Cimarron's new American model!

Started by nativeshootist, October 25, 2018, 12:04:16 AM

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Crow Choker

Quote from: Johnson Barr on September 06, 2020, 12:06:34 PM
I just skipped back through the postings and see that the R-M in question has a cylinder actually chambered for .44 Colt cartridges. Nice! My R-M's are marked .44 Colt, but the cylinders chamber .44 S&W Special cases. That being said, back to the .44 S&W Russian cartridge cases. I use them exclusively to replicate, as close as possible, the .44 Henry Flat central fire cartridges of the day. I also shoot the same loads in my 1860 Henry carbine with a modified carrier block. There's no way to work around the .429 bores, so the .44 S&W Russian cases get me as close as possible to the Henry Flat cartridge.   

Johnson Barr--The reason your R-M cylinder/and or frame is marked 44 Colt, but will chamber 44 Special is because at one time Uberti made them that way. Back in 2007 when I was contemplating buying a Open Top and Win Model 66 in 44 Special, one of Cimarron's main guys (can't recall his name, he's still there I believe) advised me that the Open Tops and Richards II and R-M revolvers were marked 44 Colt, but would chamber 44 Specials. This was due to some of the "period correct" crowd wanting to shoot 44 Specials, but didn't want 44 Spec stamped on the revolver. How dare they!!!  He advised that the revolvers' of course could handle of the the shorter length brass 44 Colts with ease. Bought both the OT and 66, OT was marked 44 Colt, but chambered the 44 Spec with ease.

Around a year later in late 2008, I bought a Cimarron Uberti Richards II and it was stamped 44 Special, as is a Richards-Mason I bought 3-4 years ago. I don't know when Uberti started and stopped this practice, I know it was stopped sometime between summer 2007 and Dec 2008. Initially I loaded and shot only Black powder rounds in 44 Colt Caliber and loaded Specials with smokeless for identity ease. After a while I just loaded and shot only 44 Colts with Black, still pretty much only do, shooting Specials in a Ruger Super Blkhawk and Marlin 1894 Cowboy lever gun chambered in 44 Mag. Those specials are marked on the box Ruger and Marlin only. I occasionally will load some mild 44 Spec with smokeless and shoot them in either my OT, Richards II, or RM (all chambered in 44 Spec.), even loaded some 44 Spec with black, but didn't see any advantage over the black loaded 44 Colts (25.0 grains FF Colt and 27.0 grains FF Special).

I've run both 44 Colts and Specials through the Uberti Win 66 lever gun. Even though its chambered and stamped 44 Spec, I have no problems with the 44 Colts. Have yet had any feeding or ejection problems. Note: I don't try to slam the tube full of rounds through the action like it was a semi-auto. I can lever them through pretty fast with no problem. I did smooth things up sometime after I shot alot of rounds through it, it's a slick shooter, all stock. If I want a mad moment, I'll load up one of my AR's, Mini14 in 5.56mm, M1 Garands 30/06, or one of my Remington 81 rifles in 300 Savage and spray and pray to get those kicks. Now that's centerfire fast shooting.  ;D
Darksider-1911 Shooter-BOLD Chambers-RATS-SCORRS-STORM-1860 Henry(1866)-Colt Handgun Lover an' Fan-NRA-"RiverRat"-Conservative American Patriot and Former Keeper & Enforcer of the Law an' Proud of Being Both! >oo

Ridge Runner

Just started following this.  I am assuming that due to the multiple chamberings being offered, the cylinder will be the same length for all, and not have the offset as on the originals that helped to eliminate fouling?

Abilene

Storm #21   NCOWS L-208   SASS 27489

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Coffinmaker


:) Johnson Barr   ;)

Tascosa Joe is absolutely correct-a-mundo.  Straight Wall pistol cartridge cases DO NOT expand enough to seal the chamber against Gun Gas.  It's that simple.  Then add the manufacturer's propensity for slightly oversize chamber dimensions and PRESTO!! Blow-By.

The fix for Blow-By is annealing.  45 Colt, 45 Schofield, Cowboy 45 Special, 44 Spl, 44 Colt, 44 Russian, all benefit from annealing.  The process doesn't just reduce Blow-By . . . .  it ELIMINATES it.  I have several 45 Rifles that are as clean after 7 or 8 matches as a 44 WCF or 38 WCF.  It is boring, time consuming and a nuisance, but well worth the time spent.

The Pathfinder

Oh well, with everything going on on the political front I broke down and ordered an American in 45 caliber. I know, I know, blasphemy. :-[ Plan on shooting Schofield rounds thru it next to my Schofield. Still have the 44 on order, but checked with Cimarron on Friday and they said they didn't expect any 44s till after the new year. By then, if God forbid the socialists should win  :o, we may not even get to see them. So I at least have an American on it's way; after waiting for around 25 years for them to be made I'm going to enjoy it while I can.  :D

U.S.M.R.

My feelings exactly. I really enjoy mine.

Johnson Barr

Well then, if annealing is the solution, my kind sir. Would you please advise via this thread a 'how it's done' successful method of doing such magic? 
"Peace is that glorious moment in history when everybody stands around reloading"  -Thomas Jefferson

Major 2

when planets align...do the deal !

