1876 Winchester Project Rifle

[KenH]

Rather than starting a new thread I'll ask a question on this thread - or would it be better to start new thread to ask about ageing metal?

The Uberti parts I got for the 1876 have a new black looking finish.  I'd like to remove the black finish and "age" the parts, make the new parts look more like the old patina on the existing rifle.  I'm thinking just sand off finish using a fine sand paper - perhaps an 800 grit finish?  400 grit?  Then wipe down with vinegar and let sit a while.  OR - perhaps FeCl solution?  I use FeCl for etching Damascus for the pattern so have some on hand.

Comments and guidance please,

Ken H>

[King Medallion]

It's part of this project, so I would keep it here. One the other hand, you may get more traffic on a thread titled for that particular venture.

[Slamfire]

  " DITTO " King ,, I just rebuilt a 45-60 and cold blued all made parts,, then lightly " rubbed off the bluing , ( alcohol & water ), to give it that aged look,, your new parts are salt blued ( I could be mistaken ) , use Ace-tone ( finger nail polish remover ),, or you could just shoot it ,, 120 years ?? ( lol) When using alcohol & water , leave the pieces wet,, let set for a day or 2 , it will start to rust lightly,, clean  with alcohol ,, then use cold blue on parts to the desired look you want ,, YMMV ,, mine looks very used ( not abused ).

  coffee's ready ,, Hootmix.

[KenH]

Thanks for the info - it sounds like there was no reason for me to start the new thread I just started on ageing metal.  I had wondered how cold blue, then "cleaning" up would work.  Sounds like it'll do nicely.  Thanks for the info

[Major 2]

Try white vinegar with out the sandpaper, it will remove bluing.... if that is what the blackish coat is

I've used Navel Jelly too

[KenH]

I'll give some vinegar later today and let ya'll know how it worked.  Thanks for the info

[King Medallion]

 Or, or,, you could get the whole rifle up n running, then send it to Turnbull or Taylor's and have the whole thing refinished and CCH,

[KenH]

Sending it out for a new finish?  I sorta like the "old" look.  BTW, what's CCH?

Got forearm cap soaking in vinegar now - we'll see how it goes.  Not sure of time so will keep a watch, or will it take an overnight soak?

edit:  Just checked and after 5 minutes most of the finish is removed.  That's gonna work great for removing the new black finish.  Thanks for idea

[King Medallion]

[KenH]

WOW!!  That is pretty for sure - simply amazing.  I know it's got to be big bucks, what would having a rifle finished like that cost - just in general terms a price range?  $500?  $1,000?

Yea, I know, if you've got to ask you can't afford it {g}

[King Medallion]

Kinda why I bought a Uberti, Can't afford the real thing. And both do the same thing, big boom, big hole. 

[KenH]

OK, I think I understand, the photo above is of your Uberti - darn nice looking rifle.  I fully understand why you purchased the Uberti rather than an original, same reason I purchased a Pedersoli 1874 Sharps.  Love to have an original, but the Pedersoli is good enough for me for shooting.  The price of those original 1874 Sharps in shootable condition is outta sight.

[King Medallion]

No, that one is not mine, I just googled CCH and grabbed the 1st pic. This one is mine, early Uberti in 45/75.

[KenH]

OK, you've still got a good looking 1876 lever action rifle.  I'm sure you've had many fun days shooting it.   I'm looking forward to getting my old rifle in shooting condition.  I guess I'm a little anxious, already got 20 new Jamison 40-60 brass, bullet mold, and RCBS 3 die set of loading dies.  RCBS on sale for $25 - couldn't pass it up.

[King Medallion]

only 20??? Oh man, gotta have at least 200 while the gittn's good. once they're gone, they're gone. I know I spent a goodly amount finding and securing Jamison 45/75 brass, and when I found 40/60, and 50/95 Jamison brass, I grabbed them too. Now just finding those 2 rifles in said calibers. 1 at a time. For whatever reason, 45/60 doesn't really interest me. Maybe because I have 2 1886's in 45/70. In time I hope to have all 4.

