1893 Vacation

[Colt Fanning]

I have the daily journal of a man who took a vacation by wagon from Graham Texas to Estes Park Colo. in 1893.  It describes the difficulties that they encountered, the people they met and the towns they went through.  I wonder if there is a place in the CAS world where this could be posted.
The trip took two months and the document is ten typewritten pages.

[Oregon Bill]

Colt: I'd sure read it.

[Silver Creek Slim]

This is the place to post it.

Slim

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Colt, that is definitely something worth posting. I'll read it, too. With enthusiasm.

[Doc Neeley]

I occasionally collect stampless covers and the letters are so interesting for the slice of period life they convey.

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Howdy, Colt Fanning!

By all means, if you can "copy and paste" it here, PLEASE do!

Since you wouldn't be making any money on it, I'll bet that it wouldn't involve any copywrite infringement - but I'm not a lawyer.

[Colt Fanning]

A TRIP TO COLORADO and NEW MEXICO, 1893
                            by
                       Henry P Lichte

                           JUNE
THURSDAY, 1st.  We left the Young County Nursery today
for a trip to the Rocky Mountains, for Mr. B's health, with
our camping outfit all packed in our spring wagon, drawn
by our faithful horses, Mack and Nag.  The plan is to camp
out all summer, if possible, and Mr. Cunningham is accompanying us for the first hundred miles to see that we get started right.  It took two men to put Mr. B in the wagon he was so weak.

FRIDAY, 2nd,         We camped last night on Onion creek, 7
miles south of Archer City.  A heavy storm came up from the
Northwest with some hail.  It was so furious for a short
while that Mr. Cunningham and I had to hold the wagon to
keep it from being blown away.  Storm lasted about an hour.

SATURDAY, 3rd,       Passed through Archer, and had a little refreshment while there, which came near going to my head,
only stayed a short while.  Also passed through Haliday without
stopping.  Went on to the Big Wichita, where we camped for
dinner.  Passed through Iowa Park, where we had some work
done on the wagon, and drove to Harrold, and camped at R.R. Tank for the night.

SUNDAY, 4th          Mr. Cunningham started back for Graham
this morning and we are going on by ourselves.  Mr. B. is
very weak, and has to be laying down most of the time.
Camping places are very disagreeable, as we are now on the
Prairie, and the weather is hot, and no shade to camp in.
Wood is also scarce.

MONDAY, 5th          Passed through Vernon, bought some
supplies there.  Camped for the noon one mile west of
Wheatland, along side of Railroad tank.  Went through
Chillecothe, arrived at Quannah about 3 P.M., and hunted up
Robert Henry, who formerly worked at the Young County Nursery.
He was glad to see us, and Mr. B. collected $20.00 from him.
Camped for the night one mile west of Gypsum.  There is a
cement factory at gypsum.

TUESDAY, 8th,        Got to Childress and bought a few supplies
but did not stay very long, little of interest here, so went
on and camped one mile from Esteline for the night.





        WEDNESDAY, 7th,     We are now in the breaks of the Red River
        and crossed at a very sandy place, which was very hard on
        our team.  The river is about a mile and a half wide here.
                We lost our road some how, and went several miles out of our
                way, saw lots of antelopes on the prairie, and found our way
                again without much trouble. We arrived at Memphis this evening.
                There are several Grahamites here.  Mr. B. is very feeble,
                and got his leg bruised some way so that we are unable to
        go further at present. Stopped with Walter Price, who has
        a saddle shop here, and saw a lot of Graham friends.

        THURSDAY, 8th,      Mr. B's leg is worse, and he also has
        an attack of dysentery.  Quite a number of Grahamites were
        in to see us. There are here William Beckham and family,
        Fore Bros. and families, Ike Allen and family, Lovejoy and
        family, Andy Broiles and family, and Lewis Wheat and family.
        I set up the Phonograph for the first time, and have it in
        Successful operation. Taken in $15.l5.

        FRIDAY, 9th,        Mr. B's leg seems to be worse, and looks
        as if an abscess, called in a doctor. I set up Phone
        again and made $3.60, loose nickels are getting scarce.

        SATURDAY lOth,              We have moved into a furnished room
        south of Walter Price's saddle shop, which is very nice and
        cool having a south breeze.

