Polishing Shotgun Chambers

Started by Wills Point Pete, April 07, 2006, 08:11:07 PM

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Wills Point Pete

 It is time to start one of my last projects on making my irons match worthy. I need to polish the chambers on my mule ear double.
I have read various ways of doing it, I am thinking of taping a strip of 800 grit crocus cloth to a shotgun bore brush, chucking the butt end of the brush in my electric drill and running it at a medium slow speed until things look shiney. Then following up with Flitz on a cleaning patch over a bore brush.
Anyone think of a good reason this won't work?

Hemlock Mike

I always considered Crocus cloth to be 1800 to 2000 grit.   800 might be a little heavy unless the chambers are bad.    My crocus cloth is like dust on a rag !!

Mike

Sod Buster

Quote from: Wills Point Pete on April 07, 2006, 08:11:07 PM
It is time to start one of my last projects on making my irons match worthy. I need to polish the chambers on my mule ear double.
I have read various ways of doing it, I am thinking of taping a strip of 800 grit crocus cloth to a shotgun bore brush, chucking the butt end of the brush in my electric drill and running it at a medium slow speed until things look shiney. Then following up with Flitz on a cleaning patch over a bore brush.
Anyone think of a good reason this won't work?

I've been told by more than one person to use toothpaste on a bore swab.  It has just the right amount of grit to do the job.
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Howdy Doody

I have had good luck with auto body rubbing compound. one can of the dupont slow cutting will last just about forever. I chuck up a dowel in a drill that I had cut a slot into from the end and then start with the backside of strip emery cloth, run it up and down with the rubbing compound clean and try to shuck some shells and when it is right, then go for a cloth with the rubbing compound and polish bright.
yer pard,
Howdy Doody
Notorious BP shooter

litl rooster

All of above work....You need a toothpaste that doesn't have the jells, Flitz work, rubbing compound, valve grinding compounds, just make sure you clean it out good. You might also try 0000 steel wool on a dowel rod use  a rubber band to secure it.
Mathew 5.9

klausg

Pete- I've used an old bore brush, (a new one would work, but it won't be "new" when you're done) with some steel wool wrapped around it.  I chucked the tip section of a cleaning rod into a drill and went after it with a lot of CLP for a lubricant.  This worked on an old Mossberg I had with a rough chamber; in the duck blind, if the shells were even remotely wet they tended to freeze in the chamber causing multiple expletives on my part >:(.  This trick cured the problem.  Another handy gadget I've used is a homemade stuck wad remover, just take about 2" of 1/2" copper pipe and fill it with lead; it does the trick and it's a lot easier than trying to find a stout enough stick in the middle of a marsh, FWIW.

-SSG Klaus

clehfeldt

Maybe very fine compounds are better but I have had no problems after using a 300 grit brake hone.
Carlos El Hombre
Carlos El Hombre

Laredo Crockett

Mike, I believe that Crocus cloth is available in varying grit designations.

Pumice is still available from Brownell's.

Most anything that is abrasive will do the job. If you're doing the job with a drill, be careful, check progress often as a little can go a long way particularly if using the courser abrasives. I have used Lapping Compound on several guns. Ir works-and right now-have to be careful.

Marshal Will Wingam

I polished mine with a brake hone, like Carlos mentioned. It worked great. I thought I could even improve on it so I polished it with jeweler's rouge. The hulls then started sticking so I honed it with the brake hone again and everything worked fine once more.

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Arcey

A pal ah mine, not a cowboy shooter, is a gunsmith where I deal.  He swears by this Scotchbrite stuff -



Got it on a dowel all chucked up in a slow speed drill.

Ennyways, I got some last week.  Ain't tried it yet, ain't had time.  Let ya know how it comes out when it comes out........
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Flinch Morningwood

Question 1 - Do they make a brake hone that goes down as small as a 16 Gauge?  If so, where?  I have not been able to find one.

Question B - How did the Scotchbrite pads work out???
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Deacon Will

Brownells sells a hone for the chambers using their hone oil.  They also sell a felt polishing wheel that is approx .75" in length and different diamaters.  I also purchased their diamond dust polishing compound and chucked the wheel in a variable speed battery drill.  Mirror brite.

I have used a bore bruch dipped in 'green chrome' polishing compound (2000 grit) used by knife makers to polish vlades.  Brush is chucked in drill and run bach and forth in the chamber and into the forcing cone.  This leaves a burnished surface.  Both have worked for me.  I personally would stay away from the brake hone technique as I have seen 'oblong' chambers as an inresult.

Victor Vaquero

Can I polish the bores of my Remington Spartan SPR220h SxS? I will use a
polishing compound called Met-all
Victor "El Coqui" Vaquero
RATS # 517
Marysville, Washington

Paladin UK


I use Solvol........ slow speed on a  bore mop ;)



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litl rooster

Quote from: Paladin UK on January 19, 2010, 01:53:58 PM
I use Solvol........ slow speed on a  bore mop ;)



Paladin (Whats reel pleased with his .357 ;D ) UK


Hulls stickin' n the Triumph?
Mathew 5.9

Daniel Nighteyes

Plain old Colgate toothpaste on a bore mop works quite well.  I've done two SxS's, and both are slicker than -- well, you know.  I had an extra three-piece cleaning rod, so I cut off the last four inches of the business end and screwed the mop into it.  I chucked the rod into my drill and took my time.  I find that I have to repeat the process every 12 to 18 months, depending on how much I shoot.

J.D. Yellowhammer

Quote from: Victor Vaquero on January 18, 2010, 11:24:21 PM
Can I polish the bores of my Remington Spartan SPR220h SxS? I will use a
polishing compound called Met-all

I can't speak fer your polish, but I can say that I polished the chambers of my Rem/Spartan and the shells fly out when I open and shake it.  I used Semichrome polish (same as I use on my Harley). Worked like a charm.
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jimmyb.1

Not sure if anyone has addressed the issue of when to stop.  When I did this I was using as a guide shells that had ridges on them and they took more shake to get out.  Once I realized my error and used smooth (green shooters club rem shells) I discovered that I had removed enough already and was about to go too far w/ the hone.  FWIW. 
I just used a brake cylinder hone w/ rem oil chucked in a drill that I ran very slowly.  I counted the seconds off per side to keep everything the same and as a guide.  Worked like a charm but as I said it's easy to go too far if you're not carefull.

Victor Vaquero

How do you get the butt sttock off without damaging it? It moved about 1/8th inch thats it.
Victor "El Coqui" Vaquero
RATS # 517
Marysville, Washington

Paladin UK

Fer VV........
Tuck the butt under your arm, have someone stood behind and gently pull the receiver whilst you give the butt plate a sharp whack with a rubber mallet.

Have someone else handy ta catch the pard holdin the receiver!!
;)

Paladin (What hopes he`s helped  ;) UK
I Ride with the `Picketts Hill Marshals`..... A mean pistol packin bunch a No goods

The UK`s 1st Warthog!!... Soot Lord, and Profound believer in tha....`Holy Black` 
MASTER... The Sublyme & Holy Order of the Soot (SHOTS)
  BWSS#033  SCORRS  SBSS#836L  STORM#303

Real Cowboys Shoot with BLACK POWDER!!

 Paladins Web Site

     Paladins Very Own Shotshell Loader This is an animaton so it takes a while fer the 1st page ta go..

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