[Buck Stinson]

CCH IS COLOR CASE DARDENDED

[KenH]

Thank you Buck - I didn't have a clue what CCH was, did a search and best I found was "Concealed Carry Handgun", which I'd always known as CCW (Concealed Carry Weapon) permit.  Color Case Hardened stuff looks good.  Perhaps more than I'll ever do on this rifle.

Thanks again Buck.  And thanks for looking up how the rifle was shipped from factory "in October of 1884 as a standard 28" octagon full mag in .40-60 caliber.  There were at least a dozen guns all exactly alike in the same caliber shipped the same day to the same order number. "

Looks like my rifle has a replacement barrel since there is no Winchester info stamped on barrel in front of action, except for "Cal 40-60"

While it's not in near "original condition" and will never be of an interest to a serious collector, it's just right for me as an old shooter.

Ken H>

[dusty texian]

Thanks for the info - it sounds like there was no reason for me to start the new thread I just started on ageing metal.  I had wondered how cold blue, then "cleaning" up would work.  Sounds like it'll do nicely.  Thanks for the info

kenH  you can get pretty close to the Old Look using Cold Blue and rubbing back with 0000 steel wool . A tip I have used Birchwood Casey Plum Brow along with the Cold Blue to make the patina look / smooth rust color . Good part of doing this , if you don't like the look just strip and start over .PS . enjoying following along with your project . ,,,DT

[KenH]

Thank you Buck - I didn't have a clue what CCH was, did a search and best I found was "Concealed Carry Handgun", which I'd always known as CCW (Concealed Carry Weapon) permit.  Color Case Hardened stuff looks good.  Perhaps more than I'll ever do on this rifle.

Thanks again Buck.  And thanks for looking up how the rifle was shipped from factory "in October of 1884 as a standard 28" octagon full mag in .40-60 caliber.  There were at least a dozen guns all exactly alike in the same caliber shipped the same day to the same order number. "

Looks like my rifle has a replacement barrel since there is no Winchester info stamped on barrel in front of action, except for "Cal 40-60"

While it won't be anywhere near "original condition" and will never be of an interest to a serious collector, it's just right for me as an old shooter.

Ken H>

[KenH]

OK, for a short update to the project rifle. Thanks to a board member I've been able to make a couple of toggle links that work. For the needed parts I've either made or purchased Uberti parts for the rifle.  Again a special THANK YOU to a kind member of the board who sent me a set of toggle links to use as a pattern.  I wouldn't have been able to make the links without his kind assistance.

I'll talk about the Uberti firing pin problem. When moving the bolt out of battery to rear ejecting point , about mid way it movement stops. See image:


By putting finger (or thumb) on bottom of bolt to lift up slightly the movement will continue to full rear position.



Fortunately I found my neighbor has an original 1876 that his great-great-grandpa purchased new and has been handed down to him. He was kind enough to loan me the rifle to remove side plates and lever to see how things work on a toggle link lever action. I'd never even seen one before this project rifle. I fiddled around for a couple days trying to figure out the jam problem - finally I measured the firing pin diameter of the original Winchester, then the Uberti. OK, the Uberti pin is .008" larger in diameter causing the jam. The slight downward movement of the bolt as the toggle links pull bolt rearwards cause the bolt to drop a tiny bit throwing the firing pin out of alignment with the hole in the action.

I made a new firing pin the same diameter as the Winchester pin (remember Winchester is a one piece firing pin while the Uberti is a 2 piece firing pin). That solved the problem. Almost every Uberti part I've purchased has needed some type of modification.

The aluminum finger lever seened in the photo is one I made by using the original as a pattern. I had a piece of 1/2" aluminum plate laying around so used that. Works good, except for the finger lever spring puts a good bit of pressure and would wear the aluminum pretty quick I'm sure so I left spring off for testing.

Here's another image of where the rifle is now.


I wish to say  THANK YOU to all of ya'll for the help 'n guidance provided with this project.