Spencer pilgrim here

[Oregon Bill]

Fellas, I've had Merrill and Maynard originals that I could and did shoot, and a Burnside that wasn't fully functional, but I have always wanted a Spencer from the day I first found an old, tarnished copper rimfire Spencer case in the sagebrush in the desert. So I am hoping to order a .56-50 ArmiSport after Christmas and join the company of Spencer shooters here.
My understanding is that I'll need a set of Lyman dies, latest production; some Starline brass; and an appropriate bullet mold that drops a .512-.513 soft lead bullet of about 350 grains, that I can lube with SPG. I prefer to work with BP, and would rather "have no truck" with pyrodex or 777 as it is the history that interests me.
What are the best three or four molds for accurate and authentic bullet profiles?
Who's the best source for a well-priced ArmiSport Spencer?
Any other advice?
I tip my chapeau, gentlemen.

[Harve Curry]

Goodmorning Oregon Bill,
There's some for sale on this site. $817 I think it was. If I was'nt so stuck on my original I'd get it.
I like packin the old gun around because of the history I guess. I'm going out at 6:30 see if I can find a cow elk. Rancher gave me a tag but the elk have since made themselves scarce.

Theres plenty info here about different molds and loads. Good luck, Spencers are fun.

[Dakota Widowmaker]

You cannot use a "original" bullet profile, as they were cast with a spire point and you would be loading them into a mag tube with other centerfire ammo. ("KA-BOOM")

There are some good molds out there that will prevent you from experieincing this situation first hand.

Rapine makes a mold with a very generous lube grove and good flat nose.
Buffalo Arms Company also sells a mold that works well.
Lyman makes a mould that throughs a good bullet, but, has smaller groves.

These mold all put the bullet at a lenght of 1.56 or there abouts. Short and stubby.

Myself, and others, use modified Lee 50-70 moulds based on thier 450gr or 500gr bullet design. we just lop off the bottom 2 or 3 lube groves and crimp on the front driving band.

I have found that my modified bullet will drop a good solid 350gr with 30:1 alloy and travels right around 900fps with 45gr of GOEX FFFg and magnum rifle primers. Using 45gr of 777, I get closer to 1200fps.

I shoot pyrodex, as its in the "middle of the road" at around 1050-1100fps.

Here is a pic of what the results look like from the finished loaded ammo.


The bullet on the far left is a 335gr bullet from one mould, the next is a 350gr one from my modifield Lee mould, the 3rd one is cast from the Rapine mould, and the loaded bullet at the right is a Lee bullet in a finished 56-50 case. (1.62" OAL, which is VERY similar to original spec...except that its a flat point and uses centerfire brass)

[Oregon Bill]

Thanks for the replies fellas. Harve, you're down in NM, if I recall. Think we've talked about young Antrim on another forum. Wish you the very best of luck on taking an elk.
Dakota, I have followed a number of your posts here and appreciate all your reports as you have gotten to know your Taylor's Spencer. Guess maybe that Lyman 340 is a little shy of lube-carrying capacity, eh?

[French Jack]

The three lube grooves on the Lyman 515139 hold at least as much lube as the two grooves on the shortened Lee bullet.  I have had no problem with feeding of any sort when using the Lyman bullet, and it shoots very well.  I have a custom mould for a 360 gr. .512 bullet from LBT/FIG that also works well.  The LBT bullet has a blunter profile than the Lyman, with a larger meplat.  Length from crimp groove forward is .430.  This gives an OAL that my Taylor's Spencer likes.

[Crazeyiven]

French Jack-

What is your overall length for your Taylor 56-50 with the Lyman bullet?

Have tried several setting (OAL) and still have bad feeding.

Thanks!

David

[matt45]

Forgive my interruption, but I have tinkered some w/the lyman bullet- O.A.L. from 1.52 to 1.56

One thing I found helped a bunch was a little bit of Gun Grease on all bearing surfaces, and finally One must take the lever all the way down- at least on mine there is about 1/2 inch that if not fully engaged prevents reliable feeding.

Don't know if this helps, but it has worked for me

[Crazeyiven]

Matt45-

Thanks for the interuption!  Need all the help I can find!

I'll give your range a try.

I have not taken the action out of the gun yet.  But think I will today.  I try the grease idea while I have it down.

Also, it seem that what I believe to be the ejector (bright finished metal that keeps the bullet from going forward while the lever is dwn) seem to be where the hang up is.  I do not know how that piece is supposed to function.  But when I force the lever back up, it takes a big chunk out of the nose of amy bullet that I have tried (except the lee 450 set a 1.62...it feeds like the action is empty).

Maybe something is too tight or stuck.  Will take a look.

Still have not fired the gun, or tried the jacketed bullets.  I finally gave up and cut off a bit of the bottom of the crimping die.  Still will not crimp the jackets.

Thanks again for your help!

David

[French Jack]

You might need to shorten the seating die more.  I took mine down to where the radius on the die mouth meets the threads.Overal length with the Lyman bullet is 1.515, and with the LBT bullet it is 1.530. 
You may have a problem with the bullet guide on top of the block.  It may be rough and the spring may be sticky.  Take it off and check the underside for burrs.

Hope this helps.

[Crazeyiven]

French Jack-

Thanks for the response.  I will try the 1.515 OAL.  Got to be a OAL that will work for this thing!

I got close to the threads on the die...may have to take it down more!

Thanks again,

David