Drydock

Get a Lee Melter

a small bag of fine playground sand

A lyman digital lead thermometer

Fill the Melter 3/4 full of sand.  Turn the knob to 8.5.  Heat sand to 800 degrees.  Stick cases neck down in sand for 5 seconds or so. Thicker cases may take longer.  Drop case in water bucket.

Work your way around in the sand so you never use the same place twice in a row.  Works great. 

Civilize them with a Krag . . .

Johnson Barr

Case mouth achieving 800 degrees F from 5 seconds does the trick?
"Peace is that glorious moment in history when everybody stands around reloading"  -Thomas Jefferson

Drydock

You adjust your time as needed, but it does not take much, remember your heating the brass both inside and outside,  as opposed to an external flame.  You do NOT need to heat the brass cherry red, just enough that you see a slight discoloration after cleaning is what you're looking for.  I use this on 10.4x47r Italian brass, which gets worked EXTREMELY hard, and have not lost a case since trying it. 

I know, it sounds too simple.  A BPCR Silhouette shooter described it to me.  You are relieving stress and preventing work hardening the brass.  improves flexibility in the metal structure.
Civilize them with a Krag . . .

reno

USMR, and SRJ have you seen any draw backs to your #3 Americans?
thanks
Reno





The Pathfinder

Ok, just picked up my new American. Haven't had a chance to fire it yet, but overall it looks to be the best replica yet. The only markings visible on it are the address on the top of the barrel and the caliber (45 Colt) on the left side of the barrel, oh and the serial number on the butt. There is also a US on the top of the barrel right where it should be, but no oil hole. The remainder of the markings, model name & number and the proof marks are all concealed under the grips, out of sight. I've also dug out a pair of old ivory grips from Tombstone grips I had bought with the thought of fitting to my original and will be trying to fit them to it. The grips are very close and should require very minimal fitting, all of the edges are over by no more than 1/8" and no edge is shy of the metal. I'll try to get some pics posted over the next couple of days.

Out of curiosity, mine is serial number CS00017, I had thought it would have been higher by now. I know there were backorders and I've seen a couple of runs go thru Gunbroker, how are your numbers? Just say above or below if you don't want to list the number.

U.S.M.R.

 Congrats Pathfinder. Reno the fit and finish is excellent, action is smooth and shoots well. While not an exact copy I find nothing to complain about. I'm happy to have it.

U.S.M.R.

Mine is F19xxx numbered in with my Russian and Schofield. Yes I would like one in .44 but as they say a bird in the hand is worth two in the bush. And let us not forget on this date in 1881 was the gunfight at the O.K. Corral where some people believe that Wyatt probably carried an American

The Pathfinder

Weird, I wonder why the serial number change?

Abilene

Sounds like maybe U.S.M.R.'s s/n is just a continuation of the top-break S&W numbers.  Did they intend to switch to the new s/n prefix and just got a late start?  Interesting.
Storm #21   NCOWS L-208   SASS 27489

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U.S.M.R.

Interesting thought. Get American in.44 get.38 Schofield cylinder chamber it for.44 American fiddle with bullet diameter a little put screw in ejector housing drill oil hole and you have early American.

Snake River James

Reno, I can't say that I've seen any real drawbacks but I can offer a few observations now that I've had several opportunities to shoot it.  I'll start by saying that I have or have had at least one example of every S&W No.3 repro that Uberti makes and have shot them extensively in CAS and informally, so I have a pretty good background for comparison.  The American is somewhat muzzle heavy with the 8" barrel and the grip configuration makes it less handy to me than say, a New Model No. 3 which is my favorite Smith model for CAS.  That said, I don't consider it to be unwieldy, but it won't handle like an SAA.  The gun shoots to point of aim, is accurate and I've had no significant problems with it at all.  It runs ok with black powder using Big Lube bullets.  The only issue I have with the gun is I feel the fitting could have been a little better.  There is some very slight rotational play in the cylinder in all positions.  While not excessive, almost all the other Uberti No. 3s I have virtually no cylinder play at all.  The fit of the barrel/frame match up could also be a little tighter; there is very slight side to side play even with the latch fully engaged.  Again its not excessive but not as tight as my other Uberti Smiths nor as tight as my two original Smith & Wessons (a NM No. 3 and a .44 DA).  The action pivots open more easily than I would like even with the pivot pin/screw tightened all the way.  I like my top breaks to have a little resistance and not just fall open completely of their own weight.  For example, I have a recent Uberti New Model No. 3 from Taylor's that can be tightened to give this slight resistance but the American will quickly fall open by itself upon lifting the catch if you let it and the pivot cannot be further tightened.

I doubt every Uberti American displays these quirks just as my other Uberti No. 3s don't but they are present on my gun.  Not deal breakers, just some minor things that could have/should have been done a little better on a gun in this price range.  I really do like this gun.  It's a good shooter and I like it much better than the Uberti Russian I used to have.

reno

Thanks SRJ, for the great information and thoughts on the revolver. I have had my name on the list at Cimarron for a long time, but I will wait for the 44 cal. and at $920.00 it will be the last time I spend that much for a Uberti revolver, and at 76 years old I just hope the revolver gets here before I ride off into the sunset.
Reno

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