        SUNDAY, llth,       The sun is shinning very hot and sultry,
        but the wind keeps things cool in the shade.  Mr. B's leg
        seems to be improving a little.

        MONDAY, l2th,       I sat up Phone again, after letting it
        rest for a few days, but only realized $1.75,  I am having
        a little trouble with the diaphragm.

        TUESDAY, l3th,      Set up phone today and in the evening
        took my entertaining outfit over to Mr. Burkett Jr., and
        gave an exhibition to the wedding party of Mr. Burkett,
        of the wonders of the Phonograph.  About 10 o'clock they
        had a most excellent supper, of which I was invited to
        partake, and enjoyed same very much, as all the others seemed
        also to do.  My labors amounted to $3.00 in cash this day.

        WEDNESDAY,  14th,     Mr. B. is improving, and is now able to
    sit up, still suffering with swelled leg.  I am having it
        pretty easy and not much doing.


THURSDAY, 15th,      We had a fine rain last night, which was
very much needed, and it makes everything nice and pleasant.

FRIDAY, 16th,        I set up Phone again to gather up any
stray nickels that might have turned up in the last few days.
Result $1.10.  I am getting anxious to move on, don't want
to go back to Graham now after having started.

SATURDAY, 17th,      Put up Phone again, but just got fairly
at music making when the battery gave out, and I had to give
it up.  Took in 95 cents before the collapse.  Mr. B. is getting better, and think we will be able to move on soon.

SUNDAY, 18th,        We left Memphis today bound for Colorado.
Wm. Beckham and Lewis Wheat went as far as Giles with us,
where we nooned.  In the afternoon we drove to Capt. Newt
White's place, formerly of Graham. The family welcomed us
heartily, and we stayed all night with them.

MONDAY, 19th,        Capt. White has a beautiful place here,
good crops and plenty of cattle on it, and seems to be doing
well.  We left this morning, and arrived in Clarendon at 11 a.m.  Had dinner with Mr. Harding, an old Graham friend.  
Spent the time pleasantly with him until about 4 o'clock.
Mr. Harding gave us a very nice dog, Gyp, which is very much
appreciated.  Camped for the night several miles from Clarendon
at a R.R. tank, where four or five dirty looking tramps laid
up for the night.  They were pretty tough looking specimens
and had it not been for our guns and dog they might have
done us harm.  Our new dog will not let strangers come near
our camp without our permission.

TUESDAY, 20th,       Today we arrived at Goodnight, where Mr.
Goodnight has a large pasture with about 30 Buffaloes, a
lot of deer, antelopes, and several Moose.  We drove through
the pastures and viewed all the animals.  Reached Claude at
2 P.M. where we put up for the night.  We are now on the
plains.

WEDNESDAY, 21st,     Left Claude 7 A.M. over some of the best
roads we have had, just as level as a floor, up on the plains.
Passed through Washburn, where we got a fresh supply of water,
arrived at Amarillo 2 P.M. a 30 mile drive from Claude.  Very
hot wind blowing all day.

THURSDAY, 22nd,      Very cold last night.  Left Amarillo early
and got lost first thing after we got a few miles out of town.
We were lost all day on the plains, we have the right course
but no road to follow, camped all night on the prairie.  Don't
know where we are.


FRIDAY, 23rd,        Trying to find our way again and struck
   out across the prairie without any road, and finally came
as far as the Ft.W. & D. R. R., which we followed Northwestward.  Our road is very rough through the breaks of the Canadian River.  Arrived at the X.I.T. Ranch about night,
and met one of the cowboys at the cabin who persuaded us to
stay all night, and promised to put us on the right road the next morning which he did.  We slept all night in the cabin, which is the first time since we left Memphis.  The cowboy
cooked our meals for us, fed our horses and never charged us
a cent, although we were total strangers to him.

SATURDAY, 24th,      Passed through Tascosa today, which is one of the oldest towns in this part of the country, being settled
by the Spanish many years ago.  It is built up mostly of "Dobies" houses of the Mexican style, and most of the people here are Mexicans.  Went as far as Chaning today, and camped.
Saw Mr. Dewy here formerly of the Graham and Mineral Wells stage line, who now lives in the adjoining county.  He invited
us over to see him, but we had not the time to spare.

