gunoholic

[Major 2]

Checking, I see SDS does indeed import Tisas

[Major 2]

I think PSA carries/carried both brands.  But SDS imports the Tisas pistols.

Your correct Sir

[DeaconKC]

Finally got the little Tisas home. I think it will like it here. At least it will be cared for properly.

[Johnny McCrae]

we don't have a 'Like" button so I'll say... Very nice.

[Professor Marvel]

Deacon: like


If it were mine, I would strip the finish and "reblue" using the caustic soda formula.

Let me know if you need the recide for that blue method. It comes out a very durable very dark matt blue that has a vague "militaryish" look.

Yhs
praeceptor miraculum

[Professor Marvel]

Here is one version of the caustic blue recipe

What you'll need:

Simple Green (or some other strong aqueous cleaner-degreaser)
lye (Sodium hydroxide; "Red Devil" brand lye works, sold as a drain opener. Be sure it is white and pure, no funky colored crystals.)
potassium nitrate ("Stump Remover" in the U.S., sold at hardware stores)
distilled water
container. Stainless steel or cermic lined. NOT ALUMINUM!
heat source
thermometer that can read up to 300 f./150 C.

Prepare the blue salts. The mixture is (by WEIGHT)
2 parts lye,
2 parts water,
 1 part potassium nitrate.

Fill a beaker or any suitable container (NOT aluminum) with 500ml water, 500 grams.
 Weigh out 500 grams lye.
Slowly add this to the water; it'll get very hot.

Obligatory warning: lye will melt flesh and/or blind you. Goggles, gloves, etc. This is a process for "big boys." Also DO IT OUTSIDE

Turn on the heat... bring the solution up to maybe 130 C.
The boiling temp is raised due to the lye.
Slowly add 250 grams potassium nitrate.
There is no noticeable reaction. Stir with a glass rod to dissolve.

In the mean-time, you can prep your parts. Wipe them down with acetone or similar. Then, what I did (and it seemed to work well) was put them in a pot, added pure Simple Green, and heated this to a near boil. Let them soak for 15 to 30 minutes at least. Grease and oil will be stripped. This is VERY important... surface prep and degreasing is 90% of the battle.

or brake cleaner. Or solvent or whatever

When the blue salts reach 275 F / 135 C, they are ready.

The parts should already be hung on stainless wire.

Remove them from the degreaser, and dip/swirl in clean, distilled water.
Shake excess water off.
Then, hang them in the hot blue pot.

Hack your watch. The reaction takes time.
Keep the heat between 135 C to no hotter than 145 C.

A good heat source is a plug-in hot plate or similar.
While the parts are cooking, get your rinse water ready... any container that can hold a liter or so of water.

After about 5 minutes, it should be noticeably black.
After 15 to 20 minutes, it'll be done.
Rinse them off in your rinse tank, then give them a thorough washing, paying attention to screw holes and such.

After the wash, you can improve the finish by buffing vigorously with an oiled rag, or 0000 steel wool.


Stolem from https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/caustic-hot-blue.13837/

Yhs
praeceptor miraculum

[DeaconKC]

Thanks Perfessor for that interesting formula. This poor little beast will get the slide stripped, for some reason the perpetrator of this abomination only seems to have subjected the slide to their malfeasance. That will make the stripping much easier. My back has finally improved, so work will probably begin Thursday on it. Depending on what is lurking under the surface, I was planning on using my old standby Oxphoblue from Brownell's. I have had good results in the past by heating the cleaned piece then several coats of the blue.

[Major E A Sterner]

Deacon,
if you can, please take before, during and after pictures so we can see the progress. Thanks

[DeaconKC]

Be happy to Major.