Trigger/Sear Arm misalignment TTN Hammer Coach

[Diamond Jake]

I'm not sure if this should go in Shotguns or Gunsmithing, but here goes.

I've got an early (3 digit serial number) TTN Coach gun.  The right hammer will occasionally lock in full cock and won't release until I remove the lock.  The trigger just flops loosely forward and back, as the arm slips beside the plate that pushes up when you pull the trigger. The arm that gets struck by the trigger to release the hammer sear doesn't quite line up; either the arm is too short or the trigger plate too far to one side.  (The left side lock arm covers the trigger plate and extends about 1/16" beyond.)

I don't see how I can inset the lock or move the triggers to one side, since the parts are positions and screwed tightly to the action.

Has anyone else experienced this problem, and what would be a recommended fix?  I thought of somehow adding material to the arm to make it longer.  I tried supergluing a shim on the trigger plate, and that worked for awhile, but the glue didn't hold long.  Maybe use JBWeld or something similar?

[Pettifogger]

Not sure of your skill level or what tools you have.  Since this is an old gun and only does this occassionally it sounds like the parts are close to working.  You could take the sear out of the gun and put it into blocks or some sort of fixture to clear the pins on the side and bend it a little.  You could remove the right side trigger and set it in a vise with the top part of the trigger in the vise and bend the flat of the trigger over a bit.  Or solder or screw a plate on the side of the trigger.  The parts are getting hard to get and if they break might be hard to replace.  If it were me I think I would carefully measure where the sear arm is in relation to the trigger and drill and tap the trigger and install a filister head screw so it will contact the sear arm when the trigger is pulled.

[Diamond Jake]

Not sure of your skill level or what tools you have.  ...

Thanks for the reply and the pics.  The top edge of the plate in the bottom pic, where the arm hits it, is slightly worn and there are marks where the trigger arm rubs the sides when it gets out of place.  I built a couple muzzle loaders many decades ago, and my toolset is very minimal.  I don't even have a solder gun, and haven't done soldering since high school shop class.  I want to avoid anything that might wreck those hard-to-replace parts, so I think I'll go with adding a shim to the rightside trigger plate.  My buddy has a solder set for making jewelry, so I'll ask him to tackle it.

[Pettifogger]

You don't want a soldering iron.  If your friend is into jewelry making and has a small torch you want to use solder with at least a little silver in it.  Something like Brownell's High Force 44.