My First Holster

[Rube Burrows]

Okay, I finished up my first holster and my first attempt at anything leather related. It was new and interesting. I made lots of mistakes as seen in the finished work. I would make several changes throughout for the next time I make one.

I made this slim jim style holster to fit my 1851 RM Conversion

Here are some photos for you to critique, give me pointers on, ignore or just plain laugh at

My sewing started off rough for some reason. Not sure what happened but I think it got better for the most part as I went on.

Some parts would not take dye. I think it was from the wax on the thread that got on places it was not supposed to be.

The bottom seam where the stitch line is would not hardly take dye. I think it was from the beeswax that I put on before dying.

is it best to dye before stitching together? Seems so because unless you're dip dying you cant really dye inside the holster. 

If you seen my other thread you seen that I said I had a hard time getting the holes punched for the thread on the thicker parts where the welt is.

My two stitch groovers kept jamming up with leather and that was causing problems.

I feel I learned things to change next time but if there is glaring mistakes that I missed please chime in.

I marked this one with the number 1, my initials, and the year so hopefully down the road I will be able to look back and see how much I hopefully have improved over time. Maybe I will get a maker's mark if work gets worthy.

Sorry for the rambling.

[Rube Burrows]

More pics.

[Rube Burrows]

More

[Rube Burrows]

One more.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Looking good. Yes, your stitching did improve along the way. Congrats, you did a fine job, there.

If you glued the holster prior to stitching, that could be what is preventing the dye from taking along the seam. You may want to try lightly sanding that with fine sandpaper (+-320) to see if you can get enough off for the dye to penetrate. Then run along that with a cotton dauber dipped in the dye.

I don't have pics of my first holster but I do have #3. Yes, it is good to go back and see how you do over time.

By the way, with every one I make, I think of improvements for the next one. That seems to be a constant with almost everyone. That will probably never change, no matter how many you do.

So, #1 is a solid thumbs-up, pard.

[Rube Burrows]

Looking good. Yes, your stitching did improve along the way. Congrats, you did a fine job, there.

If you glued the holster prior to stitching, that could be what is preventing the dye from taking along the seam. You may want to try lightly sanding that with fine sandpaper (+-320) to see if you can get enough off for the dye to penetrate. Then run along that with a cotton dauber dipped in the dye.

I don't have pics of my first holster but I do have #3. Yes, it is good to go back and see how you do over time.

By the way, with every one I make, I think of improvements for the next one. That seems to be a constant with almost everyone. That will probably never change, no matter how many you do.

So, #1 is a solid thumbs-up, pard.

Thanks. I'll definitely give that a try and see if it improves it. I did glue first and it was messier than I would like. Think I'll try to find a smaller bottle to keep some in that will hopefully make it a little neater.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Thanks. I'll definitely give that a try and see if it improves it. I did glue first and it was messier than I would like. Think I'll try to find a smaller bottle to keep some in that will hopefully make it a little neater.

You can leave a little extra leather outside the stitch line to trim off after it's glued and stitched. That would take care of that. Glue, stitch, trim, bevel, dye & burnish in that order.

[Rube Burrows]

You can leave a little extra leather outside the stitch line to trim off after it's glued and stitched. That would take care of that. Glue, stitch, trim, bevel, dye & burnish in that order.

My order was a little off which I realized afterwords. Next one I'll be sure to follow that order. I appreciate all the help.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Glad to help. I'm looking forward to seeing what you do next.

[Smokey Dave]

I'm a noob at leatherwork too, and I think you did a great job.

[Rube Burrows]

I'm a noob at leatherwork too, and I think you did a great job.

Thanks.

[Johnny McCrae]

You did a very good job especially for a first Holster. It will only get better and better as you make more Holsters. That's a good idea marking your first Holster. I still have the first Holster I made.

We look forward to seeing your future projects.

[Rube Burrows]

You did a very good job especially for a first Holster. It will only get better and better as you make more Holsters. That's a good idea marking your first Holster. I still have the first Holster I made.

We look forward to seeing your future projects.

Thanks.

[1961MJS]

You can leave a little extra leather outside the stitch line to trim off after it's glued and stitched. That would take care of that. Glue, stitch, trim, bevel, dye & burnish in that order.

