Your history of casting.

[King Medallion]

As most of you regulars here have seen I now have (on the way) a Presidio 76 in 50/95. In my search for bullets to shoot in the new toy, it's becoming pretty clear to me I'm gonna have to learn how to cast my own bullets. So, I bought a book. Lyman's Cast bullet Handbook. I know nothing about casting, so I'll probably be asking a bunch of question, hope I don't become a nuisance about it. I'd like to hear how you guys first learned how to cast bullets, what you first used, funny story's, ect. And what should I definitely NOT get.
King

[Coal Creek Griff]

I decided to start off with the least outlay that I could reasonably spend. I think that it was a good way to go. It gave me experience and I could buy new equipment once I gained experience. I started with a Lee lead pot and molds and used Lee push-through sizers. Although I now rely on custom molds and a larger RCBS lead furnace, I still use the same sizing dies and pan lube.  I've honed out a few sizers to get a custom fit for odd sizes. It all works for me.

Bullet casting is a whole new realm of handloading and a lot of fun. Most handloaders just assemble parts, but bullets casters actually make part of their ammunition. Getting your cast bullets to shoot well from your guns is very satisfying.

CC Griff

[Blackpowder Burn]

There are a couple of good books by Paul Matthews - "Loading the Black Powder Rifle Cartridge" and "Shooting the Black Powder Cartridge Rifle".  Of course, I'm assuming you shoot black powder, but it's just "right" for these rifles.  The books deal with single shots for long range, but the casting and loading techniques are universal.  I've been casting for black powder bullets for over 10 years, and until recently used a bottom pour furnace.  After all, pistol caliber cowboy ammo fired at under 25 yards doesn't really need extraordinary care and great accuracy.  Once I got seriously involved in long range with  true rifle calibers, I ultimately became convinced that using a ladle to dip and pour the lead produced a much more uniform weight bullet.  I still don't understand why that is, but I definitely convinced myself it is true in side by side testing with the same mold. I can normally produce 80%+ of my bullets within + or - 0.2 grains for my favorite 40-65 bullets.

While you likely won't be using your '76 for extremely long range applications, it's still nice to punch nice tight groups, and I've found these techniques really do help.

I also use a Magma Engineering Star Lubrisizer.  I started out with a Lyman lubrisizer and ultimately graduated to the much faster straight through Star unit.  I'd never consider anything else at this point.  I can size and lube 100 bullets in about 5 minutes.

Accurate molds makes some great bullet molds.  He'll even modify an existing mold or make a completely new design for no additional cost. 

[King Medallion]

I have both those books, I'll have to revisit them.

[greyhawk]

As most of you regulars here have seen I now have (on the way) a Presidio 76 in 50/95. In my search for bullets to shoot in the new toy, it's becoming pretty clear to me I'm gonna have to learn how to cast my own bullets. So, I bought a book. Lyman's Cast bullet Handbook. I know nothing about casting, so I'll probably be asking a bunch of question, hope I don't become a nuisance about it. I'd like to hear how you guys first learned how to cast bullets, what you first used, funny story's, ect. And what should I definitely NOT get.
King

I started casting at age 15 (72 now) for a 32/20 model 92 - made hundreds (thousands) of boolits in an antique winchester mold - used a little metho burner like the hikers carry to heat their dinner - a bean can for the lead - made a ladle dipper out of a piece of half inch flat with the aluminium lid off a tomato sauce (ketchup) bottle rivetted to the steel - wrecked old car batteries for the lead and a little bit of stick solder went in. I still dipper pour, (got a decent bought one) , heat on an old gas stovetop, cast iron melting pot - never owned an electric pot - no wish to. Got an eight dollar barbeque thermometer rigged up in my pot now - simple stuff works .   

