Finally Looking To Get Started

[Rube Burrows]

Well, I have been collecting some of the tools and things that I will need to finally give leather work a try. Most of my tools are in and I have two shoulders that should be here tomorrow.

I am sure that I will mess a few things up and that the end result will not likely be all that great but hoping that I enjoy the process.

My first project will be attempting to make a couple holsters for my 1851 Conversions since none of my 1851 percussion revolver holsters will hold the Conversions.

Will prob. be just a simple Slim Jim style holster.

One thing I am curious about are border stamps and other tooling stamps to dress them up just a tad more.

Can ya'll recommend an easier border stamp design that a complete beginner can do?

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Howdy, Rube. Good to see you getting started with leather working. There's not a lot that can be more rewarding than that.

There are a lot of simple borders you can do. Take a look at Tandy's border stamps. The live link isn't working so here's the direct link: https://tandyleather.com/collections/tools/stamping-carving+stamps_border-stamps

This one was done with a swivel knife cut, beveled on the inside then stamped with a D436 (actually an old version of that but it's almost the same). After that I ran a beader around the outside of the cut line. Ignore the basketweave on the inside and you have a nice looking border. You can vary that with almost any border stamp or textured bevel stamp. I also ran the beader along the edge of the leather where a sltitch line would go on a holster.



If you want a little more texture inside the border, you can make evenly spaced swivel knife cuts (any spacing) in two directions, diagonally or straight across. On this one, I also used a border stamp on the outside of the beader as well.



One more example. On this one, I stamped with a small veiner outside the beader.



OK, one more. this one is actually a copy (sort of, using modern stamps) of a border design from the 1800's. It's two swivel knife cuts, beveled and beaded, border stamps outside that (the very outside one is a small veiner) with a wide veiner stamped across itself in between. Just about any stamp along between the lines will do fine.



The possibilities are endless. Practice a little on scraps until you have the pattern you like. I make coaster sets to try out ideas. Some look good, some I toss before anyone can see them. I look forward to seeing what you come up with.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Finally, you can make two parallel cuts with a swivel knife, beader along those and stamp inbetween with any texture stamp.





I like using the floral stamps for accent, but you don't necessarily need to do that. On the second one, I ran a stitch marker out a bit along both sides to give it a little more accent instead of beading.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

If you want to make a floral accent, you can just stamp a center and run a veiner around that for pedals. This one is done with a center dot, three veiner stamps and a bevel.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Here's an example of two different border stamps on either side of a knife cut that was beveled and beaded.



Now have fun and experiment to find something simple you like.

[Rube Burrows]

Thanks for all the great replies. I really enjoy seeing what you're talking about.

What is the "beaded" you keep mentioning though?

[Marshal Will Wingam]

They're listed as creasers on the Osborne site. I've always known them as beaders but basically they make a bead along the edge of the leather. Here's a closeup that shows I used one along every edge, bullet loops included, as well as between the lines of border stamping. They give a finished edge to things but they can also be used along a swivel knife cut to make a raised looking bead.



Here's the listing at Osborne for them. You should be able to get them at any leather supply that sells tools. They give you a finished looking edge.

https://osborneleathertools.com/product_details.php?pid=203

[Johnny McCrae]

Beautiful work! Great information along with great great examples of stamping.

Many thanks for sharing your expertise with us.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Thanks, Johnny. I personally like a simple border on most of my rigs. One of my favorites is a meander stamp. The thing takes some practice to get it even, though.

[Rube Burrows]

Again, thank you for not only the info but also the photos. A photo really helps. I also just recently got in the Packing Iron book so I will be looking through there plenty.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

We're mostly visual. A photo says way more than you can describe with words. Glad to help.

Packing Iron has inspired many of my holsters. I love that book. The second holster I posted is almost directly out of PI, other than being a lefty. The black one above that was also inspired from that one. The border on the round coaster is almost directly from the book, too.

[Rube Burrows]

Okay, So I am almost done with my first holster. It has been an experience for sure. I am not sure I will be able to get my actual gun in it once its all sewed up. I was looking at a book and it said when making the pattern outline the gun and then ad 3/4" to it. I did that and it may still be too tight.

Once I added the welt I found that I could not poke a needle through both pieces of leather and the stitching chisels would go in but it took putting it in a vise and some real manpower to get it back out. How is one supposed to get through that much leather? I ended up drilling it with a drill bit.

[1961MJS]

Hi

I use a cheap Harbor Freight Drill Press with a needle stuck in it.  Coat the needle heavily with Beeswax and that seems to work.

Later

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Stick your awl in beeswax and it'll slide right through. I do that everry 4 or 5 holes. If the awl is too short, you may need to get or make a longer one.

This one (which I made)

has a considerably longer tip than this one (which I bought)

The photos make them look similar like round tips but they have diamond shaped tips.

[Rube Burrows]

Thanks.

Another problem I ran into was when using the stitch groover. It would work for a piece of the line and then the leather would jam in the hole and not go anymore. I could not get the leather out and basically had to burn it out and use a small sewing needle to get it out. It kept doing it though. What am I doing wrong? I tried two different tools.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I've never had my stitch groover plug up. Is it possible that your leather is belly leather or at least further down the side into the lesser quality stuff?

Other than that, I can't think of why you sould have such a problem. I've cut stitch grooves on both dry and wet leather with good results. I will say that belly leather does not cut as well and can bunch up ahead of the groover.

[1961MJS]

Hi

Try turning the insert deal around, it's meant to go in one direction.

Don't ask how I know this....     

Later

[Rube Burrows]

I've never had my stitch groover plug up. Is it possible that your leather is belly leather or at least further down the side into the lesser quality stuff?

Other than that, I can't think of why you sould have such a problem. I've cut stitch grooves on both dry and wet leather with good results. I will say that belly leather does not cut as well and can bunch up ahead of the groover.

It's a double shoulder from Weaver Leather.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

It's a double shoulder from Weaver Leather.

A Weaver shoulder is good leather so that shouldn't be the problem.

Perhaps you may want to experiment with the angle you hold the tool and how firm your pressure on the leather is. The only thing I can think of outside of that is that maybe the tips aren't sharp. Mine cut a nice, long, clean thread of leather when I use them.

[Trailrider]

For the groover problem, get some "piano wire" from your local hobby shop or hardware store. It needs to be small enough (maybe .020") to go through the eye in the groover.  Use that to clean out the hole.

As to going through thick leather, predrilling holes in the leather is the way to go unless you have an industrial class sewing machine.  You do have to watch that the drill bit doesn't drift to one side.  I generally drill one layer, then match with the next, using the drilled layer, mark with an awl and then drill the next layers separately.  I do have an industrial machine, and I still have to be careful that the needles don't drift.