Swedish Rolling Block Incoming

[DeaconKC]

Okay guys, I'm getting a Swedish Rolling Block in 12.7x44R. Sportered already, but the bore looks good in the pics. From what I understand the .500 S&W brass and dies will work for this, so does anyone here have any experience with this?
Thanks

[Tascosa Joe]

I have a twin to yours and it shoots like a dream. Original sporter sights dead on at 167yds. I bought my brass from Buffalo Arms, the first batch were made from 348 Win, the 2nd batch was from 50 Alaskan.  I use a 450 gr .512 from buffalo arms, 67gr 2F GOEX compacted and a Winchester Lg Rifle primer.   It uses 50-70 dies.

[Cap'n Redneck]

I can confirm that .500 S&W cases and dies will NOT work.
(.500 S&W cases will disappear down the chamber, get stuck in the forcing-cone and have to be knocked out from the muzzle end with a sturdy cleaning rod. Yep; been there, done that.)
.50 Alaskan cases is the way to go; just cut to length, trim, then fireform.
Be aware that some of these Swedish Rolling Blocks have had their chambers reamed to .50-70 Gov't. in modern times. 
A .50-70 cartridge is just a little to long & fat to fit an original 12,7x44 chamber.
So if a stock .50-70 case does fit your chamber you know you have "a Swede with an American upgrade"...!
.50-70 dies will do the trick, so will .56-50 Spencer-dies in a pinch...
If using reduced loads of blackpowder, try filling the air-space between powder and bullet with sesame seeds for added lubrication.

[Hair Trigger Jim]

Deacon, on the off chance you check this forum before the other one, AlOvera just posted some .50-70 dies for sale on the SASS Wire.

[Tascosa Joe]

My Swede will almost chamber a 50-70, but it lacks about 1/8th inch going all the way in and the rim is way too thick.

[Pay Dirt Norvelle]

I'm glad I ran into this thread as I have a Swede Rolling Block sitting in my safe that I really haven't looked at. This will make me get going.

[Cap'n Redneck]

My Swede will almost chamber a 50-70, but it lacks about 1/8th inch going all the way in and the rim is way too thick.

There is a way around this. 
First turn down the outer diameter of the .50-70 rim to fit the Swedish chamber.
(you can test-fit this by inserting the case, rim first.)
Now; the .50-70 case will be to fat just ahead of the rim to fully chamber.
Full-length sizing in a standard .50-70 die will not suffice.
I found that the full-length sizing die of my LYMAN .56-50 Spencer die-set is just the required amount tighter.
However, you will need to use a good case-lube (I prefer Redding Imperial Sizing Die Wax) and insert the case fully. 
It will need to sit on top of the shellholder instead of in the shellholder.
So remove the decapping unit from the die beforehand.
You will now have to knock the fully sized case out of the die with a suitable rod and a hammer.
Finally trim the sized case to fit your chamber.
I've done this with Starline .50-70 brass.
 
I'm thinking it would also work with Starline .50-90 brass, although you would probably have to rough-cut the 2,5" case to a tad over 1,75" (45mm) before sizing to avoid it being crumpled inside the .56-50 Spencer die.

Note: this was accomplished in my LYMAN .56-50 Spencer full-length sizing die. 
I cannot vouch for the results using other brands of dies...
Starline's .50 Alaskan cases remain the path of least resistance.