SUNDAY, 25th,        Drove to Hartley today, and saw James Girand, who is in business here.  Everything is very dry and hot in this place; the grass is all dried up and very short, and stock water is very scarce, had trouble to get enough for our horses.  Wind blowing like the deuce.  I wrote a letter home for Mr. B., and also one for myself to (HLM?) answer
to which I had addressed to Folsum, N.M.

MONDAY, 26th,        Were delayed here a few hours this morning
on account of the scarcity of horse feed, also bought a full
supply for ourselves.  Drove as far as Matlock, where we found
the first water since leaving Hartley, and plenty of fine grass, so we decided to camp all night for the benefit of our horses.  A R.R. Tank and a section house go to make up the population of this city.

Tuesday, 27,         Started out early this morning in order to get to Farwell by noon 18 miles away.  Arrived there just about
noon, and camped at the ranch house, which is the only one in
town.  We are now in a pasture about 60 miles square, which belongs to the Farwell Syndicate of Chicago.  It takes a train
two hours to go through this company's lands.  We met with a cold reception at the hands of the lady of the house.  We were
trying to get some milk, but were refused.  In the afternoon we
drove to Texline, which is right on the border of Texas and New Mexico, part of the town being on one side and part on the other.  Camped here for the night.
WEDNESDAY, 28th,     We are now in sight of the foothills of
the Rocky Mountains, can see them in the distance, being
about 75 miles away.  We are in N.M.  Drove to Clayton this morning, and being tired and weary have decided to rest here a day or two.

THURSDAY, 29th,      I set up phone today in Exchange Saloon,
which constitutes about the whole town, as far as money
matters go.  They have a Mexican string band playing all the
while, and gambling is the most popular past time here.
We occupied a room in the rear.  Made $5.15 today.  Another phone came up from Trinidad this evening.

FRIDAY, 30th,        Left Clayton this morning after buying
some supplies for ourselves and horses.  Met another Phonograph
outfit going to Clayton, guess the town will be full of them
after while.  Nooned at Mt. Dora.  In the evening we had a
heavy shower, and every thing being so damp and disagreeable
we sought shelter in a section house, a poor place but the
best to be had, and better than the wet ground.  We still
have prairie road, but plenty of mountains to our left, and
are crossing canyons every once in a while.


-JULY-
SATURDAY, 1st,       Left the section house early, and toward
noon found dry ground again where it had not rained yesterday,
but finally got into wet country again, and camped for noon
on a little prairie creek, which had plenty of water in it
from yesterdays shower.  After noon we traveled through
hill and dale.  The country is getting more and more Mountainous.  Arrived at Folsom, N. M. about 4 P. M.  After
buying some supplies we camped for the night.  The R. R. here makes a complete horse shoe climbing the mountain.  I received
a letter from (LM?).  Which was very welcome.

SUNDAY, 2nd,         Folsum is a small place.  Nothing like we
expected, and shall not stay here long.  We started for
Trinidad, overland, which is about 40 miles, by rail it is
75. On account of the rough roads, and the wagon road is
some of the roughest we have had, crossed Trinchere Pass,
which is well supplied with timber, even oak and pine.
After a while we got into the open country again, still
mountainous.  Broke a bolt out of our single tree just as we
were nearly at the top of the pass.  Went into a Mexican
shanty to try to get another one, as we had none along, but
only found an old Mexican woman, and she couldn't speak a word of English or I a word of Spanish.  I finally found an old piece of wire, which she gave me permission to take, but by this time she had ordered me to move on two or three times.
SUNDAY, 2nd, cont.,  We drove on a few miles and had to camp in a very hot dry place, and could see no water.  A Mexican came
and shared our dinner with us, and showed us where there was a nice spring of fresh water.  Camped at night on the San Sedra creek, which has nice running water.  Wind blew terribly all night.

MONDAY, 2nd,         Left camp early, on our way to Trinidad.
The road is prairie, with large mountains in sight.  Nooned
at a little creek under the shade of a cottonwood, and drove into Trinidad in the afternoon, the first city in Colo.

TUESDAY, 4th,        The whole city is preparing to celebrate
the 4th in real earnest, everybody is taking a holiday, and
the streets are all gaily decorated.  This is something new to us.  I set up Phone in a saloon on Main St. and took in
$5.80.  In the evening we saw the finest display of fireworks
that we have seen for some time.  Half the town is drunk.

