Coil Style Handspring Modification

[Cemetery]

Awhile back, there was a brief discussion on hand springs, and modifying them to coil style.

Within this discussion, there was a quick mention of using an 'extended' plunger on the spring, so that one doesn't need to modify the hand.

And there was a photo provided of said 'extended' plunger.

I can't seem to locate this plunger, but does anybody recall this?

Where could I obtain these extended plungers?



EDIT: to clarify, I'm talking about this piece

[Lefty Dude]

[wildman1]

DML
Try Ruger I think.
Check on TOR as that is where LP has his article on modifying those. wM1

[Lefty Dude]

I buy them from Brownells;
Ruger cylinder latch spring, Ruger part # KH05000, Brownells # 780-000-464

Ruger Pawl Spring Plunger s/s, Ruger part # KE51, Brownells # 780-001-231

The above parts are listed in LP excellent articles.

[Fingers McGee]

What Lefty said

[Lefty Dude]

The proper size drill bit is also in the LP article. This bit size will give you the proper clearance for the spring/plunger.

Follow the direction set out by LP, and also the removal of the existing Hand Spring in the back of the Hand.

I have reworked 6 set of C&B Revolvers, and all work much better with the modification.

[Cemetery]

Ruger Pawl Spring Plunger s/s, Ruger part # KE51, Brownells # 780-001-231

Do you know if the above part is the 'extended' version?  Doesn't specify on the Brownells page.

[Lefty Dude]

What's your application ?

That spring works well on my 1851's & 1860 Pietta's. I have also used it on a pair of Second Generation Colt 51 navies.

[Cemetery]

What's your application ?

That spring works well on my 1851's & 1860 Pietta's. I have also used it on a pair of Second Generation Colt 51 navies.

Uberti 1860s.....

So when you used this spring and plunger, did you have to alter the hand in anyway? Or are these simply 'plug and play' after drilling the hole and such?

[Abilene]

Cimarron has plungers that look like that in the parts bin.  I thought they were supposed to be for the old "intermediate" type of coil hand spring that went in the backstrap screw hole, along with a hollow backstrap screw.  I have that style in an older Cimarron model P, and I lost the plunger, so I got the one mentioned but it is too large of a diameter to fit in the screw hole, and would be way too big to fit in a standard handspring hole (I ended up making a plunger out of something, can't remember what).  So I'm not really sure what that plunger is meant for.

[Lefty Dude]

Uberti 1860s.....

So when you used this spring and plunger, did you have to alter the hand in anyway? Or are these simply 'plug and play' after drilling the hole and such?

You remove the existing leaf spring, LP suggest breaking the leaf off. Once the leaf spring is removed, then you polish the back of the hand. I use my Dremel and the sanding disk. This takes off any rough machine/casting marks. Then I use a wet/dry paper to polish. You will want a very smooth surface for the plunger to ride on the back side of the Hand. If the back of the hand is rough you will feel this as you pull the hammer to battery/ full cock.
I would refer to LP article as he describes how to measure for the proper placement of the hole that will be drilled.

[Cemetery]

You remove the existing leaf spring, LP suggest breaking the leaf off. Once the leaf spring is removed, then you polish the back of the hand. I use my Dremel and the sanding disk. This takes off any rough machine/casting marks. Then I use a wet/dry paper to polish. You will want a very smooth surface for the plunger to ride on the back side of the Hand. If the back of the hand is rough you will feel this as you pull the hammer to battery/ full cock.
I would refer to LP article as he describes how to measure for the proper placement of the hole that will be drilled.

Oh, so the regular size Ruger plunger and spring will work?  I was under the impression that it would be too short, and you'd have to either get a longer plunger, or build up the back of the hand......

[Lefty Dude]

The Ruger Spring & plunger that is suggested by Pettifogger is not the combination used in the RV, BH and etc. They are Ruger parts that adapt well for the modification he developed. IIRC; the RV components are rather large for the area which must be drilled to accommodate the modification hand requirement.
Again I suggest you study and read the article for which many of us here have been successful in modifying our Colts and making them more competitive shooters for our sport.
If you feel you can not do such work on your piece, then have it done by a SAA Gun Smith. I would expect this to be at least a $50.00 -  $75.00 job for each piece.

[Professor Marvel]

For your edification and entertainment, here's the "easy link" to TOR articles:
http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/

here are Larsen's articles, you will want Pietta Part 2:

http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/Tuning_the_Pietta_Part_One.pdf
http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/Tuning_the_Pietta_Part_Two.pdf

http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/Tuning_the_Uberti_Open_Top_Revolvers_Part_1.pdf
http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/Tuning_the_Uberti_Open_Top_Revolvers_Part_2.pdf
http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/Tuning_the_Uberti_Open_Top_Revolvers_Part_3.pdf
http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/Tuning_the_Uberti_Open_Top_Revolvers_Part_4.pdf

yhs
prof marvel

[Flatbush]

I buy them from Brownells;
Ruger cylinder latch spring, Ruger part # KH05000, Brownells # 780-000-464

Ruger Pawl Spring Plunger s/s, Ruger part # KE51, Brownells # 780-001-231

The above parts are listed in LP excellent articles.

I also used these parts to modify some Pietta 1851's. The plungers were the right length, and no work was required on the hands. (except of course for removing the leaf spring, and some polishing)

I did this work because I had read where the OEM hands/springs are prone to breakage. In time I also picked up some 1860's, but didn't do the spring modification just to see how long the OEM springs would last. I've shot Frontiersman with them for many years and they're still going strong. Who knows, maybe they'll never break!

[Noz]

I also used these parts to modify some Pietta 1851's. The plungers were the right length, and no work was required on the hands. (except of course for removing the leaf spring, and some polishing)

I did this work because I had read where the OEM hands/springs are prone to breakage. In time I also picked up some 1860's, but didn't do the spring modification just to see how long the OEM springs would last. I've shot Frontiersman with them for many years and they're still going strong. Who knows, maybe they'll never break!

I saw Fingers McGee break two separate hand spring on two guns less than 15 minutes apart.  If you haven't broken one you are a lucky man.  I've broken 5 or 6 and they always break on the 7th stage of a 10 stage match when you are really shooting well, up to that point.

[Flatbush]

While I was typing that I was thinking to myself, "Now watch them break the very next time I use them!"

[Cemetery]

The Ruger Spring & plunger that is suggested by Pettifogger is not the combination used in the RV, BH and etc. They are Ruger parts that adapt well for the modification he developed. IIRC; the RV components are rather large for the area which must be drilled to accommodate the modification hand requirement.
Again I suggest you study and read the article for which many of us here have been successful in modifying our Colts and making them more competitive shooters for our sport.
If you feel you can not do such work on your piece, then have it done by a SAA Gun Smith. I would expect this to be at least a $50.00 -  $75.00 job for each piece.

Oh ok.........(reread LP's articles)....

Building up the back of the hand is for the Uberti 'conversions'.............

The longer 'plunger' I was asking about is outlined in the Pietta Tuning Part 2 DIY.

[Cemetery]

While I was typing that I was thinking to myself, "Now watch them break the very next time I use them!"

Yup.

You jinxed yourself.....next time that buzzer goes off, look out.

[Lefty Dude]

The hardest part I have with the Modification is getting the frame positioned in the Drill press vise for a straight and proper aligned drilled hole.