Standard Manufacturing Single Action

OD#3 · September 20, 2018, 07:22:56 AM

I mentioned on here that I'd received serial #US 54 the other day. To sum things up, my overall impression is that these are VERY well-built single actions. They're better than any late-model Colt I've seen in the last 10 years and right up there with the best USFA guns.

I can post some pics later, but I've been busy editing, rendering, and uploading my Youtube review of it. I published the video this morning, and I uploaded it at 1080@60fps resolution for good closeup views.

This is a long video, because I filmed it right after I returned from the gunshop with it, and it is my first close examination of it filmed in real-time as I inspect and disassemble it.

45 Dragoon · September 20, 2018, 10:22:15 AM

OD#3, nice looking revolver!! If you want to keep it a "stock" shooter and obviously don't mind some massaging, I would (at minimum) polish the left side of the hand (after breaking the edge all the way around) and thining (considerably) the bolt side of the combo spring. It seems they also like the historic Italian design of wide bolt spring and equal trigger spring. The correct spring should be wide trigger/narrow bolt. 2-3 lbs is all that's needed on the bolt (saves a lot of wear and helps lighten the hammer draw very much!). Obviously, polishing the cam surface would help as well (= more energy for punching primers).

I would also think about a bolt block as well since it is a non-invasive addition but is so important to a precision action. Of course, I'd do more, but that's just me (it's a shooter for crying out loud!! ). A 3 lb (or slightly less) hammer draw with a 2 1/2- 3 lb trigger pull and an action stop makes for an ultimate "fun gun"!!

Just a couple ideas.
Thanks for the video.

Mike

Bibbyman · September 20, 2018, 01:53:41 PM

Some nerve you have just taking a screwdriver and taking that gun apart. But unless it was going to live its life in a box in a safe, it'll have to come apart sometime anyway.

The grip panels were on real tight or so it looked like. I generally turn the screw out a couple turns and then tap on it to break loose the other panel. But those panels looked to be awful tight. Another way would be to to take the screw out and use a punch through one side to the other to tap it loose. But now that you've had at apart, it should be easier.

OD#3 · September 20, 2018, 02:56:27 PM

Yeah, I had never encountered grips that tight. Good tip about loosening the screw a couple of turns and tapping on it; I've always inserted it in the other end and pulled on it, but your idea sound better.

Bibbyman · September 20, 2018, 04:47:19 PM

Quote from: OD#3 on September 20, 2018, 02:56:27 PM
Yeah, I had never encountered grips that tight. Good tip about loosening the screw a couple of turns and tapping on it; I've always inserted it in the other end and pulled on it, but your idea sound better.

I use the same method to knock loose side locks in shotguns and plates off sides of Winchester 73s.

Coffinmaker · September 20, 2018, 08:22:33 PM

Hi Odie

Don't look now, but it's ME again

Nice Vid. Really nice looking gun. Unfortunately, I didn't get to be touchy feely with the lock works (Oh poo).

Without that, I have just a couple of observations. I do not understand the reasoning behind the standard folks offering part time employment to BONGO, Uberti's trained assembly Gorilla, to install screws. There is no fathomable reason to have the screws in the gun that tight. Made me curious if the Backstrap was sprung??

I recently accepted a commission for a really nice pair of Pietta "51s. The Backstrap was sprung from the factory and the screws installed incredibly tight. My favorite fitted screwdriver bit ..... SHATTERED ..... while trying to take the Backstrap screws out. Never encountered screws that tight in ANY previous Pietta I've worked on. That is NOT FUN.

I have another observation. Rather cheeky and tongue in cheek but I'll let that sleeping hound continue to snore.

OD#3 · September 20, 2018, 11:06:32 PM

Well, Howdy Coffinmaker!

I don't blame you for being underwhelmed with the lockwork. It isn't anything to write home about. Timing is good--especially at half-cock. But you may have noticed the cylinder wobble during cocking, which I attribute to an overly-light hand spring. Internal parts were rougher than I'd hoped. I did a light stoning on a few areas before reassembly, but I'll have to do some more work before I'm really satisfied.

A lot of the appeal that Standard has on me would have absolutely no influence on a lot of guys in cowboy action shooting. Most guys really don't care HOW a part is made, as long as it works well. I find Standard's "machine everything from 4140 barstock" very appealing, even though I must concede that it has no effect on performance. The only analogy I can come up with off-hand is the high regard the M-14 rifle aficionados have for milled-receiver M14 clones from LRB or Rock-ola vs. Springfield's cast M1A. Performance-wise, there's no difference. But there's something about all milled parts that appeals to them and to folks like me. It is hard to explain and even harder to justify, but part of the appeal of firearms for me in my formative years was my fascination for what work went into the actual machining. Show me a cast trigger guard vs. one milled from barstock, and I'd prefer the barstock one, despite there being no difference in performance between the two.

As for Bongo, I don't think even he could have gotten the screws that tight, given the often soft nature of Italian screws. I can only credit the quality of Standard's screws and a well-fitted, strong screwdriver bit for my ultimate success in loosening those screws. But I don't think a sprung backstrap was to blame. ALL the screws were tight. I even had to strain to loosen the bolt, trigger, and hammer screws. The whole time I was torquing on those screws, I kept imagining what would happen if the screwdriver broke. I was really sweating bullets on that disassembly!

Bibbyman · September 21, 2018, 02:46:32 AM

Do you suspect they put Loktite on the screws?