WEDNESDAY,  5th,     Resting up today and seeing the town.
We are laying in a lot of supplies and having our laundry done.
I saw a buffalo calf auctioned off this morning for $400.00,
everybody wanted it.  I had a talk with one of the prettiest
girls I ever saw, she clerks in a fruit store.  She is a peach
and no mistake, and wants some one to take her to Denver, afraid to go by herself. Abernit.

THURSDAY,  6th,      Drove around town a while this morning,
and then started northward towards Pueblo,  camped on the hot
prairie for noon and had a Mexican to take dinner with us.
About night we arrived at a new mining town, Alguilar, and camped for the night.  Water very scarce here.

Friday,  7th,        Had some repairing done to our wagon, and
then started out again, traveling along the foothills of the Rockies on a prairie road.  Nooned at Rouse under a nice
Pine grove, the first we had seen, and decided to stay over.
This is a coal mining town, and the saloons are the whole thing
here.  Everybody uses script here and cash is very scarce.
Set up Phone and got $1.45 in cash and a lot of script.  Mr. B.
wrote a letter home, and seems to be improving quite a little.

SATURDAY,  8TH,      Heavy rain last night which was much needed
and moved into a house it got so wet.  Cloudy, cool and drizzling all day.  Drove to Walzenburg, which is a very nice
little place, with lots of shade trees. Set up Phone, $3.60.
Water is scarce here.
   


SUNDAY,  9th,        Left Walzenburgh this morning, and had a
dry drive to Huerforno creek, which was as dry as a bone, but
found plenty of water by digging a hole in the sand in which
nice clear water soon rose, and a nice grove of cotton woods
to noon under.  Passed through Greenhorn, which is near the
Green Horn Mts., where we got a supply of water, and camped
close to a lone saloon.

MONDAY,  10th,       Nooned at St. Charles Creek, and arrived
at Pueblo about 4 P.M.  Got everything settled, and took
a stroll around town by myself as Mr. B. is most too feeble
to do any running around at night.  Had some experience.
Mr. B. says Pueblo has changed considerably since he was here
23 years ago.  There seems to be some business here but
times are generally hard on account of the decrease in silver.
Lots of water melons in the market but they are very high in
price.  We had a fine lot of strawberries for supper.

TUESDAY,  11TH,      Left Pueblo this morning and camped for noon on the beautiful clear stream, La Fountain, under a nice
grove of cotton woods.  Made a Rhubarb cobbler for dinner.
We went as far as Woodbury ranch for night and camped under a fine avenue of cottonwoods, where we got some nice farm
eatables, and plenty of alfalfa and grass for our horses.
They have quite an extensive orchard here but no fruit on the
trees except cherries.

[Colt Fanning]

WEDNESDAY,  12TH,    Got about three miles on our journey
when Mack, our best horse, laid down in the harness.  He had too much alfalfa last night, and thought for a while that we were going to lose him, but finally brought him to his feet again after a couple hours of hard work, and drove on at a slow gait.  About noon we drove into a fine pasture which had some very fine grass in it for our horses, a nice campground and plenty of good water.  Pikes Peak is in plain view.  In the afternoon we drove into Colorado Springs, one of the nicest
little cities in Colorado, and the cleanest and well kept.
Bought a fresh supply of horse and other food as soon as we reached town.  This city is nicely laid out with wide streets,
and fine shade trees along the sidewalks, at the foot of which runs a ditch of clear water, making the streets cool and clean.
The water for the city is supplied from the top of Pikes Peak, and has a tremendous pressure.  It is pure snow water from the mountain.  I went to some little one-horse circus this day.

THURSDAY,  13th,     We find we need some repairing done on wagon, harness, and shoes, and I don't know what else, so we
are making a round of the repair shops.  About 10 A.M. we left
Colorado Springs and drove to Colorado City, where we nooned.

THURSDAY, 13th, cont. This afternoon we drove through the
Garden of the Gods, which is not a real garden but one of
Natural Wonders, being a great collection of wonderful formations of rocks, some being 300 feet high, others in the form of mushrooms, and some balancing on just a small corner,
etc.  About night we drove to Manitou, and found a nice campground above the city on Ute creek, about 300 yards from the springs.  There are several other camp outfits here from the East; one has a complete parlor and kitchen on wheels.

