Pyrodex load data

[powderhombre]

My can of Pyrodex says not to load beyond the load data found on the Hodgdon web site. However there is no load data on the website I can find. Anyone know where to find load data for this substitute? I have a bunch and I am looking to shoot it up the get rid of it. I would like to look at FPS and PSI ratings. thanks

[AntiqueSledMan]

Hello powderhombre,

I have this in a word document, AntiqueSledMan.

HODGDON LOADING NOTES
WARNING - Before loading your firearm, stop and read and understand the instructions furnished with your firearm. If you do not have an owner's manual for your firearm, contact the manufacturer and request one. The owner's manual for your firearm should specify a maximum allowable load. Under no circumstances should this maximum be exceeded.
Make certain that there is no cap, primer or powder in the priming pan of the firearm. Make certain that the firearm is not already loaded.
All charges of Triple Seven or Pyrodex should be measured by VOLUME not weight. A simple, adjustable blackpowder measure is the correct tool for this job. All loads listed in this brochure are measured by VOLUME.
Triple Seven is a high energy product designed to provide the muzzleloading hunter with higher velocities when used in the same VOLUME as blackpowder. To duplicate a blackpowder load velocity using Triple Seven, you must decrease the powder charge by 15%. *See WARNING below.
Pyrodex is lighter in weight than blackpowder and weighs only about 70% as much as blackpowder. However, because Pyrodex yields more energy per pound than does blackpowder, the same volume of Pyrodex gives similar performance to blackpowder. Pyrodex loads given in this manual for muzzleloading guns are measured by volume, not weight.
Triple Seven In Cartridges: Use data specifically developed for Triple Seven FFG only. Cartridge loads should be used exactly as listed in this pamphlet. You may safely use a card or polyethylene wad up to .030" in thickness to protect the base of the bullet. Loading density should be 100% with light compression not to exceed .100". Testing has shown that Triple Seven will perform best when the bullet just touches the powder. Allow no airspace between the base of the bullet and the powder. Do not reduce loads by means of filler wads or inert filler material such as Grits, Dacron or Grex. Do not heavily compress powder charges. The use of filler wads, inert fillers or heavy compression may cause a dangerous situation, which could cause injury and/or death to the shooter, bystanders or damage property. Do not create loads for cartridges not listed. Contact Hodgdon Powder Company for recommendations concerning other loads. *See WARNINGS below.
Pyrodex In Cartridges: The mechanics of reloading metallic cartridges are quite simple, but there is one requirement of the modern shooter that cannot be overlooked. The modern loader must set aside his knowledge of loading with smokeless powders and embrace the ways of years gone by. It must always be remembered that blackpowder and Pyrodex are very inefficient powders by today's standards. The methods described here are consistent with good loading practices for Pyrodex and should be followed without regard to smokeless loading practices.
Pyrodex works best in straight walled cases, but it will work satisfactorily in bottle necked cartridges as long as our warnings are observed.
WARNING: Never allow an air space in any cartridge loaded with Pyrodex. The loading density must be 100% by light compression. 100% loading density may be accomplished in two ways:
The case is filled with powder to a level that will provide light compression of the powder (1/16" to 1/8") when the bullet is seated. Bottle necked cases must be loaded in this manner.
In straight walled cases, filler wads may be used to reduce the powder charge. This is done by inserting card or Polyethylene wads between the base of the bullet and the powder. Wads should be sized to the internal diameter of the cartridge case. The loader must be careful to insure that there are no void spaces in the assembled cartridge. NEVER use any other type of filler material. Be careful as loads are reduced. At some point, the bullet will fail to exit the bore.
When loading cartridges with Pyrodex or Triple Seven, you may use a powder measure designed for smokeless powders. Learn more.
Pyrodex does produce a corrosive residue from combustion. Even though this fouling is softer than the fouling produced by blackpowder, firearms should be cleaned after each use. Hodgdon Powder Co. recommends the use of natural cleaning solvents.
Cartridge cases that have been fired using Pyrodex require special care. As soon as possible after firing, cases should be de-primed and immersed in 50% water and white vinegar. The acidity of the vinegar will neutralize the corrosive residues remaining in the case. Care should be taken to limit the soaking time of the cases in the vinegar to 10 minutes. Soaking for a longer time may cause etching of the brass case resulting in shortened case life. Rinse cases with clear water, dry and polish in a tumbler with corncob or walnut shell media.
Flintlock: To insure proper ignition in flintlock systems, 5 grains of FFFFG priming powder should be placed into the bore prior to loading the main charge of Triple Seven or Pyrodex. Consult the loading data in this brochure to determine the proper charge for the caliber firearm used and the chosen projectile. The main powder charge should be reduced by 5 grains to compensate for the addition of the priming powder. While holding the firearm vertically, slowly pour the measured charge of Triple Seven or Pyrodex into the barrel. Seat the projectile firmly against the powder. Make certain that there is no airspace between the powder and the projectile. *See WARNING below.
Percussion Firearms: Select the proper charge from the loads listed in this brochure. Set powder measure as indicated. While holding the firearm vertically, slowly pour the measured charge of Triple Seven or Pyrodex into the barrel. Seat the projectile firmly against the powder . Make sure that there is no airspace between the powder and the projectile. *See WARNING below.
Do not prime the pan on a flintlock or place a primer/cap on the firearm until ready to begin shooting.
*WARNING: Failure to follow the recommendations for use of Triple Seven and Pyrodex could result in injury and/or death to the shooter or bystanders and damage to property.

