Glue for holster lining

[Skeeter Lewis]

What glue would pards use for thin brain-tan lining?
Contact glue would grab too fast, and white glue might seep through the thin lining.

[Cliff Fendley]

I always use Barge. You just have to have things lined up pretty well and lay the pieces together. When doing lining I actually made a jig to stretch the lining out around a piece of pvc pipe and clamp it to the pipe. That holds the lining while I apply the contact cement and then I roll the main holster body around the pipe onto the lining. This puts the two together in a curve so when you fold the holster the lining doesn't bunch/wrinkle at the fold.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I've never used anything on leather but Barge. It never seems to be a problem. That said, I haven't glued brain tanned leather so can't attest to the suitability for that.

[Cliff Fendley]

I don't know about brain tan either. My above explanation is generally used on veg tan pigskin.

[Major 2]

I have used spray contact (3M Super Spray Adhesive 77) with Deer skin lining with success    ( and thin pig skin liner too)

Edit with actual product info

[Smokey Dave]

I use a lot of 3M #77 Spray Adhesive. It's pliable even when it's dry and I never get any wrinkles. I make a lot of other things besides gun holsters and belts, things like watch bands that need to be able to bend well. #77 works really good for that, even gluing calfskin. Calfskin is very thin and pliable and I haven't had any trouble with it.

[Buck Stinson]

I use Barge leather cement, also.  I apply glue to both the holster and the lining material.  I've  never  had a problem with the lining  material bunching up when the holster is folded over.  In my opinion, this could be a problem only if the lining material is too heavy.  Original holster lining was paper thin.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

...I've  never  had a problem with the lining  material bunching up when the holster is folded over.  In my opinion, this could be a problem only if the lining material is too heavy.

This is true. The only time I had a lining bunch up was when I made a pair of holsters with two layers of 9-10 oz leather. The holsters are solid, though. Hard as heck to wet mold but they won't loose their shape under any conditions.

[Davem]

Another vote for barge. Never use anything else.  A lot of glues are not waterproof and gorilla glue bubbles or expands so- barge is it.  Ace has it-at least on line.
On the braintan- it is sort of like suede.  On my slim jim percussion holsters I use suede even though the originals had a very thin glove leather type lining. The suede is pretty close and I use barge.  It isn't like contact cement but it does grab quickly so you need to line up everything without bubbles or wrinkles.

[Skeeter Lewis]

Thanks, pards, for all the great suggestions.

[PAMuzzleshooter]

Skeeter,  Great work.  What do you use to finish your holsters and what is your process for finishing?

Thanks
Doug

[Skeeter Lewis]

I had a go at lining two holsters, using chamois (shammy) leather and 3M 77 adhesive spray. I thought it would be easier than Barge to start with. Maybe Barge next time . . .
(I've lined holsters before but not with this fine lining.)
I tacked the lining to a board, sprayed the lining and the leather, and put them together. It went fairly easily.

[Skeeter Lewis]

PA - to finish my holsters I use TanKote. Natural shoe polish is also fine.

[Davem]

That looks real good. If it isn't too much trouble, could you post a photo of the BACK and where the belt loop is placed.  I have made a couple of slim Jim/California type holsters and have come to the option you need to have the revolver deep into the holster or the loop will be too low from a center of gravity type situation.