Reloading on a budget? Is there such a thing?

[Ben Beam]

I've heard the canard that reloading doesn't save money because you'll shoot more, but due to some health issues my shooting time is more limited by pain than rounds! I recently acquired a .44 mag Henry Big Boy, and it seems to me that reloading likely makes some sense. I've seen there are some real cheap options, such as the hand press, but one of the problems I have is hand pain, so anything that involves a lot of pressure or squeezing is out. 

I'm trying to determine what the minimum equipment is to reload while meeting the following requirements:

• Safety
• Doesn't require a lot of hand strength
• Not spending more (or less!) than necessary

Looks like I'll need a press, a set of 3 dies, a case holder, a scale, a reloading manual, a tumbler or ultrasonic cleaner, and some way to dispense powder. Does that cover it? Any recommendations?

I really appreciate the helpfulness and knowledge of everyone here. It's a great resource. Thanks for your help!

Edit: Is something like this worthwhile, or will I just get frustrated? https://www.midwayusa.com/product/121744/lee-challenger-breech-lock-single-stage-press-kit

[hp246]

JUst my .02.  Yes reloading will save you substantial money.  You may also shoot more.  Any of the quality single stage presses will get you started.  I'm not familiar with the Lee press. 

Here would be my recommendations:
1.  Shop some of the online auctions, conservation club bulletin boards, Craigslist, yard/garage sales and keep your eyes open for used stuff through estate sales.  Compare the pricing against the same items for sale from companies like Midway, etc.
2.  Minimize the components you have to keep around.  For example, I load .45 Colt and .45 ACP.  I only load large pistol primer cases, so I only have to keep large pistol primers in stock.  I use the same bullets for both .45 ACP and .45 Colt.
3.  I try to keep my powder options to a minimum as well, but have loads developed around several different powders so that I can take advantage of availablity and sales.
4.  If you belong to a conservation club/gunclub, try to find someone who can mentor you.  The club I belong to has periodic classes in reloading.

[Coal Creek Griff]

Reloading can be extremely complicated, but it certainly doesn't have to be.  The kit in the link should work fine for you, although you'd need to add a few other things to complete your equipment, particularly caliber-specific things like dies.  That kit has nearly everything, though.  A few things, like a case cleaner may not be absolutely necessary.  I loaded for many years cleaning the dirtiest brass by hand and being satisfied with less-than sparkling cases.  On the other hand, I now tumble virtually all of my cases.

I think you're on the right track here.  I'd suggest getting a good loading handbook (or more--check with your local library) and study them carefully before making too many purchases.  Take it slow, think it all through, start with low pressures and you'll soon find yourself to be just as addicted as the rest of us are.  In fact, more than one of us have purchased new guns where the primary goal was to have a new caliber to load for.

Another suggestion might be to ask this question over in "The Powder Room" as well, since most loading techniques are common between smokeless and black powders.

CC Griff

[Jake C]

I started my loading on a budget, and in general, try to keep it as cheap as possible. I started with the Lee Hand Press (which I like, but probably wouldn't recommend if your hands are hurting you), and Lee dies. I'm still on the Lee Press ,but have switched over to RCBS cowboy dies for my favorite calibers. They're pricier (about double the price of Lee dies) but I've found the cost to be worth it. I think that kit should do you just fine.

As a side note, I agree with the folks here who've mentioned standardizing powders and primers and bullets where possible. It makes your life (and shopping) a lot easier.

[Dick Dastardly]

For Cowboy Action shooting I would put my 2¢ worth in for casting your own bullets.  Some bullet alloy (wheel weights will work), a bottom pour pot and a mold is all it takes.  You would also want a lube/sizer unit.  Since bullets are the biggest cost, casting your own will pay off quick.  PM me for further information.  I won't advertise here.

DD-MDA

[longinosoap]

I have used Lee equipment since I started reloading. I currently use the Lee turret and reload about 5 different calibers The least expensive but not cheap, if you know what I mean. A vibratory cleaner works fine and is less expensive than ultrasonic. I have seen both in Harbor Freight. Like said above, tumbling is not necessary.