FRIDAY,  14th        I arose early this morning, and prepared to climb Pikes Peak together with a fellow camper.  Started about 7:30 with a lunch and our coats on our arms.  Everything went well the first part of our trip, but when we got a third of the way up we got hungry as bears and demolished our little lunch, which was about 10 o'clock.  About 4 o'clock we were within a half mile of the top, and so hungry we could eat most anything, but nothing to be had, as there were no houses.  Finally we found a section house where they were so condescending as to sell us some dry bread, which was very much enjoyed by both.  By 4:30 we reached the summit, two of the tiredest fellows you would want to see.  This was the hardest day's work I ever did.
Had a fine view as the Day was clear and Manitou is way down below us at the foot of the Mt.  Can see for miles around, and are up above the clouds. Also had a snowstorm here today, very cold.  My pard is so tired that he decided to go down on the train, but I walked down, which took about four hours.  Got back to camp at about 9 P.M. thoroughly tired out, and hungry as a wolf.  Slept like a log.

SATURDAY,  15th,     We are enjoying the benefit of the celebrated Manitou water today.  Late in the afternoon we started up Ute Pass, which is a very romantic drive across the main chain of the Rockies.  The Colorado Midland R. R. is on one side, and the wagon road on the other, and a swift mountain stream between them.  It is about 15 miles over the pass to the divide.  Some very fine summerhouses up the pass.

SUNDAY,  16TH,       Camped last night one mile west of Cascade,
a small mountain town, and this morning drove to the divide, where we nooned, our horses being pretty tired after 15 miles up hill work, besides the high altitude does not agree with them.  We are now about 8000 feet above sea level.  Camped for the night at Florisant under a grove of Pines.






MONDAY,  17th,       Did not stop in Florisant as we intended.
Most of the town is deserted, and half the houses are empty.
We are now in some of the finest scenic part of the Colorado
mountains and valleys.  Passed Lake George and also the south fork of the Platte.  Stopped for noon at a sheep ranch in the
southern end of South Park, Colorado, where there was a nice spring of fresh water.  South Park is nothing but a vast hay field, irrigated from the Platte River.  The whole country is simply flooded for a few days; this makes a regular breeding place for the mosquitoes, and they are worse here than any place I have ever been, the swamps of La. are not in it.  Life
would be a burden if I had to live here, although they say you
soon get used to them.  We drove late to get out of their reach, and partially succeeded.  Camped one mile west of Hartsell Station along side of an irrigation ditch.  Our horses had a good lot of fresh grass here.

TUESDAY,  18th,      The mosquitoes Made life a burden to us
all last night, slept very little.  Went through the west part of South Park, over the divide, and down Trout Creek.  I fished
for trout for a couple of hours but never landed any, and had several bites.  Trout Creek is a very swift mountain stream.
Traveled as far as 7 miles east of Buena Vista, and camped for the night at an elevation of 9000 feet.  The atmosphere was rather frosty, and had we not had plenty of clothing and wood we would have suffered.

WEDNESDAY,  19th,    This morning we drove to Buena Vista, which is one of the nicest little towns in the state, plenty of nice clear water running in every street along the curb, with plenty of shade trees.  It is on the Arkansas, which has some placer mines on it above here making the water red with clay.  We are laying in a fresh supply here, but everything is very high, as well as the altitude.  We got permission to camp for noon in an enclosure where we had nice shade and everything good on chalk creek, where we stopped until 5 P.M.  Then we went further down the Arkansas and camped for the night on Brown Creek, near a dairy, where we got plenty of milk and butter.

THURSDAY,  20th,     Still down the Arkansas, nooned on a stream that had no water in it on account of its being taken out for irrigation.  To the west we can see some mountain peaks covered with snow which fell last night.  Drove through Salida which is quite a nice little place.  All the houses are make of brick, and a nice park has been started.  Went down the Arkansas a mile and a half to the mouth of the S. Arkansas and camped.  Plenty of good fishing here, and we took advantage of it.



FRIDAY,  20th,       Went to Salida this morning and bought a lot of supplies for ourselves and team, and wen to Poncho Creek, 5 miles distant.  Poncho Creek is a dead place.  Went into Poncho Pass, which is just alongside Poncho Creek, a very swift mountain stream.  Noosed about half way up the pass, and stopped and fished for trout for a few hours, but had very little luck.  In the evening we crossed the divide and are now in the San Louis valley of the Rio Grande.  Camped for the night on a small stream near a ranch.

