Yellow Slicker Rejuvenation

[Flinch Morningwood]

Looking to update my slicker's waterproof-ness.

Have heard Armor-All and Kiwi Camp Dry...

I know that folks on here are pretty hesitant to offer their opinions - but I am hoping some can overcome that and offer their advice.

Thanks!

[Cliff Fendley]

Well I can't tell you what to use but I do have an opinion based on personal experience as what not to use.

I would not use armor-all on anything I own ever again. I've had some bad experiences with it. It causes rubber to dry rot even though it's supposed to protect it.

I was told by a friend in the auto industry that sells tires it would do that and sure enough started paying attention noticing my show vehicles and trailer that never got driven to wear out the tires had the tires dry rot on the outside, the side that was visible and I always cleaned with armorall. Vehicles sit in a garage so nothing to do with sun. Also treated a pair of my old Mickey boots with armorall and the pair I was wearing and used armor-all on all dry rotted and came apart but the extra pair I hadn't been wearing are still fine.

Same thing with some front tractor tires, put a set on my pulling truck that I built in the early 90s and tires that were put on a tractor around the same time, same tires, are still running on the tractor today but the ones on the pulling truck dry rotted away a few years ago even though it even stayed out of the sun. Difference is the pulling truck was always cleaned and armor-all on tires so it looked good at events and the tires on the tractor have never seen any special treatment.

[Johnny McCrae]

Skidmores has a product for waterproofing leather. I'm not sure if it would work on your Slicker. You may want to call Skidmores and describe the type of material your slicker is made out of. They are very helpful.

Here is a link to this product: http://www.skidmores.com/proddetail.asp?prod=wp

Phone number: 1-800-785-2466 or 1-360-379-6385

[St. George]

'Camp-Dry' works well on nylon/canvas tentage and the waterproofing of issue Jungle Boots - I can attest to that.

Once you clean and dry the article - use talcum powder to ensure it doesn't adhere to itself when you fold it.

Scouts Out!

[greyhawk]

Well I can't tell you what to use but I do have an opinion based on personal experience as what not to use.

I would not use armor-all on anything I own ever again. I've had some bad experiences with it. It causes rubber to dry rot even though it's supposed to protect it.

I was told by a friend in the auto industry that sells tires it would do that and sure enough started paying attention noticing my show vehicles and trailer that never got driven to wear out the tires had the tires dry rot on the outside, the side that was visible and I always cleaned with armorall. Vehicles sit in a garage so nothing to do with sun. Also treated a pair of my old Mickey boots with armorall and the pair I was wearing and used armor-all on all dry rotted and came apart but the extra pair I hadn't been wearing are still fine.

Same thing with some front tractor tires, put a set on my pulling truck that I built in the early 90s and tires that were put on a tractor around the same time, same tires, are still running on the tractor today but the ones on the pulling truck dry rotted away a few years ago even though it even stayed out of the sun. Difference is the pulling truck was always cleaned and armor-all on tires so it looked good at events and the tires on the tractor have never seen any special treatment.

Cliff
   I second the NO vote on armour-all, my missus "helped" me get ready for a (work) trip away, got in MY car and cleaned the dash, she oversprayed armour-all onto the inside of the windscreen, I am a freak for clean windscreens on long trips, and for two years, try as I might I could not clean that cr@p off the inside of my windscreen, tried every dang thing I could think of and that smear just kept on annoying me.     

[Flinch Morningwood]

Ended up going with Kiwi Camp-Dry.

Spread the coat out and gave it a good coating according to directions.  Smelled pretty strongly for a few days until it cured.

Now - no smell, doesn't stick to itself and sheds water like a ducks back.

Well worth the $9.99.

[greyhawk]

Well I can't tell you what to use but I do have an opinion based on personal experience as what not to use.

I would not use armor-all on anything I own ever again. I've had some bad experiences with it. It causes rubber to dry rot even though it's supposed to protect it.

I was told by a friend in the auto industry that sells tires it would do that and sure enough started paying attention noticing my show vehicles and trailer that never got driven to wear out the tires had the tires dry rot on the outside, the side that was visible and I always cleaned with armorall. Vehicles sit in a garage so nothing to do with sun. Also treated a pair of my old Mickey boots with armorall and the pair I was wearing and used armor-all on all dry rotted and came apart but the extra pair I hadn't been wearing are still fine.

Same thing with some front tractor tires, put a set on my pulling truck that I built in the early 90s and tires that were put on a tractor around the same time, same tires, are still running on the tractor today but the ones on the pulling truck dry rotted away a few years ago even though it even stayed out of the sun. Difference is the pulling truck was always cleaned and armor-all on tires so it looked good at events and the tires on the tractor have never seen any special treatment.

Cliff ----me too -- I was preparing for a trip away and my missus was "helping" -- she cleaned the dash of my car with armourall and oversprayed some on the inside of the windscreen - so I had this smeared half foggy windscreen for two years after - I tried every cleaner I could think of and nothing would shift it - I pay windscreen insurance (adds about 60 bucks a year) so the first decent stone chip I got we told a story to the assessor and got a new windscreen fitted 

[pony express]

I never had the misfortune to get Armor All on my windshield, but it sure did make a sticky mess of my steering wheel the first hot day after I used it . Only  happened once.

[greyhawk]

Cliff ----me too -- I was preparing for a trip away and my missus was "helping" -- she cleaned the dash of my car with armourall and oversprayed some on the inside of the windscreen - so I had this smeared half foggy windscreen for two years after - I tried every cleaner I could think of and nothing would shift it - I pay windscreen insurance (adds about 60 bucks a year) so the first decent stone chip I got we told a story to the assessor and got a new windscreen fitted

must be gettin cabin fever I wrote the same dang reply to Cliff twice on this 

[Blair]

My understanding of the original formula for these yellow slickers was the pure natural latex from the rubber tree, heated to make it soft, added with boiled linseed oil and turpentine during the heating. Applied to the fabric while hot/warm and allowed to cool. (I have know idea what the exact formula was!)
Problem is... that this coating always seems to stay rather sticky (to itself), especially during warmer temps.
Boiled linseed oil mixed with turpentine (50-50) and heated, applied to the inside of the fabric will help seal these pulled apart openings in the original coating.
To reduce this stickiness of the original coating I would suggest talcum powder or plane old chalk dust. (if you don't want to sell like a flower)
My best,
Blair