Parts differences between an original Remington 1890 and a Uberti replica?

[Virginia Gentleman]

If you had a frame and a barrel of an original Remington 1890, what parts would absolutely be original Remington and what parts world work from a Uberti replica?

[hellgate]

The Uberti screws are all going to be metric whereas I'd expect the originals are standard thread. That would be a problem. If you can get a screw set then most of the internal parts ought to be fittable (trigger, springs, hand, bolt etc.) As to the hammer, cylinder, cylinder pin, & ejector I don't know.

[Virginia Gentleman]

So either change the threads on the screws or change the threads on the gun itself?

[Kent Shootwell]

Always alter the minor parts, rethread the screws.

[Niederlander]

Dixie Gun Works supposedly has a couple of the screws for originals.  Another option would be to find a machinist to make them for you.  Might be worth asking places such as S & S Firearms if they have what you need.  Sometimes parts places have a few parts they don't have enough of, or enough demand for, to advertise.

[LongWalker]

Dixie Gun Works supposedly has a couple of the screws for originals.  Another option would be to find a machinist to make them for you.  Might be worth asking places such as S & S Firearms if they have what you need.  Sometimes parts places have a few parts they don't have enough of, or enough demand for, to advertise.

Or someone who knows enough to be able to find screws with the correct threads that can be re-purposed for your current project.  S&S was able to help me put together a Portugese cigar-box gun (all the action parts were loose in a cigar-box, and all the screws were missing) despite having no parts that were actually from or for the Portugese gun. 

[Undertaker18]

The cylinder pin on an original is quite different and a smaller diameter than the reproductions.  With that said even if the cylinder fit in the area, the pin would not fit through the frame.   

You could turn down the rod (pin) so it would fit the ejector housing, through the frame and into the recoil shield, but how would you reduce the diameter of the hole through the cylinder unless you added a bushing of some sort.

A lot of machining.  Do you have a photo of your frame, is it stripped or are some parts intact.

I have used reproduction main springs and bolt (cylinder stop) as replacements but the bolt needed a lot of fitting.  The hand assembly would also need extensive re-contouring to get the pistol to time correctly (longer and fatter than the original.  Also softer metal....