Wedge Settings

Started by Coal Creek Griff, June 29, 2018, 01:30:01 PM

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Coal Creek Griff

Hmmm.  Comments?



CC Griff
Manager, WT Ranch--Coal Creek Division

BOLD #921
BOSS #196
1860 Henry Rifle Shooter #173
SSS #573

Blair

It has been my experience that the wedge in most/many cap and ball type/like revolvers can be very difficult to remove when new and out of the box.
With usage and time this problem will become easier.
However, I have never been satisfied with the ability to remove the wedge with finger pressure alone.
That is just my thoughts!
My best,
Blair
A Time for Prayer.
"In times of war and not before,
God and the soldier we adore.
But in times of peace and all things right,
God is forgotten and the soldier slighted"
by Rudyard Kipling.
Blair Taylor
Life-C 21

Tuolumne Lawman

I fit mine where they need a tap to pop out.  My Uberti Richards Type II has a capture screw with a flat side that engages a noth cut in the top of the wedge.  Finger pressure would be OK on that, but I still fit it so a tap with a dowel is necessary.
TUOLUMNE LAWMAN
CO. F, 12th Illinois Cavalry  SASS # 6127 Life * Spencer Shooting Society #43 * Motherlode Shootist Society #1 * River City Regulators

Coffinmaker


Frankly Francis.  HORSE PUCKY.  A.)   I have never, ever seen a Uberti with a Wedge that would seat and remove with finger pressure alone.  Most, ... as received from the factory, had to be and were, driven in with a small mallet.  The only way to get em out was with a slightly Larger mallet.  Matters not if it's a Cap Gun or and Open Top.  The Wedge simply doesn't fit.  And since the Barrel to Arbor fit on Uberti guns is incorrect from the start, you can't actually "fit" the wedge until you correct the Barrel/Arbor.

Once we get past that hoopla ..... 98% of the wedges on the guns I have worked on, regardless of manufacturer, Uberti or Pietta, the wedges didn't fit.  Oh, they were in the gun alright, Getting them out was a trip.  After setting the gun up, I fit the wedge so it takes a solid "shove" from the thumb to seat the wedge.  It will snug up more when the gun is shot.  To remove, takes a light tap from the butt of a plastic screwdriver handle (Brownells) to tap the wedge loose, then remove by firm pulling.  I like the hook on the spring to just break the plane of the far side of the barrel lug (Cap Guns).  For an Open Top, I fit the wedge for the retainer screw slot to break the plane of the nearside of the barrel lug as it goes snug with a firm shove from the thumb.  Or just a light tap from the butt of a plastic screwdriver (same one from Brownells) and I use half of a spring clothespin to reach under the ejector to tap the Wedge out.

Regardless of Cap Gun or Open Top, it should not take more than a light tap to seat the wedge nor remove it.  Now.  PLEASE.  Understand.  Should you somehow manage to forget to put the wedge "in the gun" it will be hilarious when you pull the trigger.  HILARIOUS!!

Tuolumne Lawman

Hahaha!  so true, CM!  I watched an 1860 barrel assembly fly down range at a match.  S very red faced new shooter forgot to put the wedge back in!  It was still sitting on the loading table.
TUOLUMNE LAWMAN
CO. F, 12th Illinois Cavalry  SASS # 6127 Life * Spencer Shooting Society #43 * Motherlode Shootist Society #1 * River City Regulators

riflee

One thing I've learned from fumbling with Colt Cap&ballers is to fit the wedge proberly when tuning a gun. The wedge has a taper so to fit correctly the angle/taper of the arbor & barrel need to be exactly the same. Exactly. That way the proverbial thumb press fit can be attained and work. Maybe with a thump with the butt of the hand to seat the wedge a little firmer.

That way the wedge comes out easier but stays in while shooting.Usually that calls for a new wedge made. Then the taper of the barrels bearing surfaces at the rear of the slot and the taper of the arbor slot front surface need to be the same as the wedge. When you can  take a pen light and put it on one side and look at the other side and see no light coming thru from the other side between the surface of the wedge and the rear bearing surfaces at the barrels rear of the slot and no light showing between the wedge surface and the front of the arbor slot it's done.                     
The gunsmiths here know what I'm trying to say so maybe they can say this more simply.
I get some satisfying reinforcement when I get that job done and know my DANG wedge fits correctly.   The manufacturers can do this job when the guns are made with the sophisticated machine tools they have but.......they may need some feedback from customers.
Pietta has fairly well corrected the barrel and arbor length but their  pressure form fit of their wedges that take a jackhammer to get the wedge from a new gun is.......just to danged aggravating. Uberti and their beautiful cap&ballers?  They need a little more sophistication to their arbor fits and the their wedge fits. Straighten those things out a little more and maybe get the chamber diameters to match the barrel groove diameters and......they'd be fairly perfect.    Perfect...what a grand word! 



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