[Kent Shootwell]

I've made most of the mistakes possible in casting, there maybe some that I don't know about, but now it's fairly easy to get good results.
First error was thinking hard bullets are better. Anything less then magnum loads work better with 20-1 alloy.
Real advancement came with proper lube! A lube made for black powder works fine for smoke less but smoke less lube is worthless with black powder.
Next was ladle poured rifle bullets cut my groups in half. Hold the mold sideways and place the dipper against it then rotate the combination to up right. It's fast enough for rifle bullet casting.
Fluxing in an attached garage will have the wife on you like a duck on a June bug! 

[Blackpowder Burn]

+1 everything Kent just said.

[Black River Smith]

King Medallion,

I am going to add to all the good info already given.  I have been casting and loading for 32 years.  I started in 88 when I bought my first large pistol in 45Colt.  Now, I cast for several calibers and multiple bullet designs plus percussion Roundballs and Conicals.

The following list of books are what I used as references and questions.  Started with 'Handloading for Handgunners' by Nonte, Jr -- 24 pages on Casting & Sizing & Lead & Lube & mold handling.  Lyman - 'Pistol & Revolver Handbook' circa 1988 or 89.  Others, that I have added are 'NRA Illustrated Reloading Handbook' -- 15 pages of casting guidance over 4 different parts (Really like this manual) from 1962 or 63.  I would suggest trying to get a copy's of Lyman - 'Handbook of Cast Bullets' and Lyman/Ideal 39th Edition - 'Handbook of Reloading Ammunition'(contains old Ideal historical info) ie. 50/95 WCF - 340gr bullet at 1 to 16 Tin to Lead alloy sized to 0.512".  Other source state a 300gr bullet.  'Cartridges of the World' suggests Lyman 512137 (350gr) or 512139 (290gr) or 518144 (285gr) or 518145 (350gr).

When I started, I used Wheel Weights for lead source.  I melted with an old coil electric 1000W hotplate.  Melted in a cast iron pan.  Did not flux.  Ladled out and filled the mold.   Now, I have tin and 99% lead to create the alloy mixture (tin to lead) as recommended in the Lyman 39th Edition per caliber.   I melt with an old coil electric 1000W hotplate.  Melt only 10 lbs of alloy in a cast iron pan. Flux with a small piece of beeswax.  Clean the mold.  Blacken it with candle or bic lighter or wood match if aluminum.  Heat it to temp on the cast iron pot.  Then ladle out and fill the mold.  Through wrinkled bullet back in pot.  I normally only cast 100 to 200 bullets at a time.  Lead alloy is cooled and marked with alloy indication, dropped out of pan and set aside.  Drop whatever alloy I want in the pan and melt for new caliber.

Because I believe in the 'historical development/studies of ammunition' back when -- I stay with original Lyman/Ideal or Winchester or Colt bullet mold designs in my original and clone firearms. (edited in) I do have Lee molds for certain things.

One thing to understand I shot CAS and try for 100 yard accuracy for all, but pistol, calibers.  I Do Not Hunt.  I use my techniques for both smokeless and BP loading.  I started loading smokeless for 6 years for only 2 calibers then loaded BP for ~16 years in 7 calibers and Now smokeless again for ~10 years (after quitting CAS outdoor shooting) in all the same old-time calibers.

Lubing can be the same or different depending on your desires. BP lube can be used on smokeless bullets but not visa-versa.

Another good source I read is at another website called Cast Boolits subsection Cast Boolits.  Sorry if it is not appropriate to reference a different website, but it is a good source of Info.

[Jeremiah Jones]

I use a small cast iron frying pan to melt and pour.  I use a propane weed burner to melt the lead. I have been using that combination for casting lead round balls and 15/25 mmm lead soldiers for 40 years.  I just cast my first .45 RNFP bullets.

