action goodies

[KWK]

So, I've got a '66 on backorder and am looking at bits to slick it up.

How do the SliX and the Pioneer lifter/lever springs compare? How effective is the Pioneer Coil Mainspring? Or should I first try whittling down the factory springs?

Any other tricks to buy? 

[Abilene]

Tricks?  Don't need no tricks.  Just a screwdriver. 
https://www.davidscottharper.com/shoot/PoorMan.htm

[Coffinmaker]

  KWK

First, a DISCLAMER:  AS a retired Gunplumber, I completely disagree with running screws "loose."  Either do the job right, or don't do it at all.

I personally think the Slix lever side springs are just fine.  A little fitting but simple.  I don't personally care for the Pioneer lever side springs.  The Pioneer Coil Main conversion works quite well.  You will need to fit the Butt Stock to clearance though.

Now you have to decide just what you want.  Do you want a Top Tier competition rifle or just tweaked a bit??  Like in auto racing, SPEED costs MONEY.  In some cases, lots of money.  there is also no real "one stop" shop.  You will need to shop around and prepare yourself for a hefty Credit Card bill.

If you are conversant with "Spring Grinding 101" whittling down the OEM springs can work quite well.  If you're not real conversant with spring grinding 101, first order up replacement lever side springs and Main Springs as you will need them somewhere along the line.  Then there is reducing the firing Pin Return Spring and perhaps an extended Firing Pin.  The ubiquitous Sort Stroke kit.  Extra light Aluminum or Titanium Carrier Block.  Lots of opportunity to clean out the Piggy Bank.  Just remember:  Gunz-r-Fun 

[KWK]

Thank you gentlemen.

I don't plan to race this thing. I've handled a race 73 at the club once, and I really liked the super smooth cycling of it. A tricked out Marlin felt loose in comparison, although I think the Marlin is a superior design overall.

On your advice, I will first play with the factory springs and shimming, etc. Abilene, I have a copy of the 1875 Winchester catalog as well. I didn't have the best luck playing with loosening screws on my original 73, but perhaps this Uberti will work better in that regard.

Since I plan to be shooting subsonic only, I do plan to buy the carrier for the 45 Cowboy and see how I like that. That shop also had all the other bits on offer, so I was tempted to combine an order if the parts were desirable.

[Coffinmaker]

  KWK

ACTUALLY, you originally asked about "goodies" for your rifle.  If you're not concerned with being in the top tier, the absolute biggest BANG for YOUR BUCK is a good "Action Job."  In fact, without a good action job, a short stroke just make the rifle hard to run. 

I still have to recommend after-market side lever springs unless you well know how to grind springs.  Same same with the Main Spring and replacing the firing Pin Return Spring with a lighter one on cutting down the OEM return spring.  With just those changes and some judicious rubbin-n-buffin, it's amazing how fast a toggle link rifle can run.    Not "quick" but very fast.  You will want a "lever wrap" to ease the pain from the finger lever   

[KWK]

Rubbin' and buffin' I'm familiar with on revolvers, and I certainly plan on that. I've never narrowed a a flat spring but have read how it's done, so I will try it, but just to get a quick fix, I'll likely get the Slix springs going right off.

The Pioneer Coil Main conversion works quite well. You will need to fit the Butt Stock to clearance though. -- How much wood has to be hogged out with that? Are there other makes of mainsprings out there? I see Sure Hit makes lighter flat springs for the 1873, but I didn't see one for the 1866. And there's the lock-washer shimming to try.

This should be fun.

[Coffinmaker]

  Hey There Hi There Ho There

For the Pioneer conversion, you'd be taking about 1/4 inch out of the lower tang area of the Butt Stock.  I would be more inclined to try the replacement Main Spring from Sure Hit first.  The Sure Hit is a simple "remove and Replace" as opposed to gouging out wood.  Just so you know, the internal parts for Uberti Toggle Link are EXACTLY the same throughout their line.  What fits the 1873 also fits the 1866 and the Henry.

You will notice, the Slix Lever Side Spring are correctly shaped at the rear to fit the frame correctly as opposed to the OEM springs which NEED to be reshaped BEFORE being reduced.  With the reduced Main Spring I would also recommend (strongly) an after-market firing pin and reduced firing pin return spring.   

[KWK]

The Sure Hit main spring is labeled 1873, but in looking at the Uberti factory site the same mainspring is indeed used for both the 1873 and the 1866. So, I'll try those first. I'm almost surprised. The stock angle isn't the same on the two, so I figured the lower tang would be enough different to require a different mainspring. Perhaps they adjusted the hammer locations to match.

Regarding the firing pin, can one just remove a coil from the factory return spring, or is a new spring needed? Slix does sell a pin and spring kit which they say will require a bit of fitting, which I'm willing to try.

[Coffinmaker]

  KWK

There isn't enough difference in the geometry to really make a difference. I have been out of the business long enough to be pushing my feeble Gnat like memory.  I'll drop down to the shop tomorrow and fire up the heater so I can drop a '73 Main Spring into a '66 and report back.  The '73 spring is shaped slightly different to allow for the Trigger Block Safety stuff.

Actually, NO.  One coil won't do it for the Firing Pin return Spring.  The spring ned cut to be slightly over 5/8th of an inch.  You want it to return the firing pin but not "stall" it.  The Slix kit for the firing pin and spring is worth the money.  You want the pin "fit" so the nose of the pin is flush with the Breach Block Face when the Extension Rod has NO tension.

[Coffinmaker]

  KWK 

Well, here is my day later and day late.  Anyway, I remembered part of the answer, just not ALL of the answer.  SO:  An 1873 Main Spring will fit (sort of) in an 1866.  However, the bend pattern is entirely WRONG.  Even OEM, there is NOT enough tension on an 1873 spring to run an 1866.  Nope.  Fits, just doesn't work.  SO: Iff you want a lighter 1866 Main Spring you're gonna have to grind yer own, unless there is someone out there making them that I don't know about.  Of course, I haven't paid any attention to "who flung dung" since I retired.  At one time "The Smith Shop" was making lighter springs but he has retired also.  Best of Luck.

[Abilene]

Uh...the Uberti main spring is the same part for Henry, '66, '73.  P/n 200020, same for all.

For KWK, VTIgunparts.com is listing an aftermarket main spring (again, same one for all toggle-links) from a company called F&D.  I don't know who that is, but they list two, "smooth action main spring" and "Extremely Light Action Mainspring" which says watch your ammo and Federal primers suggested. 
They also list the Smith Shop spring but says Discontinued.

[KWK]

Elsewhere I found some comments the Sure Hit mainspring didn't give enough strike in an 1866, which goes along with what Coffinmaker found (thank you for testing it).

This creates a mystery, since as Abilene points out, the Uberti part number is the same for the mainsprings on the 1866 and the 1873. I noticed this a few days ago in looking at the Uberti factory site, and I see today Taylor's site says the same.

I also noticed Taylor's sells a modified factory mainspring of reduced tension, so I'll pick one up to try when my carbine arrives, since I plan to visit Taylor's this week.

Thank you both, again.

[Abilene]

KWK, let us know if that main spring says F&D. 

[Coffinmaker]

  Well 

While the same part number may be listed for 1873 and 1866 Main Springs, they are NOT the same.  As I mentioned for KWK, the 1873 Main Spring will fit the 1866, the bend profile is sufficiently different, it will NOT work in the 1866 nor Henry.  I did NOT however, try the 1866 Spring in an 1873.  Should have I suppose.  Lazy and the shop was KOLD!!!