Reducing the mainspring power on Uberti Cattleman

[Black River Smith]

I have two Uberti Stoeger Cattleman that I need to reduce the mainspring cocking tension on.

What is the best option:  Put a spacer behind the spring; replace with a Cim Model P spring; use a Wolff 1873 spring; or use a Lee Gunsmithing spring?

I want to only replace the mainspring and I see 'replacement spring sets' from Lee Gunsmithing.  Does anyone sell just their mainspring?

I have a Cim Model P that is comfortable enough to work but what would be the correct 'order part' from Cim, so that I would mimic the factory mainspring?  They list a mainspring and an Evil Roy mainspring.

Thanks

[Abilene]

BRS:
A spacer behind the spring will only reduce it a bit, but is easy to try (I use #10 stainless split washer).  The Model P and Cattleman mainsprings should be the same part (you can verify this by parts lists on vtigunparts.com and cimarron-firearms.com .  They do seem to vary, though.  Seems to me that when Pietta started putting lighter mainsprings in their guns, Uberti lightened up theirs somewhat, but some feel heavier out of the box than others.  I don't have experience with the Lee spring but know many use it.  VTI carries the lighter Pietta spring as well.  The Wolff spring and the ER are both a bit heavier than some light springs.  You can always put the spacer under a lighter spring as well.  I'm not sure if they still do it but the ER's used to be shipped with a spacer under the ER spring, so that in case someone ran into hard primer / light strike issues, they could remove the spacer for a bit more power.

edit: if you do order a spring from Cimarron, get the ER.  The regular mainsprings have been in stock for a long time and are probably no lighter than what is in your guns.

[Black River Smith]

Abilene,

Thanks for the suggestions.

[Coffinmaker]

Spent many years tuning up SAs for CAS.  You basically have four (4) choices.  Re-grind the OEM Springs.  If your not conversant in Spring Grinding 101, I don't suggest this option.  Wolff reduced power main Springs.  VTI GUNPARTS reduced power main Springs.  "Lee's Gunsmithing Gunfighter" main springs.  I personally prefer the springs from VTI and Lee's.  If you haven't eliminated all the drag points in your actions, I go with Wolff.

Coffinmaker

PS:  Forgot.  If your going to learn Spring Grinding 101, first purchase a couple two three OEM springs cause your gonna screw some up.
You can get Wolff Main Springs from Brownells or direct from Wolff.  VTI from VTI (DUH) and Lee's also from Brownells.

[Cholla Hill Tirador]

   I did three mainspring work on three Uberti's but the lock time was noticable reduced which I didn't care for at all. I've since gone back to the factory springs. They're not all that heavy anyhow, in my opinion.

  CHT

[Navy Six]

If you do screw up a spring or two now is a good time. Taylors has a buy one get one free sale on standard Uberti mainsprings. I just ordered a couple yesterday. For $8.60 plus shipping, how can you go wrong.

[Abilene]

If you do screw up a spring or two now is a good time. Taylors has a buy one get one free sale on standard Uberti mainsprings. I just ordered a couple yesterday. For $8.60 plus shipping, how can you go wrong.

That reminds me that Cimarron has had wolff springs on their bargain page for some time.  $7.50 plus shipping.  They bought a bunch of them years ago when they were experimenting with springs for the Evil Roy.  http://www.cimarron-firearms.com/wolf-spring-bargain.html

[Black River Smith]

Abilene,

Thanks for the new info and link.  I just bought three of them.  I also pickup the split washers, today.  I will try both to see what works for my situations.

BRS

[Abilene]

You know, if someone did want to practice with thinning factory mainsprings, I'll bet a lot of CAS gunsmiths out there would be happy to give you some.  Once 'smiths started using aftermarket springs for ease, speed, and consistency, they end up with a box full of stock springs.  Hey Coffinmaker, what didja do with your box of springs?   

[Coffinmaker]

Say Abilene!!

Now that your mention it.  When I sick and tired of the taste of ground steel and went to after-market for ease, speed and consistency, I wound up with a box of Main Springs.  I probably still have 12 or 15 springs in a box labeled ..... Main Springs.  'Magine dat!! 

Coffinmaker

[45 Dragoon]

Hmmmm .  .   .  
 I just lighten the spring that comes with the revolver. If it's thick, I thin it first then "fine tune" it by narrowing it. It takes about 5-10 mins. to dress a spring down.  The consistency comes from installing and checking draw weight. Pocket guns, Armys/Navys/Remies leave here with a 4 lb. draw. The Walker/Dragoons/S.A.A. copies leave with a 3 1/2 lb draw. The massive hammer of the horse pistols allow for the lighter draw weight (the cartridge guns are fine at that weight). As C.M. said, reliving the energy robing properties of the rest of the action is what allows reliability and maintain a quick "lock time".

I will say that lately, I've been experimenting with coil and pushrod/plunger setups (a la 3 screw Ruger) that replace all the flat springs (except the mainspring) but keep the feel of the flats and without inducing throw-by that is typical of the Ruger.  The nicest thing about the " new" trigger return spring setup is that it allows for screw adjustment of the trigger weight. This (setup) promises ignition reliability with life long action parts. Of course the last step in the process would be a solid bolt and a coil main. The unbreakable open top would be the culmination of form and function!!

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
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