Surely they have to assemble and disassemble the gun in the build process. And they wouldn't want to go through working with screws that tight every time. Well, they could just use any screws for initial assembly and then install the timed screws as a last step.

OD#3 · September 21, 2018, 08:02:01 AM

No, there's no locktite on them. I think the nature of qualified screws may cause manufacturers to lean more towards having a tighter screw. After all, if the only reason to have qualified screws in the first place is just so all the screwdriver slots go in one direction and look better, you don't want them loosening up on you by themselves (as screws are want to do on many single actions) and ruining the look. So I guess Standard times theirs to bottom out a few degrees off-center and really require some crush to snug up straight. I haven't tried to re-loosen any of the screws I tightened after reassembly, but it didn't take nearly as much force to line the slots back up as it did to break them loose.

I bet Standard uses "work" screws during the build.

Coffinmaker · September 21, 2018, 09:21:56 AM

I have often harbored suspicions. No proof. There has even been open denial by Uberti. None the less, I suspect Air Tools. With a small air powered torque driver, it is possible to get even soft screws impossibly tight. (ask me how I know that) When/while I still had my shingle out, my bestsest friend was/is a quarter inch drive impact tool. With a really well fitted driver bit. Even when installing, care must be taken with the Air Tool. Great damage can be done.

I also agree with "work" screws. Although, with the quality of most Replicants, it is possible there is a single assembly and so long as the operation is "close" it goes inna box.

Cliff Fendley · September 22, 2018, 07:48:21 AM

I've gotten to where if there is any doubt on a screw during disassembly of a new gun, regardless of manufacture, I use my little hand impact driver and Brownells magnatip bits for loosening.

Cliff Fendley · September 22, 2018, 01:33:19 PM

Nice review OD. I would have been a nervous wreck too taking those tight screws out. I love my little impact driver I mentioned above for that, usually one little whack and it breaks the screws loose.

It looks to me like the flat on the bottom of the firing pin is where they hit it to bend it upwards. If so nothing wrong IMO at least they took the time to fit and tune it.

OD#3 · September 22, 2018, 02:57:03 PM

Thanks. On my video, I was opining that they had ground or otherwise re-shaped the firing pin with some stock-removal technique. But the more I've examined it, the more I believe that the flat was created by them hitting the pin to bend it upwards. That doesn't bother me either; it is their way of tuning the pin fitment. But Standard didn't want their guns to require much fitting at all, relying on precision machining instead. I bet they're already altering some of their CNC programs for the next batch of hammers.

I need to get one of those impact drivers.

Coffinmaker · September 22, 2018, 05:32:54 PM

Um, I am want to suggest, NOBODY whacked that firing pin wid a hammer to "BEND" it up. There ain't no way that firing pin would bend. I might believe a few passes with a very new, sharp and fine file. Hammer?? NO WAY JOSE.

Abilene · September 22, 2018, 09:39:39 PM

Quote from: OD#3 on September 22, 2018, 02:57:03 PM
...I need to get one of those impact drivers.

I have one and it is great. And was cheap (along with some cheap bits) from Harbor Freight. Problem is, they don't carry it any more and I can't find anything like it online. Everything you find is a larger size and won't fit our regular bits.

yahoody · September 22, 2018, 10:52:26 PM

Quote from: Coffinmaker
Um, I am want to suggest, NOBODY whacked that firing pin wid a hammer to "BEND" it up. There ain't no way that firing pin would bend. I might believe a few passes with a very new, sharp and fine file.

I've intentionally bent a number of Uberti firing pins with a hammer. But I'd have guessed a file on this one too, not a hammer.

Bibbyman · September 23, 2018, 01:41:41 AM

Quote from: Abilene on September 22, 2018, 09:39:39 PM
I have one and it is great. And was cheap (along with some cheap bits) from Harbor Freight. Problem is, they don't carry it any more and I can't find anything like it online. Everything you find is a larger size and won't fit our regular bits.

I also have the Harbor Freight impact driver and used sockets to reduce it down to 1/4" size so I could use standard bits.

I think I got a 1/2" drive to 1/4" reducer socket and then used a 1/4" socket.

Abilene · September 23, 2018, 02:47:32 AM

That'll work! I have that one, too, but since I have the smaller one I haven't tried adapters and such.

Coffinmaker · September 23, 2018, 11:57:47 AM

Bibbyman also has a well seasoned AXE for his truly fine work. Or .... just a light tap onna impact tool. Righteous!!

Cliff Fendley · September 23, 2018, 06:06:30 PM

Quote from: OD#3 on September 22, 2018, 02:57:03 PM
Thanks. On my video, I was opining that they had ground or otherwise re-shaped the firing pin with some stock-removal technique. But the more I've examined it, the more I believe that the flat was created by them hitting the pin to bend it upwards. That doesn't bother me either; it is their way of tuning the pin fitment. But Standard didn't want their guns to require much fitting at all, relying on precision machining instead. I bet they're already altering some of their CNC programs for the next batch of hammers.

I need to get one of those impact drivers.

Yeah that was my first thought that the flat was created by them hitting it. It just looks bent to me. I'm like you I bet they start drilling the hammers a little higher.

I don't think this is the exact tool I have but it's really close to it. I use mine with Brownells bits and works good not buggering up screws.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w2503?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-performance-tool&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-MqJ4ZzS3QIVgyZpCh1FdAC6EAkYASABEgJe4fD_BwE