Cold Blueing

[Highlander999]

Good Morning:

Well, I had a go at cold blueing a Cimarron that I bought off of Gunbroker.  The gun had blood or something on it that removed splotches of the original Satin Blue.  I took the blueing off the barrel with remover, washed it, then put the new cold blueing on.  I could never get the blueing to give off the deep rich blue luster I was looking for, rather much more "marbled" and un-even.  So, now I am either going to have to redo the cylinder and ejector rod to have the same blued look, or try re-blueing (I think I'll remove all either way, as it doesn't really match the Satin Blue).

Just wondering if anyone has ideas of what I am doing wrong in not getting a nice even color on the barrel etc.

Thanks,

Steve

[44caliberkid]

You'll never get the kind of blue out of a cold blue that you are looking for. You will have to have it hot tank blued to be satisfied.  That said, I have achieved pretty respectable results using the following.
   I use Birchwood Casey cold blue.  The spottiness is from improper surface prep. Get some cheap latex or rubber gloves and never touch the steel parts with your fingers.  Use your bluing remover and wash the parts off with water.  Then use a de-greaser/ evaporator from the paint dept. at Menards, Lowes, whatever. A greas/wax remover from an automotive paint supply will work too.
  Now you're ready to blue.  Set your oven at it's lowest setting, usually about 180 -200 degrees.  Let the parts warm up in there.  They don't need to be hot, just warm enough that they're hard to handle with bare fingers (you are wearing your gloves, right?)  Use a cotton ball saturated with the blueing solution and make fast, long swipes, always in the same direction, and cover the part as quick as you can.  Apply it several times, then let it rest 1 minute.  Take to the sink and flush with hot water.  Buff lightly with 0000 steel wool, just till the dull finish brightens up.  Dry the parts, degrease or wipe down with alchohol again, and repeat the whole process till you get the depth and even color you want.  It usually takes me 6 -8 coats to be satisfied.
  have fun.

[Hemlock Mike]

High 9 --

Try this first --

Clean the area first.  Heat with HOT water 'till you can't stand it.  Then "card" the cold blue in with 000 or 0000 steel wool real nice.  I use the cold blue from Brownells and it's great.

Mike

[litl rooster]

 A old gunsmith and friend use to have a saying about cold bluing.............................Don't


said it never matches

[Wolfcamp Hill]

howdy,

ditto whut Hemlock Mike said about the blue from brownells,  i like the oxpho blue they sell.  Also the advise about heating the parts and wearing rubber gloves is good, too.  I have reblued an entire remington 788 bolt action and it came out so good nobody knew it was cold blue.  (i removed all the old blue with blue and rust remover first)  i like to use the hot water to heat the metal.  we have an instant hot water gizzie in the kitchen sink (My bride wanted it fer Christmas)  and it works excellant for heating up a revolver frame so hot you cant hold onto it.  the bride does not know that i use it for that...

wolfcamp

[Highlander999]

Thanks guys, I appreciate it.  I know I'll never match the SATIN Blue, but I didn't like the SPLOTCHY look.  So, I'll clean the bbl again, take the ejector off and the cylinder out, and clean heat and blue them...Hopefully to match....

I think I'll leave the backstrap satin.  That mike look kinda cool.

[USCG Flyer]

Blood stains in the bluing?? Some people would pay for that you know...hey, that's an idea,"the blood stained gunfighter edition". They could sell it like the weathered look that seems to be offered by all the companies...

[Forty Rod]

Yeah, you could embed some hairs in the blood and call it your'buffaloin' gun."

[Highlander999]

Well, I did pretty much like everyone said.  I used the degreaser (all I had when I got home was gunk hand cleaner, and it worked perfect), washed it off with alcohol and then applied the blueing.  Thanks everyone... Steve

[Hemlock Mike]

Highlander --

This world has secrets unknown -- you got a few from your pards !!

Glad it all worked.  We all learn from mistakes 

Mike

[Virginia Gentleman]

I have stopped ever trying to cold blue more than a nick or scratch on my guns.  For larger parts like barrels or frames I use Belgian Blue that is available from Brownells.  Follow the directions, but basically all you need to do is degrease, boil in water, rub the solution on then reboil and rub/card the rust off with steel wool and repeat unti the correct color is acheived.  Yes, it is a bit more work, but the results are sublime even compared to hot blue.