newbie question

[Coffinmaker]

OK Buxton Guy!!!  Congratulations   

Now, take it apart (pull the barrel and cylinder).  Check to see if the Barrel to Arbor fit has been corrected.  Before you begin to play with it a whole bunch, the Barrel to Arbor fit needs fix'd.  Hop on over to "The Open Range" which a "read only" site now.  You need to find the Open Top tutorials by "Larsen E. Pettifogger" and READ THEM!!

First step is to see if the barrel will slide all the way on and off the Arbor.  No binding or Dragging.

[buxtonguy]

will do

[buxtonguy]

OK Buxton Guy!!!  Congratulations   

Now, take it apart (pull the barrel and cylinder).  Check to see if the Barrel to Arbor fit has been corrected.  Before you begin to play with it a whole bunch, the Barrel to Arbor fit needs fix'd.  Hop on over to "The Open Range" which a "read only" site now.  You need to find the Open Top tutorials by "Larsen E. Pettifogger" and READ THEM!!

First step is to see if the barrel will slide all the way on and off the Arbor.  No binding or Dragging.

that's.... a lot of stuff

[Abilene]

that's.... a lot of stuff

Right...
and stuff that doesn't necessarily need to be done.  There are other threads on this subject in the STORM section that you should review.  After a lot of years of shooting my four '51 R-M's with no mods other than spring kits, I did finally drop washers down the arbor holes in the barrels to tighten that up.  It is an improvement that is super easy and I recommend it.  Everything else is optional, IMO.

[Coffinmaker]

Hey Abilene!!  And Buxton Guy,

Yep.  That is absolutely a TON of stuff.  I, by training and nature, am one who looks at a mechanical appliance and searches out the imperfections and then fix's them.  So is Pettifogger.  If there is a failing, we WILL find at and tell you how to fix it.  ALL of it. HOWEVER:

THE biggie is to clean up the Barrel to arbor fit so it goes together and comes apart reasonably easy and fix the Barrel to Arbor fit.  I found a couple lustrum ago, simply dropping a 10mm split washer (I like stainless) down the Arbor bore of the barrel would correct the Barrel to Arbor fit to neat perfect.  Your gun will love ya for it.

The rest of that "a lot of stuff" applies if your going to run the gun hard in reaching for the Brass Ring.  I do suggest however, you also consider reducing the Main Spring.  VTI Gunparts and Brownells have rather nice reduced Main Springs as does Wolff.  Your going to have a gob of fun playing with your new gun.

[buxtonguy]

took her apart, all looks good, barrel slides on and off real smooth, the arbor hole looks burr free, slightly conical at the end.  gap along front and back of cylinder looks very consistent through rotation.  off to the range

[Roscoe]

would carrying a 1873 and an 1851 RM be considered weird?

Not weird but not competitive either.

[Baltimore Ed]

Going back to the ops original question. My club shot last Saturday and I used my 7.5 inch .38-40 New Service in a crossdraw with no issues. I carried my 6 inch .38 in the strongside but would have been faster if I'd used my 4.5 inch .38 NS. I tend to miss with the shorter bbl but my only miss Saturday was with the 6 inch so duh huh. Was clean with my Krag and 97. Long barreled revolvers are made for crossdraws.

[buxtonguy]

Going back to the ops original question. My club shot last Saturday and I used my 7.5 inch .38-40 New Service in a crossdraw with no issues. I carried my 6 inch .38 in the strongside but would have been faster if I'd used my 4.5 inch .38 NS. I tend to miss with the shorter bbl but my only miss Saturday was with the 6 inch so duh huh. Was clean with my Krag and 97. Long barreled revolvers are made for crossdraws.

thanks