For "them as runs" Uberti 1860s ...

[Oregon Bill]

I've been reading posts and watching Youtubes on correcting all the grievous ills of the Uberti percussion revolver until I am blue in the face and fairly confused. Don't have the money or the time to have them corrected by a pistolsmith, or the tools to complete a Pettifogger fix, so here is what I propose to do: degrease, clean and re-oil with Ballistol, break all surfaces, deburr and "de-fang" the hammer safety notch to reduce cap-sucking, per Mike/Duelist54 using an Arkansas stone. Install Slixshot nipples. Commit armed robbery to secure a small supply of caps. 
I may consider dropping a 5mm washer or two down the arbor hole to pay homage to the notorious Uberti short arbor issue.
Then I will just shoot the danged things and hope for an outcome that isn't totally humiliating. Sound like a plan?

[DeaconKC]

Sounds good! Run that beast!

[Cheyenne Logan]

  You'll be fine.

[Crow Choker]

Bill, If yer talking about a 5mm split washer I was never impressed in their use. Sometimes the thickness was to much and didn't care for the springiness of using them. I've found very satisfactory success using four thicknesses of brass washers the approx diameter of the arbor, selecting the right combination of washers to take up the space if the arbor was to short. I even thinned a few down on a whetstone to get the proper combination. Works very well, just remember they may come out when dismantling the revolver and stick em back in.

[Coffinmaker]

  Oregon Bill
Please allow me to simplify.  The first step with a Uberti, is correcting the abysmal Barrel to Arbor fit.  Two simple, cheap, no skill required methods.  First up is a #10 Stainless Split washer down the Barrel bore.  Shove the gun together and install the wedge.  You may have to re-fit the wedge by rubbing the flat side on a file or 220 Sandpaper.  Next up is Crow Choker's solution with brass flat washers.  Next up is a correct thickness brass flat washer, fit to the end of the Arbor with JB Weld.  Fixing the fit will cure a lot of ills.  THEN:

Clean up the internals.  You may find a lot of "rough".  Some judicious rubbin-n-buffin with either 400 or 600 grit wet/dry onna stick will work wonders.  Pay particular attention to the Hammer Channel.  Don't want drag.  Slix Shot nipples.  You're already de-fainging the hammer nose.  You may also want to consider a lighter Main Spring.  The OEM Main Spring actually belongs under a Dodge Ram.  I would suggest a Wolff main Spring and a nice wire Trigger/Bolt spring.

Use BP compatible Lube.  I suggest Mobil 1 synthetic, 20/40.  If you need grease, Mobil 1 Grease.


I forgot to include, when using JB Weld, be sure to lightly coat the Bore in the Lug with a releasing agent.

This is all maybe a couple hours quality time with your gun.  Then go shoot the heck out of it.

For cleaning and pampering, I recommend PAM.  PAM is an acronym for equal parts Hydrogen Peroxide, Denatured Alcohol and Murphy Oil Soap.  Put it inna Little spritz bottle and keep it out of direct sunlight.  The hydrogen peroxide doesn't lay well with sunlight.

[Oregon Bill]

Thankee Coffinmaker. This simplifies matters. I am somewhat baffled by petroleum-based oils --even synthetics -- being compatible with BP fouling, but perhaps the conventional wisdom has fallen by the wayside.

[Coffinmaker]

  Ah Bill

Petroleum based lubricants have never played nice nice with Black Powder.  The bestest synthetics have no petroleum anything to interact with BP.  Atz why I recommend Mobil 1 goodies.  True synthetics with no petroleum.  You will be amazed at how far a quart of Mobil 1 20/50 will go.  I've been working on a quart for at least 5 years now.  The tube of grease, same same.  A single tube of Mobil 1 Grease is actually a lifetime supply.  Happy Trails