A New (used) Henry...

[mtmarfield]

   Well, I've finally refilled a 'vacuum' in my collection: I now have a used Uberti Henry .44WCF Rifle.
Having owned an older ca 1982 Uberti / EMF Yellow Boy Carbine in .44WCF for a few years, and lost
my fear of "flimsy, brass receivers",  I decided to grab a nice used brass-framed Henry. This is a ca
1996 production rifle [BH], and is stamped Dixie Gun Works, etc.
   Overall, it's rather nice, and although not mentioned in the ad, it has sling mounts. I had planned on
acquiring these from VTI and installing them anyhow, so this is a bonus.
   Disassembly and detail cleaning will be the first order, even though it appears to be very nice. I might
order a set of Fire-Blued Screws to dress things up a bit.
   Photos coming...

              M.T.Marfield
   

[nativeshootist]

Congrats man!

[mtmarfield]

 Uh, oh... Problems. Going back to seller. Damn.

                M.T.Marfield

[Pettifogger]

What kind of problems?

[mtmarfield]

   Greetings!   It arrived with a drooping Lever (Broken spring?), and some of the Screws are boogered...
For what I paid, it's going back. I spoke to the seller; I'll receive a full refund.

[Abilene]

The drooping lever is a weak or loose spring.  The two screws side by side on the bottom of the receiver, try to tighten the one that is on the right if you have the rifle upside down, looking down on it with the muzzle pointed away from you.  That will increase the tension on the leaf spring that is supposed to hold the lever up.  Tightening past the point of it staying up will just increase the effort needed to lever the gun.  If tightening it doesn't help, then it probably needs a new spring.

[mtmarfield]

   Greetings!   

   Yes, that would cure the Lever issue, but there are other problems...
It's going back.

[mtmarfield]

   Great News!

   I have a Dixie Gun Works Henry in transit: Standard Brass Frame, .44WCF ctg. Currently on sale, and
I should have it by mid week...

                    M.T.Marfield

[Coffinmaker]

When you get your Brandy Damn New 1860 Henry, your gonna have an absolute ball trying to get it apart.  First the screws.  They were installed by Bongo.  Uberti's pet gorilla.  I would STRONGLY suggest a nice 1/4" impact driver with fitted bits from Brownells.  Next up for bids will be the Side Plates.  Typical Uberti, they (the side plates) are slightly oversize and very, very, very, very .... did I mention VERY TIGHT??  The side plates will be very tight (usually).  You will need a nylon head mallet to drive the side plates UP ^.  Tapping front and back of the plate alternating to get them off.  Then, back down to get them back on.  Whatever you do, DO NOT over-tighten the lever pivot screw.  If you strip the threads out of the side plate, your screwed.

Taking out the lever side spring screws will be an absolute JOY.  If your a Masochist.  Your best bet is to push the front of the springs out of the frame (they are not square in the frame and bind the screws) to take the pressure off the screw threads and the back of the spring.  You'll also find, the back of the spring has NOT been properly contoured to the radius of the frame.  Fix that before you put it back together.  Or, Put the lever side spring is a safe place (trash can) and fit a set of SlixSpring lever side springs.  They will take some fitting but you will be much happier and you won't wear out the lever side cam.

Once the screws have been successfully and neatly removed the first time, you won't need a set of hardened screws.

Coffinmaker

PS:  Please be so kind as to consider ...... you can SHAVE with the edges of the Side Plates.  EXTREME caution .... vorsicht Bitte.

[mtmarfield]

   Coffinmaker!

   Thanks for the advice! I've had 'experiences' with the lever springs before... How does one contour the springs?
Can you recommend a tutorial (YouTube)?
   An Impact Screwdriver sounds like a good investment; I no longer have a workbench at my disposal. Can you
recommend an appropriate gunsmith? I'm new here, and I'm in Lafayette, CO (Northern Central Colorado).
   The only time I truly enjoyed disassembling a Winchester Toggle-Link was my old mid-production 1876; the fit
and finish was a REVELATION in comparison to my Discount Italian 1876 Centennial .50-95 (Honestly, I was lucky,
it's a great shooter...)!
   I have been 'bitten' by sharp edges before! Side plates, and the Magazine opening... Drew blood. I am not a CAS
competitor... Yet. Just a vintage firearms afficionado. Do I / should I need to replace the springs? I've read many a
time that it's recommended for increasing the longevity of the Brass-framed Rifles, but I just don't see myself abusing
my 1866 or Henry that way. Your thoughts? Anyone else?

         THANK YOU!

                    M.T.Marfield

[Cliff Fendley]

I don't know about the Henry but the newer 66's I've taken apart don't have the dovetails so you have to slide the sideplate off. The screws are the only thing holding it on.

