Uberti Schofield cylinder quill bushing removal?

Started by LeftyLarry, November 25, 2020, 08:40:04 AM

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LeftyLarry

I have it in my head I need to acquire a Uberti Schofield but intend to shoot BP, and given it's short blast bushing on the cylinder it is given to binding. My intention is to repeat a modification I have seen where the blast bushing is replaced with a removable bushing that is longer. Now in order to get things to fit the cylinder bushing quill will have to be removed to rebate the area below the bore to allow for a longer blast bushing on the cylinder.

So without having the pistol in hand yet can anyone advise me how the cylinder quill (part no 187 on the parts breakdown) is affixed and how to remove it?

Thanks in advance, if this project gets off the ground expect pictures and progress reports.

Pettifogger

Since no one has answered I'll give it a partial shot.  I toyed with the same idea about fifteen years ago, posed the same question and got the same non-answers.  Based on looking at the gun, the schematic, and having part (#187) in hand, it appeared to me that the base pin is pressed in.  Since I shoot duelist and did not like the lock work, the feel of the grip and reach to the hammer, I decided rather than risk ruining the guns I would sell them and move on to something else.

LeftyLarry

 You are surely a wiser man than I, I intend to make a wrench to attempt to remove the quill, we'll see, worst I can do is ruin the barrel, right :P

I'm expecting my new iron to get in this week so we'll see, but I'll be sure to post pics of progress. The reply is much appreciated.

Pettifogger

Yeah, be sure to post photos.  I will be interested on what you find.

Coffinmaker


:)  Hummmmmm,   ;)

Some Lustrum ago, when I was still gainfully employed, a repeat customer of mine brought a pair of Uberti Schofield to the shop with mostly the same question.  Could the gun be modified to run a cylinder bushing of similar profile to an original sample example to alleviate binding with BP.

I thought it a good idea until I looked at an original and the quill, and the cylinder, and the frame, and the Uberti and decided it was rather major surgery with no guarantee to the patient.  Handed them back.  I also figured, if "Happy Trails" hasn't done it already, I probably shouldn't.

The Uberti problem with fouling is obviously the cylinder was extended to facilitate 45 Colt cartridges, eliminating the OEM Bushing which deflected the gun gasses.  That little move to "marketing" was . . . . STUPID.

LeftyLarry

I hear ya Coffinmaker, it certainly comes with some risk. I am going to knock together a clamp/ pushing device, it will be reamed to the external dia of the quill, then be slit with a couple pinch screws to get it on there tight, then the "breech" end will be threaded so a pusher can go the inside the quill.... (which I assume to be thru bored), and push it straight out of the barrel assy. From there... just some custom piloted end mills, time on the lathen a reamer or two and tada... a hopefully slightly improved product that will reside in the back of my safe while I move on to the next project.

Uberti certainly missed the boat on the Schofield and it's top break line, if you're a world class manufacturer of reproduction firearms and want to chamber it in a longer chambering than oroginal... just stretch the frame that extra .2", but no, now knuckleheads like myself have to obsess over mostly non-issues so we can get more than 6 shots shooting obsolete powder in our obsolete ammo, from our obsolete boomers.

Coffinmaker


:)  Hi Lefty   ;)

Yepper so right!!  Uberti so "Missed the Boat" with the Schofield.

Your laundry list of requirements to "re-manufacture" the Schofield to facilitate the addition of a corrected Gas Ring/Bushing is one of the reasons I elected to pass.  Some things just aren't commercially viable.  When the commercial cost of a job, is equal to or more than the original Sample Examples purchase price . . . . PASS.

Good Luck with your project and along with "others" I also wanna see PICTURES!!

kwilliams1876

I believe the modification of the gas collar was done in the past. See attached link, if I ever buy another Schofield I will probably do the same conversion. There was another post that showed the frame milled back for the longer installed collar but I cannot find it.
https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=565862

kw

LeftyLarry

Got my Schofeld yesterday evening and got it opened up today. It's a 2001 vintage Navy Arms branded import, shows some use and the grips fit terribly, either they were small to begin with pr shrunk significantly. All the same the innards are good and it reportedly has a low round count. I'll post more once I have my tooling sorted out, I have reamers on the way and will start into things once it arrives.

Also... of anyone has one of these that's been modofied with the "no touch trigger"? If someone were so inclined I would very much like to see what the cylinder stop and trigger interface looks like on one.

Pettifogger

Actually it comes with the "no touch trigger."  The conversion makes it into a "you can touch it" trigger.  The stock S&W cylinder bolt operates off the trigger.  If you have your finger on the trigger and try to cock it, it won't cock.  The conversion converted the innards so the bolt operates off the hammer like a Colt.  Thus, there is no cylinder stop/trigger interface on the conversion.  It removes that interface.  I only knew one guy that did the mod and he has long since retired.

P.S. while you have it apart throw away the internal hammer block safety.  It is a source of light primer hits and misfires.

LeftyLarry

Thanks for the correction, and the insight into operation, I had sorted out that the trigger was interfaced with the bolt stop but adding a lobe to the hammer and makijg everything fit in there looks like a challenge.

I have sent a couple emails to some of the old timers who used to do this work but haven't heard back yet. The bushing change at least should be acheivable, and copy on the removal of the safety device, it's already sitting on the work bench.

Pettifogger


LeftyLarry

Quote from: Pettifogger on December 10, 2020, 10:02:57 AM
How to fix the Mickey Mouse hand spring.

Is that a 1911 plunger housing? Is it riveted or brazed to the inside of the sodeplate?

Cool idea.

Marshall Matt Dillon

Mine seems pressed in by visual. My new uberti schofield has .014 clearance between cylinder and barrel. If you can physically look at pistol before buying,,,,i think that is too loose.

Pettifogger

Lefty, any updates?  We are anxiously awaiting photos of the quill removal or destruction of the gun.  Which ever comes first.

P.S.  I have several "projects" hidden in the garage.  I usually don't show my ideas that did not pan out.

wildman1

I have seen that mod done on a pair on the east coast, it was done by Happy Trails at the Smith Shop. Happy Trails is retired but the Smith Shop is still in business. I believe the Cowboy that had the mod done was Abominable Bill. Could be I'm wrong about that but I don't think so.
wM1
PS would not hurt to contact the Smith Shop they might be able to at least give some help.
WARTHOG, Dirty Rat #600, BOLD #1056, CGCS,GCSAA, NMLRA, NRA, AF&AM, CBBRC.  If all that cowboy has ever seen is a stockdam, he ain't gonna believe ya when ya tell him about whales.

Doc Waxham

I had to replace the cylinder pin on  my old #3. I got the parts from John Hoorvath but anyway talking to him for removal get a piece of steel dowell rod that will fit in the bushing with as little slop as possible. Some vise grips and piece of leather or a thick rag or whatever. Put in vise and remove.

Doc

LeftyLarry

Quote from: Doc Waxham on January 14, 2021, 09:31:59 AM
I had to replace the cylinder pin on  my old #3. I got the parts from John Hoorvath but anyway talking to him for removal get a piece of steel dowell rod that will fit in the bushing with as little slop as possible. Some vise grips and piece of leather or a thick rag or whatever. Put in vise and remove.

Doc

Thanks Doc, I have everything to give it a try in hand, just need to find a few free hours to get into the shop and see what happens. I'll follow up with pics, hopefully of something other than a ruined barrel assembly.

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