I get asked, so here goes.

[Dick Dastardly]

Ho the wire,

I often get inquiries for black powder loads for cartridges.  So, here goes.  I recommend measuring the distance from the bullet base to the crimp grove.  Then, fill the brass to between 1/16 to 1/8" more than that.  Simply compress the powder that much when you seat the lube/sized bullet.  That's it.  Whether you use FFFg or FFg depends on your preference.  I like FFFg when I want a little more oomph from my pistols.  Your rifle won't much care which you use.

Modern guns can easily stand the pressure, around 12,000 psi.  With my more fragile 1860 45 Cal open tops I prefer the Cowboy 45 Special brass.  My load with the 200 grain Big Lube J/P 45 bullets gives me very satisfactory flames and smoke without too much recoil.  My 45 Colt chambered rifle just doesn't care what load I shoot with it.

FWIW, I often shoot an entire annual 10 stage two day match and never clean between days.  My guns just keep on running with no need to do anything between stages to maintain function or accuracy.

That's how I do it.

DD-MDA

[hellgate]

Do your rifle 45 LC cases actually seal the chamber? I see so many 45 Colt '73s that spurt smoke out from the breech straight up but never see it from the 44-40s. I'm suspicious the 200 gr slug allows a pretty good pressure build up to swell the brass.

[Bunk Stagnerg]

Let me put in my 2 two cents here. With .45 Colt cases you will get blow back with either real gun powder or that fad powder stuff, unless you anneal (ug no fun) the case mouth which is a PITA to do but I have found no other way to stop blow back.

My solution was to fire form .44-40 cases to fit the .45 Colt chamber because they have a very thin case mouth and obturate nicely.

Making the cases is a project done by expanding the mouth enough to seat a .45 Colt  bullet than fire form the coke bottle shape cartridge.

I suspect annealing will be needed after a couple of reloads I am not sure. Since I have not shot my way through a thousand cases.

Those modified cases work like a charm in a rifle but there is a case head size problem and will NOT WORK in a revolver.
Yr' Obt' Svt'
Bunk

[Abilene]

...Those modified cases work like a charm in a rifle but there is a case head size problem and will NOT WORK in a revolver.
Yr' Obt' Svt'
Bunk

Howdy Bunk.  I don't get it.  Can you expound on this problem?

[Drydock]

Ah, to respond to DD, yep, you nailed it.  A case full of powder, lightly compressed, under a proper bullet with the correct lube.  And yes, I clean the guns after the match when I get home.



To address the side issue:  I use a full case of powder, under a .454 250+ grain bullet, and the case seals my chamber (Marlin 94 or Uberti Henry) just fine.  Though I usually use the S&W case to save a bit of powder.  A DD PRS bullet, btw.  3F in the shorter case.

[wildman1]

Howdy Bunk.  I don't get it.  Can you expound on this problem?

Don't want to step on Bunks toes but the 44-40 case rim is a larger diameter and will usually not chamber 6 in a revolver.
wM1

[Abilene]

Don't want to step on Bunks toes but the 44-40 case rim is a larger diameter and will usually not chamber 6 in a revolver.
wM1

They will fit in most SAA's.  Maybe Bunk is talking about a Ruger or conversion cylinder?

[Navy Six]

If I ever get the itch to try a 45 Colt lever action again it would probably be a Marlin. Both my Marlins in the straight walled case 38/357 run black powder fine. I had two Uberti 1866s' in 45 Colt and could only get maybe three stages in before functioning became problematic and the actions had to be hosed down. The loads were a 250 gr bullet on top of 35 grs 2F Goex. Those two Ubertis were converted to 38/40 and 44/40 and both the rifles and I couldn't be happier.

[Bunk Stagnerg]

This idea is for rifle rounds only the .44-40 case will NOT work in a revolver. Sorry, I thought I mentioned that but blow back is not much of a problem in a  revolver.
This is my method and is not copyrighted.
The process is simple
Start out with new brass. I used Star Line .44-40 brass because it is not necked down but is a straight wall case.

First slightly open the case mouth with a .44 special/.44 magnum neck expanding die. This was done on an RCBS Rock Chucker single stage press using the .44-40 shell holder. Use a Q-tip with a little case lube inside the case mouth.

Second step is to open the case down enough to seat a bullet using a .45 Colt neck expanding die. Use a bullet you like for depth of the expansion. My choice was a 180 grain RNFP and this is done in the Dillon 550B.

Third step is to charge the case. My choice was Trail Boss because it is a fairly high-pressure powder but you choose what you like. Loading data for .44-40 was used then seat and crimp the bullet.

The cases were fire formed in a Rossi '92 rifle chambered for .45 Colt. The fire forming started with the minimum charge and worked up carefully until the case properly forms.

A retired gun plumber friend of mine goes directly to the second step on his Dillon press and opens the case mouth in one step. I had no success doing this perhaps because of the rim dimension differences between the .44-40 and .45 Colt. and mis- alignment in the shell plate on the Dillon.
This is my method it works for me it may not be the best way but experiment and find out what works for you.
Yr' Obt' Svt
Bunk

[Coffinmaker]

My turn!!  My Turn!!  My Turn?? 

Retired Gunplumber Friend chiming in here.  At no time in the past Lustrum or two, nor currently, have I suggested solutions for Blow-By in Revolvers.  Neither has Bunk.  Blow-By is kind of a non-issue in revolvers.  It still happens, just not as much.

Heavy loads and Bit 'ol heavy bullets only mitigate Blow-By in 45 Colt cases.  Furthermore, it's not necessary.  There are two methods of ELIMINATING Blow-By.  One is to start with 44-40 virgin brass (you can start with used) because I like virgin brass.  When resized to 45 the first time it will look really funky.  Never fear.  It will fire for just fine.  The 44-40-45 will seal the chamber just fine.  Even with light loads.

Two is to start with any of the straight wall cases for any caliber (skip 38s).  Anneal them.  Once annealed, they will seal the chamber just fine.  I am shooting several rifles that have been thru 6 or more matches with NO C.R.A.P. back in the Carrier Block and only a wet patch thru the bore needed.  I do chamber a fired case to keep the PAM out of the action.

Both methods work and work very well indeed.  I do cut the extra steps out of the fire forming/resizing process for 44-40-45, I just run the press carefully.  It works well for me.  I currently don't know how many firings the annealed cases will run before requiring a re-anneal.  Same same the 44-40-55s.

Hide and Watch