1858 Remington

[Niederlander]

Hello!  I asked this on one of the other forums and haven't got an answer, so I'll ask you gentlemen.  Does anyone here shoot an 1858 Remington regularly?  (Especially one of the new forged frame Uberti's.)  If so, does it run well?  How do you like it in comparison to the Colt types?

[Zeke Zelazko]

I have both. The 1858's are dependable and seem to have fewer cap jamming issues. They do not fit my hand very well - a very long reach with the thumb to cock them for me. The Colt patterns fit my hand better and I enjoy shooting more than the Remington's as I can shoot the Colts "dualist" one-handed.  Most of the 1858's have mainsprings like truck springs and are difficult to cock - that is easily dealt with by thinning the mainsprings down. The 1858's make great cartridge conversions. I guess that's why I own both types!

[PJ Hardtack]

I've got four .44 Remingtons, the last one a Pietta that has more room between the front strap and the trigger guard which makes it more comfortable for people with large hands.
Even with my small paw, I find the others will give me a knuckle rap if I don't have a good grip.

[Pitspitr]

I had a Pietta colt replica before I got my Pietta Remington. I like the Remington better. As has been said earlier fewer caps end up in the mechanism. I seldom shoot it C&B as I have a Kirst conversion. I shoot it better than any of my other cowboy/GAF guns

[Silver Creek Slim]

I had 5 Remington New Model Army clones; 3 Piettas and 2 Ubertis. I prefer the Piettas for the reason PJ Hardtack stated. I have 2 conversion cylinders that work in both makes, but are a bit painful in the Ubertis. The key to keeping them running with BP is lots of lube. I put lube grooves in the base pin. I can post a picture if you want.

Slim

[Niederlander]

Please do!

[ira scott]

Slim, it's interesting you would mention lube grooves in a 58 Remington base pin!  I met a gentleman at our last BRR shoot who was shooting an original 58 Remington conversion! I watched him giving it a little love between stages(lubing the base pin) and noticed the lube grooves which he said he had added. He was also shooting an original 66 carbine and a Henry both of which he had converted to centerfire! Meeting him reminded me of why I enjoy the various historical shooting sports, meeting interesting people, and getting to see some really cool old guns! As to Dale's original question, one disadvantage to the Remington is the excellent Ted Cash snail cappers won't fit/work unless you remove a little metal from around the nipples.

[Silver Creek Slim]

I chucked the round end in my drill press and filed the grooves in it with a small round file. BTW, I learned this from another CAS shooter.

Slim

[River City John]

Ned, I made a jig to keep my cylinder aligned and clamped guides and a stop piece on the bed of my hobby drill press. Adjusted the height to just clear the nipple notches, chucked a ball cutter into the press and carefully pushed the jig into the cutter along guides 'till I hit the stop. Back out, take the cylinder off the jig and rotate to bring the next nipple slot forward. Clean up with emery cloth and touch up with spot bluing, and reinstall the nipples. Oil stains on the jig are from small application of cutting oil each time. Now my cappers fit into the recesses.

I shoot both '51 and Remington clones. For our Ruckus I carried a R & D conversion cylinder for the Remington. First pistol I loaded cap 'n' ball, then changed out to my pre-loaded conversion cylinder on the clock. Worked very well for me.

RCJ

[Delmonico]

I chucked the round end in my drill press and filed the grooves in it with a small round file. BTW, I learned this from another CAS shooter.

Slim

Proper term is Polish Lathe.

[Professor Marvel]

My Dear John -
I admire your invntiveness and am well impressed regarding how the cylinder windows came out!
They actually look much like a Rogers ad Spencer cylinder now
yhs
prf mvl

[Good Troy]

I have a pair of Pieta Remington copies.  I've used them only once in a match, and only part way through....it wasn't the guns so much as me.  I had a couple of quick fires...finger was on the trigger (unintentionally) when I released the hammer, and the gun went off immediately..down range of course and 2 of 3 times it was a hit...thanks in large part to close and large targets.  Some of this was due to having to reach furhter for the hammer than I'm use to doing (like with Colt copies).  I've since worked on this and essentially eliminated that issue.  Sometimes, as with other C&B revolvers I have (Pietta Colt copies), I get hot caps on shooting hand and caught between my hand and the grip.  I've started using a s fingerless glove. 

I also openned up the cylinder around the caps so that I can use a snail capper.  Not as skillfully as RCJ did..I marked the boundarys of where i wanted my cut-out to be, and free-handed it with a stone on a small Dremel.  The tool got away from me a few times, and I have some stray marks, but I can cap it with the Ted Cash snail capper.

I had issues with fouling.  As mentioned, generous amount of lube will keep them running duiring the stage.  As a safe guard, I would wipe the cylinder and pin with a wet wipe when reloading. I've also discovered that a full 35 g of 3F runs cleaner that reduced loads...better compression and more complete combustion is likely the reason. Yesterday, I shot 60 rounds of round ball , 35 g of 3F Goex, and well lubricated felt wad.  I intentionally didn't clean the cylinder face or pin, and didn't have any fouling issues. 

I plan to use one of the revolvers in the Berger Memorial NCOWS Match this week.  I'm going to try some Olde Eynsford 3 F as it seems to burn cleaner than the generic Goex.  I'll give an update some time next week...at least on the gun's performance...not necessarily my performance...unless it is good!



I will share this as well,  I initially had issues keeping the cylcinder from fouling quickly.  I've found, as mentioned, that generous amounts of lube, and a full 35 g charge of 2F keeps them running smoothly.  started shooting these with 25 g of 2F to avoid the bruised knuckle I got with heavier charges.  when I first started shooting them I was getting the knuckle bust from the trigger guard like other folks have mentioned.  I reduced the load to 25 g of 2F....

[Silver Creek Slim]

Proper term is Polish Lathe.

Got it. 

Slim

[Good Troy]

Update as mentioned in earlier post....I shot one of my Pietta 1858 NMA revolvers at the Berger Sharpshooters Memorial match this past week/weekend.  I had no no malfunctions for the 60 rounds fired.  Twice, I had to fight the hammer because of a spent cap dragging, but no jams.  I used 35 grains Goex 3F, wonderwad and a 0.451 round ball.  I did, however, have to put a glove on my grip hand, as I had a cap land in the palm of my grip on an early stage...this happens sometimes!

[PJ Hardtack]

I like the nipple recess mod! And I think I'll put some grooves in the cylinder arbor pin.

These tips should be posted on the gunsmithing forum.

[smoke]

Tagging this...I'm seeing a cold weather project coming on.