RCBS 12Ga Die - All Brass

[Coffinmaker]

OK, I broke down.  I got real tired of the drill press to de-cap, re-prime and read wads.  So I broke down and ordered up the RCBS
Die for All Brass 12Ga.  Trick.  Except >>>>>>

Mine won't De-Cap.  The De-Cap Pin just slides up and down in the die body and doesn't stop to De-Prime.  Anybody else having the
same problem??  Solution??

Coffinmaker

[Bunk Stagnerg]

I will drag out my RCBS die set and check it out. I think it did work when I used brass cases until one of my Winchester cases got stepped on and I put them away and went to cheap plastic (ew) cases.
Report up coming
Bunk

[Bunk Stagnerg]

Friend CoffinMaker
I have my die set in hand and it would appear you have few pieces missing. I will try to get out my Kodak and make a tin type and emule the whole thing to you. It will be tomorrow but quickly done.

,Yr' Obt' Svt'
Bunk

[Coffinmaker]

Hi Bunk .... >>>>> and All 

Well, after taking that sucker apart umpteen times, reassembling it umpteen different ways, I finally just THREW IT AGAINST THE WALL!!

A.  IT DIDN'T STICK!!

B.  THAT DIDN'T FIX IT!!

So, I broke down and read the instructions.  That didn't help either.  So I threw the instructions away. 

Then ....... Horror of all Horrors, I called RCBS.  Guy was talking about there not being enough parts to mine.  Said something about a
Thingamajig being in there with the Framasand.  He's sending me a whole new Dooflopus.  KOOL!!

But I got to thinking, I have a few Thingamajigs in my parts box, and thought I new what he was talking about.  So I took the sucker apart
for the Umpteumpth time, and put a Thingamajig on top of the Framasand just below the spring thingie (tech term) and put it all back
together.  Grabbed a hull and stuck it in there.  PING!!  Out popped a primer.  Did it again >>> PING!!  Out popped a primer.  Never worked moren oncest before.  Works a treat now.  Still going to keep the new one though.

But HEY!!!!  FIX'D IT!!

Coffinmaker!!

[Lefty Dude]

You can send the new one West, I'll check it out for ya. Might return it in a few Years. LOL-------------

[Blair]

Been there, done that!
It is kind of like trashing everything and showing off your ass, before you can get it all together and finish the project.
My best,
Blair

[Coffinmaker]

Golly Gee Lefty!!  THANKS!!  I really appreciate that!!

I've been having an ongoing miss-fire problem with my Brass Hulls.  Seems seating the primers with my drill press wasn't getting them
solidly inna pocket.  I broke down and bought a Lee Classic and stuck the RCBS die innit.  WOWZERS.  World of difference.  My
miss-fire problem up and went away.  A press with a proper Primer Seater Thingie is just the Biz.

Blair,

You betcha.  I just hate it when some piddly mechanical contrivance is getting the best of me.  Just drives me knutz.  Like any good
press, switching from some hand methods to modern convenience is like going from a "Pull Kart" to a Ferrari!!

Coffinmaker

[Bibbyman]

I only sleep a few hours at a time - interrupted by being wide away for a couple of hours.  I use to toss and turn and get mad because I couldn't go back to sleep.  Since retired,  I've given up and may just get up and do things. 

One thing came to me was that many years ago I bought a Lee hand press.  The important thing was that it came with a priming post and die part that will take a standard shell holder.  BINGO!  This ment I could just buy the RCBS shell holder.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/728999/lee-ram-prime-priming-unit-for-single-stage-press

As you see,  the priming post comes well past the base of the shell holder.  It will seat the primer to the bottom of the pocket.

I don't have a press with big hole to mount the RCBS 12 gauge dies.  I really don't need those parts as I have a MEC 600 for 10 gauge.

[Blackpowder Burn]

Coffinmaker............

I have an RCBS brass hull die, and have the same problem.  I called RCBS and they sent me a replacement depriming mechanism...........and I still have the same problem.  It did't work either.  Now all I use the die set for is to prime using the shell holder and put a roll crimp on the case mouth.

Could you perhaps post a photo of how you fixed yours with the thingamajig and the framasand??! 

[Bibbyman]

Here is my high-tech decaping machine.  Base of a 10 gauge wad with Lee decaping pin.

[Coffinmaker]

Blackpowder Burn >>>

Sure!!  Except I have never been able to post a photo.  I'll have to e-Mail the photo to Major 2 and ask his not inconsiderable help.