At first it will cost you money, but if you shoot CAS and reload, eventually you will save money. And like DD said above, cast your own to really save money over the long haul.

[Baltimore Ed]

The secret of 'cheap' reloading is the amortization of your equipment. Is you only shoot occasionally it will take a very long time before your equipment cost is recouped but if you shoot monthly matches or just practices of 120 - 200 rds = about 2000 rds a year. It doesn't take long to pay back your investment. The other is to look for used equipment at gun shows and from other shooters who have outgrown their presses. The only thing that you should buy new are quality carbide dies and possibly a powder measure. Dillon measures are the best imo, very consistent. I switch between my Lyman turret presses and a Dillon 550 but I also use an old C press depending on what caliber I'm reloading. Good luck and be safe, if you have questions please ask. There are no dumb questions only dumb answers. There are a lot of smart cowboys on the forum.

[Johnny McCrae]

Everyone above has given you some great input and advice.

I started out reloading "single stage" on a Lee Classic Turret press, priming and charging off press. After I gained experience and felt comfortable, I progressed to priming and charging on the Turret press. I load nine different calibers and one of the advantages of the Lee Classic Turret press is the ease of changing calibers.

I use a lot of .38 Special rounds and have now progressed to reloading my .38 Special rounds on a Dillon 550 press. I still use my Lee Classic Turret press for all of my other rounds.

[Ben Beam]

Thanks for all the great replies. I've only got three calibers at the moment: .22, .12 gauge, and .44 mag. No interest in reloading .12, and the .22 is a no-go, so that makes things much simpler. I already have a small ultrasonic cleaner for other things that I'll test with some brass and see how it performs.

A few people have mentioned some upgrade: different died that are twice as expensive, as well as a different powder measure. I'll look into those as well to see whether they're "nice to have" or genuinely worth the extra bucks when money is tight.

This is great info! Very helpful. 

[Ben Beam]

I started my loading on a budget, and in general, try to keep it as cheap as possible. I started with the Lee Hand Press (which I like, but probably wouldn't recommend if your hands are hurting you), and Lee dies. I'm still on the Lee Press ,but have switched over to RCBS cowboy dies for my favorite calibers. They're pricier (about double the price of Lee dies) but I've found the cost to be worth it. I think that kit should do you just fine.

As a side note, I agree with the folks here who've mentioned standardizing powders and primers and bullets where possible. It makes your life (and shopping) a lot easier.

MidwayUSA has the RCBS dies on sale, and RCBS also has a rebate right now, so that brings the cost down to close to that of the Lee dies. Tempted to bite the bullet    and buy the dies at least, and then figure out the rest later; but it says the seater only works with cast bullets, and I'm not sure I want to start off with that.

Edit: OK, so I can buy cast bullets. I have so much to learn!

Edit #2: Midway lists the dies as for .44 S&W, not .44 Win Mag. My internet searches to determine if they're the same aren't helping.

Final edit: A Midway rep contacted RCBS, who confirmed that the cowboy dies are not intended for .44 mag, and are not recommended.

[Crow Choker]

All good info for you Schoolboy or anyone considering getting into reloading. The Lee 'kit' appears to have all the essentials needed to reload. Most reloaders I know (including myself) over years add things to speed up, enhance, etc the reloading process. Some are good, some just make us feel better about the process. I don't use much Lee products myself, prefer RCBS, Lyman, Hornady, Redding, but to start on a budget, the Lee would work, one guy I know has been reloading for a number of years and Lee is all he uses-nothing wrong with that, as long as the process is done right. Love the Lee auto hand primer, have a number of Lee molds, and factory crimp dies.