SATURDAY, 22nd, By 9:30 A.M. we are at Villa Grove, a very nice little valley town, with a good system of irrigation ditches, and nice shade trees on the streets.  It is raining today, and pretty cool at the same time.  Set up Phone and took in$1.50.  Bought some supplies preparing to go inland.

SUNDAY,  23rd,       Started bright and early for this morning for Saguache, 22 miles west.  Got within 4 miles by noon, and camped at a very good spring in Saguache at 1:30 P.M.  Found a very nice camping place just on the edge of town.  Got acquainted with a very nice family, Mr. & Mrs. Fairbanks.
Mr. F. is an I. O. O. F. and  Mr. B. is also one of the same flock.  They had quite a pleasant chat.

MONDAY,   24th,      Mr. F., who is a jeweler in the city, is recently from Chicago, and a good all around fellow.  This morning he furnished us with a tent, and Mrs. F. brought us out some chairs and a lot of table delicacies.  They have a nice house and invited us to stay with them, but we are out for camp life.  I set up Phone today and took in $5.30.  In the evening I went to Mr. F.'s house and treated them to a couple of hours of enjoyment on the Phone, which they appreciated very much.

TUESDAY,  25th,      This morning after bidding Mr. & Mrs. F. good by, we left Saguache for Del Norte,  nooned 12 miles out at Los Magatos right out on the hot dry prairie with no shade.
Had very fine cold water out of a well.  Drove to Lagereta for the night.

WEDNESDAY,  26th,    Arrived at Del Norte about 10 A.M. but decided to go right on through, and camped about 6 miles below on the Rio Grande and fished awhile.  Succeeded in getting a small lot, just enough to sharpen our appetite.  Stopped for the night two miles north of Monte Vista.

THURSDAY,  27th,     Drove to the suburbs of Monte Vista and
camped.  This is a very nice little valley town, and seems prosperous.  Put up Phone and made $3.95.


FRIDAY, 28th,        Started for Alamosa this morning.  Nooned
at an old deserted house where there was an artesian well and plenty of water.  This part of the valley is all cut up by large irrigation ditches, but the country is not farmed much,
being very sandy and disagreeable to live on.  Drove through Alamosa, purchased some supplies, and camped on the Rio Grande, near the city.

SATURDAY,  29th,     When we left Alamosa this morning we took the wrong road and had to go back to the city and start out new.  Going due south now through the San Louis Valley near the D. &R.G.R.R.  Nooned at La Hara.  In afternoon drove three miles inland to a Mormon town, Sanford, in the suburbs of which we got permission from a Mormon farmer to camp inside his pasture, where we had plenty of nice shade and water, and grass for our horses.

SUNDAY,  30th,       The Mormon is so good to let us stay as long as we want, and we are taking advantage of it, writing letters home, and resting ourselves and team.

MONDAY, 31st,        Drove to Sanford this morning and set up Phone, but did not get a sou, so we pulled out in disgusted, and drove to another Mormon town, Manasas. Did not stop, but went on to Conejas, an old Spanish town, and county seat of Conejas Co.  Camped at Antonita for the night.

                         AUGUST
TUESDAY, 1st,        Slow rain all day, as well as last night.
Slept in the Wagon.  Camped for night on a lonely spot where a couple of German fellows were already camping.  They were bound for Albuquerque.

WEDNESDAY,  2nd,     Had a better road this morning, but more mountainous with cedar and pines on every hand.  Nooned at Tres Piedras in company with the Germans again.  In the afternoon we left the R.R. and struck out across the country in a SE direction towards the Rio Grande.  Rained on us again.  Wolves are plentiful here even in the daytime, and I shot at several but got none.  About 4 P.M. we struck the river, which runs through a canyon here, and is about 1000 feet deep, and has a toll road across it.  The road to the bottom of the canyon is the steepest and most dangerous I have ever traveled.  The river is only 60 feet wide here, but very deep.  A Mexican pulled our leg for a dollar when we got across the river, but we would not make the trip again for 10$.




