building a Sharps

[rbertalotto]

I'm liking this!.....

[Kent Shootwell]

The forearm and lock screws need escutcheons so I made them and a tool to cut the mortices.

IMG_0476 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
IMG_0479 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

[Coffinmaker]

  YUM   

[Baltimore Ed]

I love people with true talent. Keep it up Kent. You might not Shootwell [which I don?t believe] but you sure can buildwell.

[Kent Shootwell]

Ed, when I show up at a shoot everybody is happy because they know they won?t be in last place! 

[Buckaroo Lou]

I can only wish I had the talent and equipment to do this kind of stuff. I admire your talent and abilities and must admit i'm envious. Waiting anxiously for photos of the final product.

[Kent Shootwell]

The forearm is all roughed out and carved for the Hartford tip. A bit more refining and then I'll pour the tip.

IMG_0480 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

[dusty texian]

Looking good Ken . Going to be a very good looking rifle .,,,DT

[Professor Marvel]

How art thou accomplishing the stock carving?
Do you have a jig, or a copycarver for your router?

yhs
prof marvel

[Kent Shootwell]

The carving is done with two chisels and the tool I made for the escutcheons. The primary one is about 3/8? wide and the other about 1/16? wide. Then a small file to smooth the edges.
I poured the tip yesterday and failed. The tablet backing I used as a form didn?t conform correctly to the stock and produced two low spots that ruined the casting. I?m sure it can?t be saved so will dig up another piece of wood for the forearm. It?s been a long time since the last Hartford tip I poured and the first one that didn?t work. Good thing it?s just for ?fun??

[Professor Marvel]

Oh, that is beautiful work! My pathetic attempts at chisel inlet work look pretty bad...

Rather than wasting all the work on the wood, could you possibley fill in the low spots with ?soldering? as tho you were going auto body ?lead work?,  using the same pewterish material?

Yhs
Prof Marvel

[Kent Shootwell]

I did try while the metal was still warm to solder it but was unsuccessful. A buddy has a lot of walnut that is from 5 to 30 years in storage so he gave me a chunk that is a close match in color to mine. Removing the metal from the wood needed to be done so as a challenge I tried to do it with out damaging it. Very low expectations of success yet worth a go. It came out fairly good so I figured maybe it could be salvaged or at lest it?s good practice. Surprise, surprise, it worked. Some careful detailing should bring it up to standards. Later today after I calm down I?ll do the finial shaping and start the polishing.

[Baltimore Ed]

I firmly believe that it?s the little details done well that make an average build into something special.

[Kent Shootwell]

Here it is polished enough for now.
IMG_0484 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

[Buckaroo Lou]

Looks fantastic! I have never poured a pewter nose cap and have no idea how it is done. I am sure there might be tutorials on youtube. How does it keep from burning the wood?

[Baltimore Ed]

WOW!

[Kent Shootwell]

The melting temperature of tin is 477 degrees. The metal I use has a bit of antimony in it as well. When the pour is made it cools quickly and doesn?t burn the wood at all. The whole cap is on average about 1/8? thick. I use tablet backing for the form along with bits of wood all taped on to pour into. The tape is the only thing that can?t be reused.

[Professor Marvel]

That came out beautifully! Well done!

[Coffinmaker]

   SUPERB   

[Kent Shootwell]

Yesterdays work went well. The action is roughed in and just needs seated back to full contact and screwed down. Then the lock plate can be set in. Good figure is starting to show as the wood gets closer to finial size.

IMG_0487 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr