Length of strap for woven bullet loops

[PAMuzzleshooter]

Does anyone have a suggestion on how to figure what length strap to use for woven bullet loops? 
While we're on the subject...how to measure if one wants to punch a hole or a design that would fall on center of loop?

Thanks.

[Johnny McCrae]

Don't know if this will help but I mockup a sample using the actual case and measure the length. It's a crude method but it works for me. I'm sure there are some easier ways to figure out the length needed.

Attached is a drawing I made many years ago.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

John's illustration is a great way to calculate what you need. It takes into consideration any possible variables in type of leather, thickness of loop leather, belt thickness and case size.

[PAMuzzleshooter]

Thanks guys.

Great display.  I was wondering if you could glue with Barge between the loops.

How would you do that?  Weave the whole strap then glue or glue as you weave?

[Johnny McCrae]

I glue as I weave. In other words, I weave the loop through the slot then insert a case and adjust the tension. I then apply some Barge to lock the loop in place. I give the Barge time to set then repeat the process. It takes longer this way but retains the tension set in the loop.

[PAMuzzleshooter]

Thanks, Johnny.  Does the damp strap pose a problem for the glue?

[Johnny McCrae]

Yes. I'm guessing that Barge might not
adhere to a damp strap. Whenever I do any loop assem
bly, both the loop strap and belt are bone dry.

[PAMuzzleshooter]

Ok, thanks again.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

In certain circumstances, you can glue wet leather. When we made surcingles at the saddle shop, we covered the handles with leather. We put glue on the steel handle and on wet leather. Then we molded and stitched the leather on, forming and stitching as we went. Lastly, we buried the stitches under the leather by molding it over with a hammer. The handles then dried overnight and were quite solidly covered the next day. That method only worked because the leather was held securely until the glue and water dried out. That could work on a belt with woven cartridge loops but only if you stitched or riveted the strap at the glue point. Then, of course, there would be no need for the glue in the first place.

[Rube Burrows]

With 4-5 oz leather I find that having 2.5" per cartridge usually works perfect giving you just a little left over. I use that for 45 and for 38.

[PAMuzzleshooter]

Rube,  that would work for a general length, but it would probably not work for preplanning a design or hole in the center of each loop. 

[Marshal Will Wingam]

If you're going to punch decorative holes in the loops, can they be punched after the belt is completed?

[PAMuzzleshooter]

Maybe with a dowel rod?  But if you want to stamp a design (diamond, etc.) it may not work too well on the curve.

[Hair Trigger Jim]

You might be able to flatten one side of a dowel, or even make it kind of triangular (or flat?) to maximize the size of a flat.  You might have to taper the end so you can still insert it.  Just a thought.

[PAMuzzleshooter]

I've seen it done.  I did it once but with sewn loops so it was easier.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Maybe with a dowel rod?  But if you want to stamp a design (diamond, etc.) it may not work too well on the curve.

You might be able to flatten one side of a dowel, or even make it kind of triangular (or flat?) to maximize the size of a flat.  You might have to taper the end so you can still insert it.  Just a thought.

Hair Trigger is on the right track. It could be made out of just about anything. Wood, plastic, metal, etc. as long as it has a flat side on it for the stamp to make an impression against.

Also, I'd only wet the strap enough to take an impression without stretching out of shape.

[PAMuzzleshooter]

Thanks for the suggestions.

[Rube Burrows]

Rube,  that would work for a general length, but it would probably not work for preplanning a design or hole in the center of each loop.

Yeah. I missed the part about the holes.