Reloading would be a lot cheaper than the Herter $28 for 50 44 mag rounds from Cabela's you mentioned in the 'Shooters Section'. That's .56 cents a round, not only to pricey, but robbery in my estimation. You could reload the same rounds for maybe a third of that and less, cheaper yet if you cast your own bullets. I can reload most any common revolver/pistol cartridge based on component prices in my area for less than .10 cents per round using my cast bullets. Buying cast will add another 7-10 cents maybe (jacketed stuff is a lot higher). Some guys cast bullets for resale, can be found online, gunshows, etc. As has been posted here, it depends on how much you shoot a year. Just once in a while, several times a year, it probably be cheaper just to find a good source (Cabela's isn't) to buy your ammo. (SGAmmo.com is a good online place to get ammo. They run a lot of sales. I've bought 223/5.56 and 30/06 M1 Garand style ammo from them and they were a lot cheaper than most, good outfit to do business with). If you shoot a lot like I do and others, reloading is the way to go. One note though, I've seen shooters invest a lot in reloading equipment, then detest having to do it. A lot don't like taking the time, doing it properly, and a host of other reasons, then end up selling their equipment or letting it sit in boxes and complain what a bad investment it was. Me, I love to reload, almost as much as shooting the stuff. Trimming cases though is a PITA, but necessary sometimes.

If you don't know any reloaders, find someone that does in your area, ask them if you could sit in and see how it's done, ask questions. Everyone on this forum will be happy to answer your questions, no body here was born with a knowledge of reloading, we all started sometime.The 'kits' that Lee, RCBS and others offer are good to start out with, as they do have all the basic stuff you would need, you can add other items later if needed. You can buy it all individually too depending on what your needs/goals are. I did it that way back in the mid 70's, did buy a few things I thought I'd need, but didn't. If you do reload, you'll probably shoot more than you do now and enjoy not popping the primer on something that's costing you 25-50 cents a shot. As stated by some of the other posts, you'll eventually recoup the cost of your reloading investment. Lots-a-luck!

[Ben Beam]

Reloading would be a lot cheaper than the Herter $28 for 50 44 mag rounds from Cabela's you mentioned in the 'Shooters Section'. That's .56 cents a round, not only to pricey, but robbery in my estimation. You could reload the same rounds for maybe a third of that and less, cheaper yet if you cast your own bullets. I can reload most any common revolver/pistol cartridge based on component prices in my area for less than .10 cents per round using my cast bullets. Buying cast will add another 7-10 cents maybe (jacketed stuff is a lot higher). Some guys cast bullets for resale, can be found online, gunshows, etc. As has been posted here, it depends on how much you shoot a year. Just once in a while, several times a year, it probably be cheaper just to find a good source (Cabela's isn't) to buy your ammo. (SGAmmo.com is a good online place to get ammo. They run a lot of sales.

The cheapest .44 mag ammo that SGAmmo.com sells (unless you buy in bulk) is $25 a box, plus shipping. Cabela's cheapest is $29. I'm not sure about highway robbery, but reloading sure looks like a better bet!

My local range offers a 4-hour reloading class for $79. I'll look into it.

[Crow Choker]

I stand corrected on SGA's 44 Mag. I guess I was referring to ammo as a whole. I know from walking through Cabela's, Scheels, Bass Pro, etc, they don't offer any ammo prices that have ever interested me. Maybe I missed them. SGA's $25 is not a deal, but for CAS shooting, 44 mag ammo would be sort of over the top for what is needed and allowed, unless it is 44 mag cases with toned down charges. BE truthful with ya, I never looked at what the Herter ammo was, the price was enough of a shocker. Being that I reload for most of my needs, I rarely buy factory ammo, if I do, it's a good price and I then can reload the casings.

[Sir Charles deMouton-Black]

OSB; I think you were given "overly conservative" advice about .44 mag/.44Spl. The difference is only in the case length, and there is enough adjustment in either set of dies to load both. You will likely end up with more .44Mag cases, so just load them down with "cowboy loads".

[Crow Choker]

I have the RCBS Cowboy carbide die set listed for 44 Russian/44 Special. Since the 44 Colt (that I load FF Black in) case length is between those two, the CB dies load them with ease. I don't shoot/load 44 Russ caliber, but load 44 Spec with the set of dies AND have loaded 44 Mag brass with the RCBS Cowboy set. The carbide sizer die doesn't know the difference, will size all the 44's, the case mouth belling die is just adjusted to what ever 'belling' is needed, works fine. I used to seat the bullets with the supplied seating/crimping die when reloading 44 Mag, but it had to be adjusted so high with some bullets and was fussy, I quit using it and bought a separate RCBS 44Spec/44 Mag seating/crimping die when reloading 44 mag. The original seat/crimp die worked fine for 44 Mag when using round nose flat point such as the Mav Dutchman and like 200-240 grain bullets, but when trying to seat such bullets as the Elmer Keith 245-250 grain SWC (which has a longer nose), it didn't have the ability to be adjusted to my satisfaction. The original seating die DID work, will work, I just wanted more flexibility.

