11 degree forcing cone reaming kit

Started by Yakima Red, September 25, 2023, 12:25:03 AM

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Yakima Red

Hello all, Looking to buy a 11 degree forcing cone reaming kit. Brownell's is perpetually out of stock and Manson has quit making them (for now). I seek to buy, not rent as I wish to add this to my bench.
Director, Colters Hell Justice Committee WSAS.
Wyoming Single Action Shooters.
SASS, NCOWS, NRA Life Endowment.
Certified NRA Firearms Instructor.
2008 NRA Wyoming volunteer of the year.
Creator of miracles.
"Let us then...under God, trust our cause to our swords. ~Samuel Adams


Niederlander

I'm getting a little fed up with the perpetually out of stock thing myself.
"There go those Nebraskans, and all hell couldn't stop them!"

Sandlapper

I'm no machinist, but is that reamer designed to be used by hand or on a lathe? Thanks, Sandlapper

kwilliams1876

If you have access to a lathe these are easy to make and you can put a pilot on. Use tool steel and hand file the flutes then harden. I had to re cut my Uberti Scholfield this way.

Niederlander

It's a hand tool.  Found one on an auction site.  Now I'm just waiting to get the cylinder back so I can adjust the cylinder gap and cut the forcing cone.
"There go those Nebraskans, and all hell couldn't stop them!"

Sandlapper

What are the main advantages to performing this operation on, say a Uberti percussion (Colt) revolver? Thanks, Sandlapper

Coffinmaker


:) Sandalapper  ;)

Oft, the forcing cone on many, not just Uberti, barrels is very abrupt and short.  this causes (maybe) some projectile upset and leading before the projectile enters the bore.  An 11 degree forcing cone eases this transition and contributes (maybe) to better accuracy and less (maybe) leading.  It can also partially compensate for a slight miss-alignment between cylinder throat and barrel bore.

While not necessarily a necessity, it is a "Good thing" (quote Martha).

Niederlander

I intend to do my percussion revolvers, too.
"There go those Nebraskans, and all hell couldn't stop them!"

Coffinmaker


:) Oh Heck  ;)

I forgot to include.  An 11 degree forcing cone is just something I have always done, as a little insurance, for most every hand gun I have worked on.  It does no harm and I don't have to go back and do it later.

Niederlander

How do you tell if the forcing cone is the right depth on a .36?  I've got plug gauges for .44 and .45.
"There go those Nebraskans, and all hell couldn't stop them!"

Sandlapper

Thanks for the explanation; that makes perfect sense. Sandlapper

Sandlapper

I also, like Niederlander, wonder how far in you should ream the cones on varying calibers and models of percussion revolvers. How do you know how far to go with the reamer? Sandlapper

Coffinmaker


:) Well  ;)

A fair rule of thumb is to cut the Forcing Cone so it extends back to the original cut at the Breach of the Barrel Bore.  All we are trying to do is align the projectile for its trip thru the Tunnel after all.  I don't think I have ever seen a reference stating the forcing cone should be X and Such thou deep. 

Sandlapper

That makes perfect sense; you can tell I'm no machinist. Thanks, Sandlapper

Niederlander

I like to use the Brownells plug gauges to get the correct depth.  I don't have one for the .36 bore, though.  The one for .45's should work for percussion .44's since the bore size is the same.
"There go those Nebraskans, and all hell couldn't stop them!"

Yakima Red

Coming back to this, I'm ordering the reamer and the lap which does both the .38's and the .45's. I have all the other tools to make it happen. The dedicated kit would have been great. But alas, they seem to be perpetually out of stock.
Director, Colters Hell Justice Committee WSAS.
Wyoming Single Action Shooters.
SASS, NCOWS, NRA Life Endowment.
Certified NRA Firearms Instructor.
2008 NRA Wyoming volunteer of the year.
Creator of miracles.
"Let us then...under God, trust our cause to our swords. ~Samuel Adams

RattlesnakeJack

I got my Uberti S&W "Russian Model" revolver a few years ago in a private deal from a chap who had never fired it (having gotten it from a friend who didn't like it.)   When I first shot it, I found that it "spit back" quite unmercifully ... so bad that lead tracks were forming back along the outer sides of the cylinder ...  :o

Upon examining it, I discovered that it had no forcing cone at all ... the literally right-angled rear face of the barrel was shaving lead to an alarming degree and back-pressure was blowing a lot of it back toward me.  I have no idea how much was going sideways ... but I sure wouldn't want to be standing off to the side!

At any rate, I was able to get a forcing cone kit from Brownells, and it has certainly made a world of difference ...
Rattlesnake Jack Robson, Scout, Rocky Mountain Rangers, North West Canada, 1885
Major John M. Robson, Royal Scots of Canada, 1883-1901
Sgt. John Robson, Queen's Own Rifles of Canada, 1885
Bvt. Col, Commanding International Dept. and Div.  of Canada, Grand Army of the Frontier

Niederlander

Grant, a friend of mine here had the same thing happen with his Schofield.  Fortunately, he already had the kit to fix it.  Makes you wonder who was working QC there.
"There go those Nebraskans, and all hell couldn't stop them!"

Cholla Hill Tirador

Quote from: Sandlapper on November 25, 2023, 07:30:41 AM
What are the main advantages to performing this operation on, say a Uberti percussion (Colt) revolver? Thanks, Sandlapper

A before and after. I cut the forcing cone with an 11° cutter then fire-lapped the barrel.


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