Defarbing- The Logic will ultimately bear fruit

[Major 2]

In the Open Top Forum  I offered the tutorial in how to remove unsightly wording & nomenclature from your Replica Colt Navy.

Commonly known as Defarbing, here I will show the process I used on a Spiller & Burr...

one could remove the barrel and proceed, but the extra work is totally unnecessary.

You will have modify your file
and you will find a small  VACUUM SUCTION BASE Vise is helpful...I had mine , I think I got on Amazon, but Harbor Freight has some or Ebay.

The gun was prior tuned to solve a minor bolt fit issue common with Piettas.

The Black powder Only & <logo> F.LLI Pietta  - Made in Italy are a glaring anachronism IMHO and had to go.

So first I cut the file ( an 8" Medium Mill ) to remove the tang , this allows you to use the file as a draw file length ways down the flat of the barrel ...

you will want to use blue painter tape to  mask the other barrel flats & I also used it to close off the frame & action

after the first 2 or three stokes you will note the roll marks actually raised the metal a bit , in fact the letters are not very deep
Only maybe 30 strokes were necessary to to completely remove Black Powder only .... F.LLI Pietta part is a bit deeper and that side took 36 strokes....

It is important to clear your file about every 3rd pass to remove fillings otherwise they act as little bearings and the file skips and does not cut well ,  also they can lead to scratches which will require more work to polish out.

I used 320 Wet Dry & 400 Wet Dry , you can use water ...I tried Moose milk  because its mostly water and I had some in spray bottle... it worked just fine    

[Major 2]

Next is the finish

after polishing with the wet & dry papers ...and inspecting ... I removed the tape on the barrel
degreased with Gun-Scrubber ( again because I had some ) they make Gun Cleaner-Degreaser for bluing or you can even use Brake Cleaner
( I'm told not to use chlorinated brake cleaner, fumes are hazardous )

I had Birchwood Casey Perma Blue liquid so that is what I used , applied with cotton balls and the result was  

After


and finally before

[Coffinmaker]

Oh Yeeeeessssssssssssss!!   

Coffinmaker

[Abilene]

Excellent.

[Dakota Ike]

Great post.  I will have to do this to my Pietta 1851 Navy.

[Major 2]

Thanks fellows

I used a 8" Medium Mill from Home Depot $9.00 a new file save extra strokes and was well worth it.

And my vise, from Amazon  I had it but as I recall about $20 with Prime's free shipping.

Note: the vice is Vacuum based and is rock solid on my marble  leather cutting top, also the pivot head allows you a very comfortable angle to draw the file....
Though not necessary,  it made the job so easy I highly recommend one besides I use for stitching leather and 100 more 3 hand projects.  Note: the padded jaws

[Blair]

I am not at all fond of "Defarbing" reproduction firearms.
Defarbing removes the markings that allow an individual to order replacement parts from the actual manufacture of those parts.(should those parts be needed)

However, once a firearm is owned by someone, they may do what ever they like with it.
Just my opinion....
My best,
Blair

[Noz]

I used the draw filing idea on a 20 ga single shot barrel that was badly rust pitted. Filed out the deepest pits and then used a "shoe shine" technique with descending sizes of emery cloth to finish. Came out pretty good. I did it forr a friend and will never willingly do it again.

[Major 2]

We have a winner 

[LonesomePigeon]

Nice. Is it more difficult to remove markings that are on round barrels?

[Rebel Dave]

Major
How did you cut the file,??.

Rebel Dave

[Blair]

Rebel Dave,

Don't worry about "cutting" the file.
Draw filing is done by placing the handle side of the file in the left hand, and pulling, "drawing" it towards yourself along the surface. Round or flat.
This can be done with a file as large as a 14" bastard file, or as small as a 6" mill file. Or anything in between.
The larger file of course means more course the markings will be in the surface of the metal you wish to draw file.
I hope this info helps.
Mt best,
Blair

[Major 2]

Major
How did you cut the file,??.

Rebel Dave

Hi Rebel Dave

the reason I cut the file is simple .... Files cut away from the tang,  not on a pull to the tang stroke.

I draw file from the frame to the muzzle 

you do not have to remove the barrel ,  I cut the file ( an 8" Medium Mill ) to remove the tang , this allows you to use the file flat and precisely against the step at the the frame for clean cut...otherwise the tang will ride on the frame 

shown clearly in this photo 

I cut the file with a cut off wheel for either an Air Tool  or Elec. Hand grinder

FYI a new file 8" works best and I used a Nickelson  Med, from Home Depot about $9 ...the new file is better as it cuts quicker (less passes ) and does not require a lot of polishing 4 -500 Grit Wet Dry and Bobs your Uncle...
Just remember to tap or brush you file about every 3-4 strokes to clear the filings

BTW... I have no problem knowing/remembering who made the gun once the nomenclature is removed
and getting parts are not a concern. I know where and how to get any I might need. 

[Major 2]

Nice. Is it more difficult to remove markings that are on round barrels?

Nope...  here though you will have follow through along the radius  to avoid forming a flat ..

harder to describe in words than to do    

[Rebel Dave]

Major and Blair

Thanks for the replies. THink I'll try it on a 51 Pietta Navy, in .44, ans see how it turns out. Ive got lo9ts of files. Time to get rid of some of those unwanted markins in the wrong place.

Rebel Dave

[Major 2]

in that case : http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,47437.0.html