[dusty texian]

Have been casting my own bullets since the mid 1980's and still ladle pour from a pot over propane flame . At first it seems awkward but after you get some experience you will find a rhythm and before you know it the bullets start to pile up . Getting your mold hot enough is something you will learn first wrinkled bullets your mold is cold , frosted bullets and your lead is running hot . after casting a while you can look at the bullet color and texture and tell if you are  at the right temp for both mold and lead ( shiny and smooth is what you want  ) . I use a big towel laid out next to my casting pot for dropping the bullet from the mold for a soft landing . For safety never allow water near your casting pot ,one drop of water in the hot lead is dangerous . If you see a small hole in the base of the bullet  after cutting the sprue  and dropping a bullet , you should tilt the mold over at an angle when pouring and fill the sprue cutter full , give the bullet a little time to harden, before cutting .casting is an art in itself and is not hard to learn , just be careful and the more you do it the better your bullets get . ,,,DT

[Black River Smith]

Getting your mold hot enough is something you will learn first wrinkled bullets your mold is cold , frosted bullets and your lead is running hot . after casting a while you can look at the bullet color and texture and tell if you are  at the right temp for both mold and lead ( shiny and smooth is what you want  ) . I use a big towel laid out next to my casting pot for dropping the bullet from the mold for a soft landing . For safety never allow water near your casting pot ,one drop of water in the hot lead is dangerous . If you see a small hole in the base of the bullet  after cutting the sprue  and dropping a bullet , you should tilt the mold over at an angle when pouring and fill the sprue cutter full , give the bullet a little time to harden, before cutting .casting is an art in itself and is not hard to learn , just be careful and the more you do it the better your bullets get . ,,,DT

King,

Dusty's comments reminded me of other things that I needed to add to my process.  I also, use a towel to drop the hot bullets on.  I use standard leather work gloves on both hands and open the sprue plate with the gloves after a count of 10.  I also have a 1"X12" wood dowel that is used to hit the handle joint pin if bullets stick in mold.  Have an extra because they will splinter over time.

His comment about Water is Very, Very important to remember.  Never wash wheel weights or lead sources then attempt to melt it, let it dry completely.  Do not work near a water source that could splash into your pot.

His comment about temperature and appearance of the cast bullet is what I also go by.  I run my hotplate on High.  I once worried about the 'exact' temperature, via a thermometer, but quickly learned to just watch the looks of the dropped bullets to determine how the casting is going.  Remember for general shooting, plinking, CAS distances or 150 yard distance shooting, the cast bullet does not have to be to the 'n'th' degree of perfection.  They do not have to all weight the same, either.

One last comment, I did start out with Lee bullet molds and still use them for some cartridges but I prefer to use Lyman designs.  I used the Lee 515-450 bullet mold to 'create' a 350 gr bullet for my Spencer 56/50 BP rounds back in 2005-2006 timeframe(still use it).  The grease grooves were large enough in that mold unlike some of their pistol molds.  But they do not offer a 300 to 350 grain mold.

Read - Read - Read until you are comfortable about what you are about to do, then put your hands to work.

Then ask more specific questions about each step you may be questioning.  As you can see there are a lot of different approaches to get to a finished bullet.  Bottom pour pots is maybe something you would prefer???

[Coffinmaker]

  Hey All   

Some Lustrum ago, when I was full of Pee and vinegar,  and was an AVID handgun hunter, I went in search of really big bullets.  .45s.  I had Ruger Blackhawks and Thompson Center single shots.  All .45s.  I was convinced I could get or even exceed the performance of the 44 Mag with 45 Colt.  I did.

But to get the bullet weight I wanted, I had to cast.  Used a 20Lb bottom pour pot, steel Molds and ALL the hints referenced above.  I wound up with 265Gr Keith type Semi-Wadcutters and 300Gr Keith Type Semi-Wadcutters.  On a friends Chrono, I was getting 1570 to 1600 FPS with the 265Gr Bullet.  Duplex loads.  Hurt to shoot.  Oversize Grips.

So much for success.  Spent the next 10 years moving around so much, casting became a non-player.  Never got back to it.  For CAS at one time, I was running about 6000 rounds a week down range.  Couldn't keep up by myself if I tried.  To those who do cast their own and are successful, Good On Ya Mates.