[Coffinmaker]

You've gotten lots of good sage advise.  As mentioned above, your not going to save a nickel until you amortize you up-front investment in your equipment. 

When you consider your equipment, ALWAYS look ahead.  If you have to save an extra month, to get the next step up in presses, do that.  Based on the cartridges you relate, you'll actually do quite well with a Lee Classic and some nice dies.  Powder scale, powder measure and a good RELOADING MANUEL!!

Coffinmaker   

[Bunk Stagnerg]

This question beats me. I started out some some (well, perhaps more than some) years ago with a .45 Colt Lyman Ideal tong tool which I still have and over the intervening years have expanded a bit.
My bench now houses 2 Dillon 550Bs a rack of tool heads, Square Deal "B"  2 Mec shotshell loaders, RCBS Rockchucker single stage press, and a Lee hand press tool. All get used from time to time.
If there ever was a budget it went west a couple of decades ago.
But there is always something else you need sort of like Coffinmakers "gottgitanothergunitis".
Yr' Obt' Svt'
Bunk

[Baltimore Ed]

The whole secret of cheap reloading is to be consistent in buying guns in calibers that you already own and that use the same components. Not necessarily the same exact caliber though thats the easiest way,  just either the same bullets, primers or powders. This is easy with handgun calibers but harder with rifle calibers. And if you just gotta have that odd .40 or .38 be realistic and decide if you would shoot it enough to pay off the dies, brass and bullets that only that gun uses. Otherwise buy a few boxes of correct ammo and enjoy. All my modern rifles are .30 cal something. My latest purchase is a .44-40 1873 Winchester, it uses the same powder/primers as my .45 lc but different brass and bullets. This is not an issue as I plan to use it in CAS matches and I already had 44-40 dies from a previous project that didn't work out. And look for used equipment, I've bought old Pacific shotshell presses off eBay, not too pretty but they work fine. I would add one caveat, while you might enjoy shooting you may hate reloading. I shoot with CAS shooters who buy remanufactured loads to use in matches. Find a fellow shooter that reloads and let him show you how it's done. See if it's your cup of tea before you jump in.

[Bunk Stagnerg]

Ed you hit the bulls eye. I use the same powder for rifle, revolver, and shotgun (black of course). Same primers for center fire  but since I cast my own two different bullets.
Pretty much all the equipment is used, in some cases slightly rebuilt but I don't have a fortune tied up in machinery.  I think you will find that as you go along you will acquire more things, but understand I have been in the reloading game since the early 1950's the days of corrosive primers so never in one year did I break the bank.
The only new thing on the bench is an RCBS lead casting pot and that only because my second hand Lyman died a peaceful death after many years of faithful service.
A good reloading manual is essential the minimum and maximum loads are gospel and go past them is asking for trouble. Trouble of the KBOOM type
Some of the stuff on the Uboob is pretty good, some is nuts. Bottom Dealing Mike (www.duelist1954) is a good source as is this forum.
With time comes experience and i do not claim to be an expert but have a modicum of experience.
Yr' Obt' Svt'
Bunk

[Ben Beam]

I'll likely go the Lee route. I've thought a few times about spending a bit more for a progressive press, but being that I'm new to all this I think I'd be better served paying close attention to every step along the way. I'm keeping an eye on craigslist and eBay for good deals.

Does it matter if the manual is slightly outdated? There's plenty of previous editions of various manuals available on Amazon for cheap.

Is there any powder I can safely use that produces more smoke? I imagine it'll require more thorough cleaning after shooting, but I'm pretty fastidious about that already.