Hi, probably in Chuck Barrow's video, but I remember seeing a good suggestion (that I will try soon) to fully trim the front of the holster, tool it, glue, stitch, trim the backside off, bevel, dye and burnish.  That made sense to me, but like I said no experiments yet.

On a second note, I think you have to dye first when using Vinegaroon.  I haven't had to touch up my belts since in 10 minutes its black from front to back.

Later

[Trailrider]

This is how I do it:
1. Lay out pattern on leather.
2. Edge groove where stitches will go.
3. Use pounce wheel to mark locations for stitch holes.
4. Dye leather inside and out and allow to dry thoroughly. I use Fiebing's alcohol-based dye.
5. Apply LIGHT coating of Lexol(R) Leather Conditioner.  I use a spray bottle and wipe off excess with soft cloth. Do NOT overdo it! Allow to dry.
6. With black dye, apply light application of Fiebing's Bag Kote or Tan Kote to prevent the black from rubbing off.
7. Sew belt loop to body piece.
8. Glue edges of seam.  I use #7 x 1 inch copper clad nails every 10th prepunched stitch holes.
9. Sew main seam.
10. Sand main seam smooth.
11. Edge seam
12. Dye seam and when dry, apply Sole & Heel Edge Dressing and burnish with a smooth edger or dowel.

Your first effort was well done.  You will improve with each additional project.
Stay well!

[Holsterguy]

Good job! Way better my first one. One thing I would suggest is to keep at it. If you do it on again off again like me, you forget sooo much.(could be an age thing🙄) Each time you start a new one its like learning all over again.
These guys here are very helpful!

[Rube Burrows]

This is how I do it:
1. Lay out pattern on leather.
2. Edge groove where stitches will go.
3. Use pounce wheel to mark locations for stitch holes.
4. Dye leather inside and out and allow to dry thoroughly. I use Fiebing's alcohol-based dye.
5. Apply LIGHT coating of Lexol(R) Leather Conditioner.  I use a spray bottle and wipe off excess with soft cloth. Do NOT overdo it! Allow to dry.
6. With black dye, apply light application of Fiebing's Bag Kote or Tan Kote to prevent the black from rubbing off.
7. Sew belt loop to body piece.
8. Glue edges of seam.  I use #7 x 1 inch copper clad nails every 10th prepunched stitch holes.
9. Sew main seam.
10. Sand main seam smooth.
11. Edge seam
12. Dye seam and when dry, apply Sole & Heel Edge Dressing and burnish with a smooth edger or dowel.

Your first effort was well done.  You will improve with each additional project.
Stay well!

Always interested in hearing and seeing how others go through the process. Much like when I am doing wet plate photography making tintypes and ambrotypes. It's a pretty set process but many ways to attack it along the way. It always helps to see and hear what others are implementing.

Are you saying that every tenth stitch you also put a copper nail?

[Rube Burrows]

Good job! Way better my first one. One thing I would suggest is to keep at it. If you do it on again off again like me, you forget sooo much.(could be an age thing🙄) Each time you start a new one its like learning all over again.
These guys here are very helpful!

I have two double shoulders so I am def planning on making some more holsters and also a few knife sheaths. Maybe some other things but will just have to see.

[Trailrider]

Always interested in hearing and seeing how others go through the process. Much like when I am doing wet plate photography making tintypes and ambrotypes. It's a pretty set process but many ways to attack it along the way. It always helps to see and hear what others are implementing.

Are you saying that every tenth stitch you also put a copper nail?

Only temporarily to align the holes in each side of the seam. Although I have an industrial sewing machine that I use for pre-punching the main seam holes and sewing on belt loops, I hand-stitch using a Landis hook (a sewing machine needle with the eye open on one side) in a hand haft. The nails are just to hold everything in place.  As I sew up to within one or two holes of each nail, I pull the next nail out. (Otherwise I run the risk of sticking myself with the nail points!  ) The nails are just an assembly tool, NOT permanently installed.

[Rube Burrows]

Only temporarily to align the holes in each side of the seam. Although I have an industrial sewing machine that I use for pre-punching the main seam holes and sewing on belt loops, I hand-stitch using a Landis hook (a sewing machine needle with the eye open on one side) in a hand haft. The nails are just to hold everything in place.  As I sew up to within one or two holes of each nail, I pull the next nail out. (Otherwise I run the risk of sticking myself with the nail points!  ) The nails are just an assembly tool, NOT permanently installed.

Gotcha. Thanks.