Skidmore's A Step Further

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I mentioned this in another thread and thought I'd do a quick post about it. When a project is completely finished (and wet molded if called for) the very last thing I do is apply a couple coats of Skidmore's Leather Cream. When the second coat is soaked in it's recommended that you buff it with a soft cotton cloth. At that point, the project is finished but sometimes I like to see a few more highlights in the leather so I take it one step further. I burnish the whole thing with a clean piece of typing (printer) paper. The result is just a slight increase in the sheen so it catches the light a little better. This is certainly not needed on all projects but I do find it useful on leather that doesn't have a lot of decoration on it. Here are a few examples as best I can represent with photos. The difference is subtle but noticeable.

These are burnished with paper for the final step:







Not burnished with paper:

[1961MJS]

Hi
I hope this is helpful.  I tooled a 1 1/4 inch belt using Barry King Size 1 (smallest) Border: Hourglass Serpentine Smooth and used EVOO and Skidmore's.  The very small, and pointed tooling had dried Skidmore's in it when the Skidmore's dried on the belt.  I used Saddle Soap and an old tooth brush to get it out.  It's drying as I type.  The Border: Serpentine Size 3/4 (Second smallest single post) didn't result in the same problem.  It IS winter in Exciting Oklahoma, so maybe it dried differently, but I'd steer clear of Skidmore's on very detailed tooling.
later

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I've never had that problem with Skidmore's. I put a couple very light coats on, with time in between for the first coat to soak in thoroughly. I don't put EVOO on it if I'm using Skidmore's, either. Perhaps the EVOO prevented the Skidmore's from soaking in. At least you got it done. You have a photo of that belt? It sounds interesting.

[Johnny McCrae]

On most of the Holsters I've made, I would put 3-4 coats of Pure Neets Foot Oil to get the desired color then follow up with 2-3 coats of Skidmore's. I made sure that the Neets dried thoroughly between coats. Never had a problem but most of my work only had border stamping, not fine tooling.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

That's a handsome holster, John. Whatever you're doing, it works good.

[Major 2]

It was Johnny, that turned me on to Skidmore's well more than a decade ago.
He even sent me my first small sample jar Skidmore's used to offer.
I'm not the holster smiths' you craftsmen are, but Skidmore's has been my final finish since way back then.
I use it on my own vintage milsurp collectable's & the museums items, and I often suggest it to others.

[Major 2]

some more, I like the product both for finial finish on new leather and preservation of vintage leather.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Those do look good, Major. Thanks for all the photos.

[1961MJS]

Hi
Fortunately, the Saddle Soap and tooth brush idea worked fine.  I've since put another coat of EVOO on the "crusty" one.  The first attachment is a size 1 hourglass Serpentine from Barry King.  Note the corners of each stamp.  Some of the hourglasses were completely crusty with Skidmore's Leather Cream.

The second picture is from a Serpentine border in size 3/4.  I've made several of these and none got crusty during finishing.  The size 3/4 single is a bit too large for a 1 1/4 belt and I'm ordering a size smaller for the smaller belts. 

Later

[Marshal Will Wingam]

That meander stamping looks really good on a belt. I like it. Do you go around the billet or let the design carry straight off?

[1961MJS]

That meander stamping looks really good on a belt. I like it. Do you go around the billet or let the design carry straight off?

Hi Marshal,
No billet as on a money belt.  I carry the border just past the first hole to attach the buckle though.  I figured that there was no sense in decorating the part that would be covered by the buckle and would possibly make that part of the belt weaker.
Later

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Hi Marshal,
No billet as on a money belt.  I carry the border just past the first hole to attach the buckle though.  I figured that there was no sense in decorating the part that would be covered by the buckle and would possibly make that part of the belt weaker.
Later

That makes sense. Thanks.

[1961MJS]

Hi Marshal
This is what they look like.  The Buckles are from Parsley Brass.  I've made a lot of Indian War belts for some guys around Oklahoma.
https://parsleysbrass.com/
Later

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Thanks for the link. That's a fine belt design. I daily wear a buckle design that works much like those.

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

You're all showing some fine work, just shows to, that you can't go wrong with Skidmores Leather Cream, I've been using it since 2006, when it was suggested by Cowboy WC

[Johnny McCrae]

You're all showing some fine work, just shows to, that you can't go wrong with Skidmores Leather Cream, I've been using it since 2006, when it was suggested by Cowboy WC

It was Ten Wolves who put me on to Skidmores many years ago. Skidmores is one of the many great tips I've received here on the Leather Shop Forum throughout the years.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

It was Ten Wolves who put me on to Skidmores many years ago. Skidmores is one of the many great tips I've received here on the Leather Shop Forum throughout the years.

And listening to you two and a couple others here got me to try it.