[dusty texian]

BRS mentioned gloves YES ! I use a pair of welding gloves  when bullet casting ,comfortable and protects your wrist and forearm . Most times even after heating the mold ,  the first few bullets cast are set aside to go back into the mix . After 4 or 5 bullets the mold gets to the right temp. and starts dropping good bullets . I do smoke / soot  the bullet cavity before using it  seems to help and is the way I was taught .  ,,,DT

[greyhawk]

Have to confess I dont use gloves - just find it too fumbly. (not a recommendation to follow suit by any means) no serious burns in over fifty years of casting - always wear glasses - I figure a minor splatter burn to the back of the hands would be enough to take an eye out!

I use a hardwood stick about hammer handle size to cut the sprue (because of the no gloves)

Read on here (or the Cast Boolit forum) about fluxing with sawdust rather than wax - surprised me how much better that worked but I still use wax on occasion (lazy gets me).

Work out in the fresh air as much as possible - I reckon the biggest hazard of casting is the unseen one - fumes.

 

[dusty texian]

Thanks for passing along the use of sawdust  greyhawk  , have never tried that . Always just used old candle's . Need to read up on this sawdust deal , about to do some casting . ,,,DT

[King Medallion]

Thanks for all the advice so far, guy's. Watched some youtube vids too, it looks easy enough. Practice makes perfect, right? So I have been reading thru the load data threads, getting mold numbers and so on. I'm seeing mostly Lyman molds, Mountain molds a few times, and Lee. Seems like the Lee molds are aluminum and are harder to work with? Do you guys use single cavities? Double? The Lyman handle fit all molds? I don't want to buy a bunch of stuff I don't need. Thanks for your help again.
Steve

[Jeremiah Jones]

With aluminum molds, I just throw the first 2-3 cast, back into the melting pot.  That will heat the mold up so the following castings are GTG.  Remember to keep the wind at your back or side.  You do not want to be breathing the fumes.

[Cliff Fendley]

I use sawdust too

[King Medallion]

So I'm cruising thru Midway looking at molds, looks like they are a single cavity type only? Everything is backorder, nothing in stock. I put a notify me on a few 45's. I see that handles are not interchangeable?

[Cap'n Redneck]

Lyman / RCBS / Saeco / LEE handles might not be "drop-in" when tried on different brand mold-blocks, but usually there is just a minimal amount of grinding necessary in order to make them fit.

I prefer the LEE handles made for LEE 6-cavity molds.  They are long and comfortable, they are only about half the price of other brands, and normally take but a few seconds on the bench-grinder to make them fit Lyman- / RCBS- / Pedersoli-molds.  (of course; a good handfile and some elbowgrease will also get the job done, eventually.) 
To clarify:  LEE sell these specifically for their 6-cavity molds, as all LEE single and double cavity molds come with slightly shorter handles permanently fixed to the molds.  But the LEE "6-cavity" handles will mostly interchange with other brands of single, double or quadruple cavity steel molds.

Pros & cons of aluminum molds: They are usually cheaper, lighter, and heat up quicker. The mold itself does not rust, but the sprue-cutter plate and the alignment-pins and bushings will rust. Store in a dry place.
The downside is that they wear out faster, especially if roughly handled.  Try to avoid opening the sprue-cutter plate with a mallet.  Use thick leather gloves instead.  Only use the wooden mallet to tap the centre hinge-pin of the handles in order to rattle the bullets out of the mold.

Get the RCBS Lead Dipper.  I find it essential when casting heavy rifle bullets.  Check to see if the hole through the pour spout is drilled in the centre of the spout.  If not: return the dipper.  You might want to enlarge this hole in order to fill your mold block faster, and get more premium quality bullets.

I find that when casting long heavy rifle bullets the single cavity molds work best.
The multiple cavity molds are better suited for roundballs and pistol size bullets.