[Coffinmaker]

  powderhombre   

Please allow me to add.  You may already know this, however:

PYRODEX is a RUSTING AGENT that just happens to burn.  I cannot in all good conscience suggest anyone use it any firearm.  Unless it's a JUNKER.  If it's not a junker, pyrodex will, in short order, turn it into a JUNKER.

It's only good use is as a fertilizer.  Spread it well just before it rains.  Then forget you ever purchased it.

Hide and Watch.

[hellgate]

I load Pyrodex (P and RS or Select) in shotgun shells but I clean it out the very same evening or the next day at the latest. Fortunatelt the humidity here is low unless it is raining.

[Dave T]

I load Pyrodex (P and RS or Select) in shotgun shells but I clean it out the very same evening or the next day at the latest. Fortunatelt the humidity here is low unless it is raining.

That how I pitted the left barrel and rusted the right barrel on the Rossi 12ga I started CAS with back in the mid 1980s. I'm with the Coffinmaker on this one.

Dave

[powderhombre]

I have heard about Pyrodex being very corrosive. I don't fool around about cleaning. I usually clean any gun I shoot BP in immediately when I get home, even if I only shoot one round. Thanks for the help.

[Professor Marvel]

My Good Hombre

if you can stand working your way through a wall o' text check out this old thread, where we discuss it to death and
I blabber on at the keyboard
https://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php?topic=57916.0

yhs
prof marvel

[Im2bent]

or you can go with this. https://www.chuckhawks.com/doc_white2.htm
I will happily dispose of all your horrific pyrodex pistol for you guys so you dont contaminate your property. Pm me with how much you want to get rid of at 2 bucks a pound (seems a fair price for fertilizer) so we can figure out the shipping cost.

[Cliff Fendley]

Ammonium Nitrate is better to spend your money on. Its probably about as good for gunpowder, about the same corrosive, but definitely better fertilizer for your yard.

[River City John]

I have used Pyrodex for a powder-burned finish on stringed wood instruments, (cigar box guitar, mountain dulcimer or ukulele built from kits).

Outdoors on a calm day:

Take an unstrung acoustic guitar or ukulele and patiently create a design in Pyrodex on either the face or back while laying flat with surface uppermost.
Copy a heavy contrast black and white picture or a free drawn design for inspiration.
(Think of the old iron filing picture puzzle where you picked up bits of filings with the magnetic stylus to "draw" a beard, hat, . . . whatever, on the face under the clear plastic cover.)

Use a soft artist brush, stick, anything to manipulate the grains into an image covering the surface.
Observe common sense safety, i.e. stand away from instrument when lighting a spot on one edge and the powder flash will carry it across the surface, burning darker where the Pyrodex was sitting thicker and lighter where the layer was thin.

After it's through burning, buff the surface gently to remove ash residue and spray a light overcoat of favorite clear finish. String 'er up and make some music.


That's the best use for Pyrodex, to my mind.


RCJ
 

[Cliff Fendley]

I have used Pyrodex for a powder-burned finish on stringed wood instruments, (cigar box guitar, mountain dulcimer or ukulele built from kits).

Outdoors on a calm day:

Take an unstrung acoustic guitar or ukulele and patiently create a design in Pyrodex on either the face or back while laying flat with surface uppermost.
Copy a heavy contrast black and white picture or a free drawn design for inspiration.
(Think of the old iron filing picture puzzle where you picked up bits of filings with the magnetic stylus to "draw" a beard, hat, . . . whatever, on the face under the clear plastic cover.)

Use a soft artist brush, stick, anything to manipulate the grains into an image covering the surface.
Observe common sense safety, i.e. stand away from instrument when lighting a spot on one edge and the powder flash will carry it across the surface, burning darker where the Pyrodex was sitting thicker and lighter where the layer was thin.

After it's through burning, buff the surface gently to remove ash residue and spray a light overcoat of favorite clear finish. String 'er up and make some music.


That's the best use for Pyrodex, to my mind.


RCJ

Neat, I'd like to see that.