BUTT!!  Allow me to describe.  The inner shaft, pokes up thru the Die Hat and has a spring cir-clip to keep it there.  Under the Hat, the
Central Shaft has first a Spring and then another Cir-Clip.  THAT!!!  Is the problem.  Between the Cir-Clip and the Spring, there should
be some form of flat washer.  Without the flat washer, the Cir-Clip deforms on the De-Prime stroke and just slides down the central shaft.

Option # 1.  At the top of the ram stroke, with a small plastic head mallet, WHACK the central shaft just enough to De-Prime.  It works
very well, although a NUISANCE!!

Option # 2.  In my stash of Useless and "I forget what they are" stuff, I had a nifty nylon flat washer, that fit the central shaft perfectly
and was just a smudge smaller than the diameter of the Cir-Clip.  I flattened the Cir-Clip back out (it deformed) and squeezed it back to
fit the notch inna shaft and reassembled.  Cir-clip > Nylon Washer > Spring > Large Die Top Hat > Cir-Clip.  After I put it all back together,
I stuffed in a Hull and "PING" - out popped a primer.  Works a treat now.

Should my Brandy Dam'd Knew D-Prime DooFlopus arrive without the Washer on top of the Cir-Clip, I'll be off to the hardware store for
another washer (only had one).  Purpose:  Flat washer on top of the Cir-Clip prevents the the recess in the top cap from loading the
outside rim of the Cir-Clip and deforming it out of it's slot in the shaft.  The Spring resets the whole thing.  The Die body should be
adjusted "up" to the point the D-Kapper just pops the primer and then "snaps" back into place.  Now works a treat!!

Coffinmaker

[Lefty Dude]

I have the MEC brass shell adaptor on an old MEC 600 Jr. press. I use this to cap & re-prime my cases. I also have a 12 ga. shell holder I can use to prime my Brasser's .

As I have stated here before, I carefully ream my pockets, and make sure the flash hole is the proper size on all new cases before I do the first reload. Saves a lot of frustration later on. I have had primer pockets so tight that when I tried to seat, the primer was completely destroyed.

[Coffinmaker]

Hey Lefty 

After I fell into the Well (Lassie ..... Go Get Lefty) and dove into All Brass 12s, I realized ALL brass hulls are not created equal.  Learned
to give all new hulls a good visual inspection.  I have not had any Primer Pocket problems except the Drill Press not seating them fully.
On some, when the full base of the hull is flat on the Drill Press Table, there is still some Pocket to go.  Also, the Drill Press Table has
some "flex" in it.  Just enough of those two problems to give me fits with ignition.  With a dedicated primer seater, that problem has
gone bye bye.
I am looking forward to much more Harmonious shotgun stages 

Coffinmaker

[Lefty Dude]

I believe the new brasser's have better QC now than in the past. Just my recent observation, ya understand.

The first few boxes I bought 6 or 7 years ago were crap.

[Coffinmaker]

Hey Lefty,
I can't speak for the "old" manufactured hulls.  I've only been running All Brass for ... ah ..... two and part of a third season now.  So
far, Primer Pockets have been good, but with my Drill Press method, I only got the primers "flush" with the base.  On some hulls that
left the primer slightly away from full seated.  Instant miss-fire which seated the primer, then re-cock which fired fine.  Just a real
nuisance and time consuming during a match.  Frustrating too.
Switching to the Lee Classic with the RCBS Die in it, has eliminated the primer seating problem and I am very happy now that the die is
also D-Kapping as it should.  Welcome to the 20th Century 
It is however, very important to follow your lead and prep the mouth of the hulls prior to loading.  Those hulls can really be rough and SHARP!!
Combine all of the above with Bibbyman's lead with 10Ga plastic wads and I are now turning out very competitive All Brass 12s.

Coffinmaker

[Lefty Dude]

I guess I must try the 10 ga wads Y'all are bragging about. You get them at BPI right ? And what is it that I must find ? Part number, etc ?

[Coffinmaker]

Yepper!!  Get em from BPI.  The wad is a PT1044.  I used it both with and without a nitro over powder (1/8 In) wad with great results.

Coffinmaker

[Lefty Dude]

Thanks, Pards   

[Bibbyman]

The Remington SP-10 is on left. The  BPI PT-1044 on the left.  The Remington SP-10 may be easier to find. 

[Coffinmaker]

Hmmmmmmm .....    Seems Bibbyman has two "lefts."   

Just couldn't resist.  The voices in my head made me do it 

Coffinmaker