71-72 Uberti Open Top Problem

[Rube Burrows]

Having an issue with an older 71/72 Open Top revolver. I'm guessing it's a wedge problem. The original wedge is too loose. Put a different one in and it binds down in some places. One or two times the hammer will cock easy and then it will be nearly impossible to cock with one hand.

Any ideas on what I can do to fix the issue ?

It's a well used gun but a beauty that I don't want to give up on.

If I can't get it, who's a good smith I can see about fixing it?

[Professor Marvel]

Greetings My Dear Monsieur Burrows

Firstly you will probably want this in the STORM  area rather than the Leather shop    but no worries, we will work it out

Second, is this a C&B or Cartridge open top?

Third, is it Uberti?

This exact problem is common in Uberti's and is the result of a "too short" arbor.

the simplest fix is to clean out the arbor hole extremely well and  a #10 spilkt washer dropped down the hole.
once this is in the STORM forum Coffin or Goon or Larsen or whatsisname will probably be all over this on your behalf.

Can you tell we are a helpfull bunch?

yhs
prof marvel

[Major 2]

I've asked the Mods to move it to Storm
but the Prof has just answered to question 

[45 Dragoon]

Rube, the Perfessor is right. The arbor is too short and the better fix would be to drop a couple of flat washers in the arbor hole. Then measure the space where the frame and barrel lug are supposed to meet. Subtract that from the total of the washers and that will be close to how thick a single spacer needs to be.

Mike

[Coffinmaker]

  HEY RUBE !! 

PLUS ONE for the Perfesser and Dragoon !!

Uberti Open Top reproductions (ALL of 'em) suffer from "Short Arbor Syndrome".  Because the Arbor is too short, when the wedges starts to seat, it tilts the barrel breach back and into the Cylinder Face.  Because the cylinder face isn't square it becomes VERY TIGHT is some spots if not ALL.

Once you have correct spacing, you will then need to "fit" a wedge correctly.

Stupid People are still Hazardous to yer Health

[Marshal Will Wingam]

The idea is to get it set up so the wedge secures the arbor against the bottom of the arbor hole in the barrel rather than just jamming the barrel against the frame or cylinder. If the wedge forces the barrel against the frame, the tighter it gets, the more it flexes the arbor allowing the barrel to get too close or against the cylinder face. That inconsistent installation also affects your point of aim. The split washer is a good fix but you have to be careful when you take the barrel off to not loose it. Another solution is to silver solder a washer or spacer of the correct thickness to the end of the arbor. Then you may have to adjust the width of the wedge if the spacer is fairly thick. That will be a fix that won't get lost when you take the barrel off. Pettifogger explains how to get the spacing correct here. Another consideration is that the end of the arbor is flat and the bottom of the arbor hole in the barrel is not, so once this is done you won't ever have to address it again. Dropping a washer down the hole can give different results each time you assemble it if the washer is smaller than the diameter of the hole.

[Rube Burrows]

Thank you all for the answers. I did mean to put this in the STORM section. Not sure how I ended up putting it in the Leather section but thanks to whomever moved it.

The gun in question is a 71-72 Open Top made by Uberti. I will try the washer fix and see if I can make it better like that.

[Rube Burrows]

Well, this is going to sound dumb but it is what it is.

I made a trade with a cowboy and when I got the guns I noticed that problem. After further inspection and looking at the arbors and such I found that the parts were on the wrong guns.

One is a Stoeger and one is a Taylors. They each had the other's barrel, wedge and cylinder. Once I made the swap everything seems to be operating correctly. I guess the last person to put them back together mix matched the parts when doing so.

These have a good amount of use on them and I guess they prefer their own parts.

Looking forward to getting these out to the range.

Thanks again for everyone's help.

[Kent Shootwell]

Pretty!
But check the arbors. 

[45 Dragoon]

Of  course it's my opinion but a "single coil spring" (split washer) doesn't work well past SASS type loadings. If you're going to shoot regular or full power loads you need a solid spacer. I make mine from the head of a stainless steel #12 pan head  screw (Armys /Navys) and #14 for Walkers/Dragoons. The rounded head is "self centering" at the bottom of the arbor hole. Ultimately you end up with a solid spacer with full contact for harmonic transfer of force.  It allows you to shoot full loads ad nauseum.

Mike

[Rube Burrows]

Pretty!
But check the arbors. 

I def. will be checking the arbors.