Brass tacks...

[flatapple]

Anyone here put brass tacks in your 73?  I am thinking about adding tacks.  Could you please post pics of tacked 73's.

[River City John]

Sorry, just my '66.


RCJ

[Oregon Bill]

Apple, if you want to be authentic, seek out some solid brass tacks with square shanks. They are not cheap, but they are the pure quill.

[River City John]

DGW carries solid brass tacks, as does Track of the Wolf.

What's the point having to explain to everyone that your authentic square shanks are buried deep in that reproduction European walnut.  

I would save the cost difference as only the heads are seen. Unless you are going for bragging rights, of course.






RCJ

[ChuckBurrows]

Apple, if you want to be authentic, seek out some solid brass tacks with square shanks. They are not cheap, but they are the pure quill.

Bill - depends on time and place. By the early 1870's steel shank solid brass head tacks had made their appearance. I have an original Potsdam that was cut down for buffalo hunting and the tacks which were put in some time back when (used to have a pic of the gun with an early owner dating from circa 1880 showing the tacks in place.) They come in both high dome and low dome and IMO the more common was the low dome based on examination of a plethora of originals.
The solid brass square shank tacks are available from Londonderry Brasses in various sizes. The down side they are VERY expensive in comparison to the steel shank tacks and they need to be set just right or due to their softness or the head will flatten out (this seems to have been a problem back when since I've seen a bunch of original tacks with lead filling the back of the head.

[Oregon Bill]

Chuck, I thought I remembered one of your posts somewhere saying steel shanks came in sometime after the Civil War. Would sure admire to see an image of your Potsdam buffalo musket so adorned.
John, that is a handsome Yellow Boy!

[River City John]

Thanks Oregon Bill.

flatapple, as you may notice, the tacks on the forearm are kept somewhat more polished than those on the stock by just handling and shooting it. Although all were inserted at the same time, I personally like the look of brass as it develops a patina. The head diameter becomes the spacing gauge when marking where to drill pilot holes for the shanks. Drill a hole of a smaller diameter than the shank diameter so as to not stress or split the wood. And the barrel and magazine tube really only allow full shanks down the middle of the forearm grip.

There is a different design on the other side of the stock, but I have found that, even though the heads are all snug against the wood, I will often (at least once every other match it seems) catch a hair from my beard in the pattern and pull it out. Irritating to say the least. After 16 years, the right side of my beard is noticeably thinned and sparse ahead of the ear on the jaw line. Oh well!
So, if you are "folically" blessed, I would suggest you either leave the cheek side of the stock blank and just border the perimeter outline with a row of tacks, or put your design forward or back from your accustomed cheek resting area. Trust me on this one.

RCJ

[ChuckBurrows]

Chuck, I thought I remembered one of your posts somewhere saying steel shanks came in sometime after the Civil War. Would sure admire to see an image of your Potsdam buffalo musket so adorned.
John, that is a handsome Yellow Boy!

her ya go Bill - just a quickie view


It was built on 1820 as a flintlock and armory adapted to percussion in 1843. A friend of my younger brothers presented it to me years (1973) ago when he found out my passion for old guns. The family story is the gun came west with a family member as part of the Mexican War Missouri Brigade. When the war ended the gent stayed in northern New Mexico and became a trader to the Utes and Jicarillas here in the same area where I now live (I brought it Home!). He married a native (not sure which tribe?) and was more of a pack trader than working out of a post. I also was given the image of the young Indian holding this gun when cut down and tacked, but as noted it got lost over the years. Appearances suggested it was used for running buffalo - both the Utes and Jicarillas made annual visits for buffalo east of the Rockies.
I did use it for several years when living in the PNW and took several deer, a cow elk, and my last ever black bear (375 filed wt) which charge after being wounded and that big ole 11 gauge ball sure stopped him in his tracks about 20 feet in front of me. I retired it not too log after that in consideration of it's age and possible problems. Still it's one of the very few guns I have kept all theses years and still holds a place in my heart.

PS I liked the varied head size tack pattern I've adapted it to almost all the tack work I do to this day. The sizes on the original are 3/8" and 1/4" high dome.

PPS along with pre-drilling (I do a lot with a hand gimlet just to get them started) and using an old cabinet makers trick I clip the sharp point off each tack to help prevent splitting. As for setting them on the steel shank tacks I set them not just flush but digging slightly into the wood. And yes I agree about beards and tacks, but then I never did like the idea of having metal against my cheek so I've never added tacks to that area. Also dependent on weather and usage I tap all of the tacks in at least a couple of times a year if need be.

[Oregon Bill]

Chuck, thank you for sharing the back story on that wonderful old Potsdam.