New vaquero hammers!!

[Baltimore Ed]

I swapped out my original flat vaquero hammers on my two 4.5 in ss vaqueros with super blackhawk wide spur hammers today. The very first time that I had torn them down that far. The internet can be a helping hand when it?s not being evil. Not that hard at all and I didn?t even peek today after watching the video the other day. Boy were they nasty inside, turned my fingers black. Cleaned things up with bronze wool. But I am having issues with my buffalo horn grips, the ss grip frame is rusting under the grips. I assume its the horn holding moisture or chemicals from the horn attacking the metal. Don?t know how there is moisture in the safe and I didn?t think ss would rust but that?s what it sure looks like. I?m wondering if I used true oil on the inside of the grips if that would seal them? Got any ideas? Pictures soon.
I like the look so I might have to put them on my other vaqueros.

[Coffinmaker]

My suggestion would be to clean thoroughly then Clear Spar Varnish.  If that fails, follow up with "clean and strip thoroughly" then spread a thin coat of clear epoxy.

[Professor Marvel]

Greetings My Dear New Best Friend Ed

Based on my limited experience making knives for fun (and no profit)

I agree with my good friend, coconspirator and hacksaw enabler Coffine:
It is most likely the horn.

I have had good results with sealing antler and horn with
Thin 2 part epoxy
Urathane varnish
Thin slowset superglue. The cheapest stuff is bestforthis.

Whichever you use, it stinks like you are going to be kicked out if you did it in the house.
Wear rubber gloves.
Maybe a respirator mask, If you?ve gotten  sensitive to chemicals like me.

You want the grips to be slightly warm ... like 100 deg or so but not like in a hotbox.
Spread the goo with a disposable brush and try to get it to absorb.

If there is still some liquid on the surface after a few minutes, wipe it off, or you will have to file it flush later, which would really make you upset with me cuz the grips wont fit right anymore.
They still may need to be sanded for best fit.

Superglue spread over such a large surface is somewhat nasty, but is really good as a thin sealer,
And doesn,t seem to leave much that needs a lot of sanding.

Try it first on something else, wood fer instance, then step up to some scrap horn or antler.
That way you?ll get a feel for it before you mess up you expensive grips.

As always, your milage may vary.

Hope this helps
Prof marple

[Baltimore Ed]

Heres a photo and they are eagle grips.

[Coffinmaker]

I'm not so sure that's RUST.  Looks more like color bleeding from the grips.  The "fix" is the same though.  Clean the grip frame thoroughly either way.

[Professor Marvel]

Without eyes on the ground (gads that must be uncomfortable! ) , Again I agree with the former professional Coffin!

The offending ?stuff? on the frame looks like ?grip crap? as opposed to rust.
In this case , and seeing the backs of the horn grips, I would opine (with no guarantees) that
Thin superglue spread thin might just be the ticket .

Always Wear Eye Protection, Use Gloves, Good luck, God Speed, Safe Journey, and
Write When You find Work.

Merry Christmas
Prof Marvel

[Baltimore Ed]

Eagle grips ?reply? was to oil the metal. Not a lot of help. Thinking that it would be better to actually seal them I decided to give the horns a couple of coats of tru-oil so that any moisture, perspiration or salt can?t get between the grips and the frame to get absorbed by the porous horn and attack the metal. The perspiration from my hand [duelist] has got to be what caused it as the worst is on the back, less on the front and none on the top or bottom.
Another thing. I really like the wide spur hammers on my vaqueros. They look so much better than those flat oem things. It was easy to swap them out except for the loading gate spring, so I think that I will replace a couple more. The first of January is payday. Good old MidwayUSA.

Couldn?t wait, MidwayUSA order placed for 3 more hammers and 200x.308 bullets for my .300blkout.

[Mustang Gregg]

SASSy Shawna's .44 S&W's

[Major 2]

With due respect to the Good Professor and confidant Coffinmaker

I'd  humbly recommend  Renaissance Wax , you can use it for metal, wood, bone or horn & leather.
I discovered handed it to use many years ago doing some museum conservation work.

All of my guns, especially the antique Milsurp's get a  light coat after cleaning.

I also like Skidmores for wood & leather finishing and Johnson Finish was for wood ....but Renaissance Wax for preservation .

no dog in the fight, just 30 years of my 2 cents worth opinion 


https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-Micro-Crystalline-Wax-Polish-65/dp/B001DSZWEM/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=Renaissance+Wax&qid=1594991182&sr=8-4

[Professor Marvel]

My Good Major -

OMG yes RenWax!
I forgot, "always ask  the Professional Rot Stoppers"
pricey but in Fort Snelling, MN museum armory I have seen nasty original 179x Militia Muskets coated lightly with the stuff
and it stopped all further corrosion!  Of course the hired help only carried Italians repops, 'cuz Minnesotans are not stoopid :-)

I will have to bight the bullet and get some....'
soon.
real soon.

yhs
prf mvl

With due respect to the Good Professor and confidant Coffinmaker

I'd  humbly recommend  Renaissance Wax , you can use it for metal, wood, bone or horn & leather.
I discovered handed it to use many years ago doing some museum conservation work.

All of my guns, especially the antique Milsurp's get a  light coat after cleaning.

I also like Skidmores for wood & leather finishing and Johnson Finish was for wood ....but Renaissance Wax for preservation .

no dog in the fight, just 30 years of my 2 cents worth opinion 


https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-Micro-Crystalline-Wax-Polish-65/dp/B001DSZWEM/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=Renaissance+Wax&qid=1594991182&sr=8-4

[Dave T]

And keep in mind it's called "stain-less", not "rust-proof". (smile)

Dave

[wildman1]

PM sent.
wM1