[Coffinmaker]

OK.
Hi Cliff (Don't jump from a Hi Cliff - couldn't resist).  1866s don't have double dovetails.  Dovetail at one end only.  Real simple to remove.  They are however, still very sharp.

mtmarfield,
Well, had I retained my FFL when I retired, I'd have you send it to me ... oh well.  Most of what I'll recommend to you is fairly simple.  There is the consideration however, without some form of padded vice or the ability to clamp the rifle down, your working one handed.
I consider replacing the springs as an absolute must.  It has nothing to do with the "brass frame."  The Uberti built Toggle Link Rifles are simply over-sprung.  The overly heavy springs cause unduly rapid wear to the internal moving parts and make the gun heavy to operate.
Replacing the Lever Side Springs will prolong the life of the lever and the carrier block lifter arm.  They will take a minor amount of fitting which you can do with good file and a straight edge.  You can get SlixSprings from Badman Bullets in Oregon (on the web).  I also suggest replacing the Main Spring (OEM belongs under a Dodge Ram).  You can get a reduced Main Spring from Slick Magic (also on the web).  A nice set of Brownells fitted screwdrivers is a must.  If I were to send your rifle out, it would go to Jim Lincoln at "The Cowboys and Indian Store" in California (on the web).  The end result of replacing the springs will be a much smoother, lighter running, more user friendly rifle that will be a joy to play with rather than a heavy running PITA.  The biggest bang for your buck is a good action job.  If your not going to compete in CAS, a short stroke would be a waste of money.

Coffinmaker

[mtmarfield]

   Cliff & Coffinmaker!

   Thank You Both for the reply! A week ago, I picked up a  Wheeler Engineering Screwdriver Set
at work to replace my aged Chapman Set; is this a good brand? A 1/4" Impact Driver is on my List...
   OK. It looks like Lever Springs will be replaced; the Hammer Spring isn't very heavy, and the Trigger
pull is light, crisp, with nil to zero creep. I'm actually rather impressed.
   "Cowboys & Indians" was a twenty minute drive away, when I was living in CA; an older Gent
inspected my 1982 vintage 1866 Carbine, and took it into the back. For a price that seemed like chicken
feed, he ground down my springs, spot-welded and shaped the bearing surfaces of the Carrier Lever,
and checked the headspace (OK)! I must've looked unemployed & broke ( I was...). VERY NICE people,
attentive, and courteous.
   I'm going shooting tomorrow, so I'll defer the Spring Surgery briefly. I have a few boxes of "Cowboy
.44-40" to play with; no BP cartridges loaded up, yet. I need more beeswax. I have a #43-215C mould
from Accurate on order, and many more in my Bullet Mould Collection...
   Cliff & Coffinmaker, Thank You Both for the courtesy of responding! I feel rather isolated here, with
all of my Shooting Chums so far away. In time, I'm hoping that others will introduce themselves, so
that I can cultivate new shooting / hunting / fishing friendships here in my new Home State!

             Be Well!

                            M.T.Marfield
   

[mtmarfield]

   P.S. ~

   Th DGW Henry has arrived! The Date Stamp is [CM]. Although not mentioned on the Dixie Gun Works
website, it came with Sling Attachments; it was my intention to acquire and install these ( albiet, on the
right-hand side ), so I'm pleased with that.
   Chambering is for the .44WCF, and for now, I'm OK with that; I'm well equipped with all manner of
reloading equipment, vintage and modern, for this cartridge, although a straight walled case has some
visual appeal...
   There are protective celluloid applique's on the receiver, the RH side cut for the King's Patent... The
Rear Sight doesn't flop around, and the Elevator is snug throughout its travel.
   The "Rubber Pencil Eraser" is present and recessed in the Magazine Follower. I'm yet undecided as to
whether it will stay or go; a punch of thick leather, or short piece of hardwood may take the place of the
"eraser".
   Test Shooting commences tomorrow. More to come!

              M.T.Marfield 

[mtmarfield]

   Greetings!

   After a "Safety / Range Etiquette / Henry School of Instruction" talk with my
brother-in-law, we proceeded to Baker Draw Shooting Area, Pawnee Grasslands,
CO.
   The winds saw my target replaced by a 5" Disk Gong, which resolutely refused
to be blown away; I, however, was taken aback by my new recruit's ability with
the Henry, he having never before held a firearm, hitting the target with nearly
every shot...
   My Henry .44 appears to be sighted in for "Ten Rods"; actual targeting will need
to be deferred to a calmer day.
   My Accurate Mould #43-215C has arrived, and I can't wait to melt some soft
sheet lead in it's name... BP handloads in the offing. Stay tuned.

                    M.T.Marfield 

[mtmarfield]

    An Image.

[Tuolumne Lawman]

Nice!  It took me 10 minutes to polish out the tarnished area on mine where the loading gate would be, so it matched the rest.

[mtmarfield]

   Greetings!

   You noticed!! Yes, it stands out... I may try something mild.

                M.T.Marfield

[mtmarfield]

   Todays Bullet-Casting Session...

   I spent part of my afternoon on the side patio with three moulds: my new Accurate #43-215C, which
dropped beautiful slugs; an old Lyman #429 roundball, and an odd Hensley & Gibbs #240-X, the product
of which looks for all the world like 1/2 of a roundball with a driving band on its circumference.
   With a Lee Production Pot filled with "pure", soft sheet lead ( BHN to come ), I cast one hundred of the
Accurate slugs, and about forty each of the latter two moulds. The Roundball and Gallery slugs are specifically
earmarked for short-range small game BP loads.
   See Photos ( hope it works, this time...).

                  M.T.Marfield   

[mtmarfield]

   Greetings!

   Well, the BHN of the bullets that I'd cast from the sheet lead hover around 5.5 & 6... Can't complain
any.
   I just got around to tapping a lead ball through my Henrys bore: unless my mic has serious issues,
bore & groove are .418" to .430", respectively; in my opinion, that's much better than DGW's measure-
ments of .424" to .432".

                 M.T.Marfield