THURSDAY,  3rd,      The ascent up the east bank is up the Rio Hondo, at the mouth of which we camped last night.  It is much better going up than down the other side as it is not nearly so steep.  The scenery is fine and bountiful.  This is a very old settled part of the country.  We were shown a spot where early prospectors some 100 years ago crossed the Rio Hondo, and in order to get across the canyon they had to take their wagons apart and let them down a piece at a time with a derrick, and
the horses were let down the same way, and then hauled up again on the other side.  Up on the tableland we saw the ruins of an old brewery that had been operated many years ago.  Here we had a splendid view of the Rio Grande way down the river as well as up, and the Taos Mountains are in sight, with the tips of them in the clouds.  Crossed several nice clear streams, which are lined with Mexican doby houses and farms.  In the afternoon we arrived at Taos, one of the oldest towns in the U. s., being settled by the Spanish.  It has narrow and irregular streets and is inhabited mostly by Mexicans and Indians and very few white men.  Camped about 200 yards from the Plaza at a very fine spring of water.  Wood is scarce.

FRIDAY,  4th,        I set up Phone today, and had a good patronage from the whites, but the Indians and Mexicans are afraid of the machine that talks; it is very amusing to see them listen to it, and it is my treat pretty often.  In the evening I went to Mr. Sampson's residence (a retired bondholder) from New York who has a Mexican woman for a wife, and some very charming half-Spanish daughters, to whom I gave an entertainment with the phone.  Mr. S. has a fine place and no end of servants.  About 10 P.M. one of his daughters (Maggie) invited me into the dining room where we had an elegant lunch.
Mrs. S. is very nice but cannot speak English very fluently.  She is very much interested in the Phone, the first thing of the kind she has ever seen, and I am equally interested in her, so we are mutually interested.  After a half-hours lunch I made more music on the "Talking Machine".  Proceeds off the Phone today $15.95.

SATURDAY,  5th,      Expected to do another goods work here but our battery material gave out, so we could not.  Went out and saw the Pueblo Indian town, which is supposed to be 500 or 600 years old.  The Indians are very friendly and peaceable, and have a lot of old valuable relics in their large doby house, in which lives the chief.  In the afternoon we started for Santa Fe.  Camped on the Rio Grande in some very rough rocky ground among the cacti and sand.




SUNDAY,  6th,        Drove down the Rio Grande Canyon most of the morning, and about noon we got into open country, and nooned under a nice grove of cotton woods near the plaza.
There are some very old settlements of Mexicans here, and they have some fine apple orchards which seem to be quite old and bearing fine fruit.  We bought a pail of apples for 25 cents out of which we made an apple pie.  In the afternoon we drove through three or four Indian and Mexican villages.  Had some trouble finding a suitable camping place for the night, wood and water scarce, but Indians and mosquitoes plentiful.

MONDAY,  7th,        On account of our poor camping place we left before breakfast.  Drove over some very sandy and desolate country, and about noon we struck a little creek.  After dinner we drove into the noted town of Santa Fe, which is one of the oldest cities in the U.S.

TUESDAY,  8th,       We found a very nice camping place on Santa Fe river about two blocks from the Public Park.  Plenty of nice fresh water and shade.  Met our two German friends again.  I worked pretty hard with the battery all day, and finally got it in running order by applying new zincs, and fresh acid.  Everything is very high here.  Received some mail from Graham.

WEDNESDAY,  9th,     I set up Phone today in a drugstore on the Plaza, but did very little.  This city is built on the Old Spanish plan with very narrow streets, and most of these are as crooked as a dog's hind leg.  All the government buildings are here, and also a very fine Catholic Church, also the Government Barracks with two companies of soldiers.  Mr. B. is a little blue as he is not feeling well, and we were out about $20.00 expenses with no income.

THURSDAY,  10th,     We left Santa Fe this morning and passed through some very nice country with lots of nice farms and fields.  Had our dinner under a very fine grove of Cottonwoods at an old deserted mining town, Bonanza.  In the afternoon we traveled through very hilly country covered with prospectors and miners shafts and tunnels.  Went through Los Cerillas where some fine smelting works are situated; now shut down and out of use on account of the Silver scare, which has paralyzed the mining interests here.  Arrived at Cerillas, which is a very nice little village on the A.T.&S.F.R.R., and is supported by the coal mines.  After doing town we drove two miles further to Waldo and camped.