Barrel Wedge protrusion

Niederlander · November 16, 2015, 02:48:50 PM

Hello! How far is the barrel wedge supposed to stick out beyond the escutcheon? Right now it's about 1/8" and that seems excessive. (By the way, I'm glad I ordered three, so I have one to practice on!) Also, how tight are they supposed to be? Should you be able to push them out by hand, or should you need to tap them out?

Kent Shootwell · November 16, 2015, 03:05:20 PM

I like them to be from .070" to .075" and tight enough that they stay put but can be pushed out by hand or with the help of the ram rod tip. I nearly always slot them and pin threw the stock so they can't be lost.

Niederlander · November 16, 2015, 03:18:05 PM

Thank you! (As you can tell, I'm new to the muzzle loading rifle thing.) I should have the Browning Mountain Rifle up and running very soon!

Blair · November 16, 2015, 03:23:07 PM

Kent,

Good reply.

I like mine to be tight enough to hold the forearm in place with a bit of pressure to help remove them.
The slot in the wedge, held by a small screw, is also a good idea.
My best,
Blair

Niederlander · November 16, 2015, 03:27:38 PM

I plan you install retaining pins beneath the escutcheons. I'll probably make them out of straight pins.

Blair · November 16, 2015, 03:38:58 PM

Small, generally iron, wood screws seem to be the most common.
This way you can remove the screws and disassemble the whole gun for good overall general cleaning.
My best,
Blair

Niederlander · November 16, 2015, 03:49:18 PM

My plan was to trap them under the escutcheons. I figure to make little indentations in the wood to locate them.

Blair · November 16, 2015, 04:03:06 PM

Question?

How do you get the pins out?

The screws come out after the barrel has been removed, and the wedges fallow
Originally, iron (or brass) wood screws were hand made and have to be kept within their proper placement for reassembly
My best,
Blair

Tascosa Joe · November 16, 2015, 04:18:03 PM

The way I have always done it is to bend the wedge slightly with a cold chisel. This worked on a lot of rifles and in all the years I rondeyvoud I never lost a wedge.

Kent Shootwell · November 16, 2015, 04:29:33 PM

Neiderlander, the pins under the escutcheons is a fine way to do it. You have to cut the slot very close to the head and as you have already figured out unscrewing the escutcheon will free the pin if you should need to.

Niederlander · November 17, 2015, 02:08:38 PM

Just about finished fitting the barrel wedges. Just need to elongate the slots for the retaining pins and then brown them. This is a fun project!

Blair · November 17, 2015, 02:24:13 PM

Niederlander,

Sorry, I don't quite get what it is you are doing.
Wedges and pins both?
Please post photos when you can?
My best,
Blair

Niederlander · November 17, 2015, 02:57:15 PM

Yes, both. It was missing one wedge when I got it, and I wanted them to match. Got the replacements from Track of the Wolf.

Blair · November 17, 2015, 03:19:32 PM

Ok, I believe my poor little brain is getting a handle on this.

You are using the pin to get the location on the wedge placement?
Is this correct?
My best,
Blair

Vernon/IN · November 17, 2015, 06:53:23 PM

It sounds like he is using a pin, trapped under the escutcheon plate on the lock side of the stock. The pin will go through a slot in the wedge and keep it from being removed from the stock while allowing it to be moved far enough to release the barrel from the stock.

If I get a chance, I'll see if I can make a drawing in a cad package and post it.

Niederlander · November 17, 2015, 09:34:58 PM

That's exactly it. Thank you!

Forty Rod · November 18, 2015, 09:27:28 AM

Quote from: Tascosa Joe on November 16, 2015, 04:18:03 PM
The way I have always done it is to bend the wedge slightly with a cold chisel. This worked on a lot of rifles and in all the years I rondeyvoud I never lost a wedge.

That works very well. Be sure both wedges fit the same or number them. You'll find that sometimes the front wedge may not fit the same as the rear one and if you get them mixed up you can have problems.

Also, give yourself a small Christmas present: buy a half dozen spares. The worst that can happen is you never need them and when you die your family finds them and wonder, "what did that crazy old fart have all these metal things for".

Blair · November 18, 2015, 01:48:05 PM

Yes, I understand the pin will hold this type of slotted wedge very well.
The use of a screw will become more practical as this build needs to come apart for the final fitting and finishing of stock to parts and pieces.
Perhaps this is why the screw held slotted wedge seems to be the most common method?
My best,
Blair

Gabriel Law · November 20, 2015, 06:23:33 PM

Here's a picture of one of my recent Hawken builds. These slides enter from the left or off side of the stock, as does the lock nail. The tips of the slides protrude about 1/16" - 3/32"...just enough that a bap with a screw driver handle pushes them out enough to get your thumb nail under the head on the other side. These slides pass through the under-lugs of the barrel, and hold the stock to the barrel. The wood of the forestock does the holding -NOT THE ESCUTCHEONS! All the escutcheons are for is to protect the wood around them. This unfortunately, is not the case with most factory made modern production rifles, shotguns and pistols, where it is necessary to bend the slide to create enough friction to hold the slide in place..

I hope this helps.

Here's another example, another Hawken half stocked rifle.

...and here's one on a Pennsylvania longrifle without escutcheon plates. Only enough metal protruding to make withdrawl possible.

pony express · November 20, 2015, 08:10:12 PM

Gabriel, that's some nice work!