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[SimmerinLightning]

Getting one of these in every cylinder. I have not yet tried to determine if it is the same cylinder or nipple each time, that just occurred to me as I type this. I do try to make sure the flash holes are clear. Any other recommendations? So far every one has popped on the second go-round, but I am terrified of a hangfire. Brand new OOB Uberti 1851's, factory nipples, 20-21* grains of Goex FFFg, CCI caps. One gun has I think 30 rounds through it, the other has six.

*I don't have a flask or measure yet, so I fill a .38 spl case which weighs out as 20-21 grains.

[Montana Slim]

I have a fairly new (last fall) pair of the same pistols as yours.

The factory mainsprings are too weak for reliable ignition.
Order a new set (or more) of generic mainsprings that fit all the Colt belt/holster pistols.
I suggest Dixie Gunworks...the ones in my parts bin are 10+ years old, so I'm only assuming the current ones are similar in strength.
http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?products_id=1119

With the new mainsprings (from my old inventory), the Navy Colts have worked extremely well.

See one of my posts about these pistols, scroll down this page:
http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,55678.0.html

Groups fired were with the guns as-received. To date, the only mods are heavier mainsprings, deburring of all sharp edges, and drop-in custom "bent-washers" to take up slack in the arbor/barrel fit.

Slim
I only have 95 97 100 (documented) clean matches in my cowboy career. Vast majority shooting Frontiersman class. I have slowed down a shade over the years, currently shooting stage times of around 40-45 seconds per stage...Someday will all be over, so need to have fun while we can.

[wildman1]

You may need to be more assertive in seating your caps on the nipples. A good test for this is with EMPTY cylinders cap them and try them, if you get clicks seat them a little harder then try it. wM1

[Pettifogger]

When the cap pops on the second go round that means it was not fully seated in the first place.  Use a cap pusher.  Don't worry about the flash holes.  If the gun is shooting the holes are clear.

[SimmerinLightning]

Well two of you said it was a seating issue, I guess I will try seating them better but I really thought I was pushing them on pretty dang hard. I actually turn my head and close my eyes sometimes when I push the caps on.

As far as the springs, I'm always reading how oversprung guns are from the factory. Is that not the case here?

[Blackpowder Burn]

+1 What Pettifogger said.  I've never had any problem with factory springs.

[45 Dragoon]

Some of the new guns have pretty light main springs.
It could be all the "stuff" the hammer has to overcome on its way down.
It has to drag the hand (with the over tensioned spring) down against a rough frame, push an over tensioned bolt arm over so a too high cam can pass by and have enough energy to pop a cap!!
That's if there is no binding with the frame cheeks on either side of the hammer or the top sides of the grip frame that also could be rubbing the hammer.

There's really a lot that can contribute to a failure to "pop a cap"!!

When I lighten a hammer pull to an extreme,  it can't have any of the above problems hinder the ability to fire the weapon.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com

[pony express]

What size are your CCI caps? for my Pietta 1860s, I find that first choice is Rem#10s, second choice would be CCI#11s. CCI#10s are too small for anything I own, and will require more than one hit to drive them down enough to fire.

[Montana Slim]

As far as the springs, I'm always reading how oversprung guns are from the factory. Is that not the case here?

I have ...well a LOT of C&B revolvers and a smattering of cartridge ones, too.
These latest Uberti (1851 Navies) have had THE lightest mainsprings of any in my herd (as from the factory).
I placed the original springs in my parts bin, contemplating where I might use them someday(?)
Maybe put them out on the trade table at my club and label as extra-light competition springs.
Perhaps make a nice profit on them. 

My revolvers were as smooth and crisp as one can hope for out-of-the-box. No drag or clunking. I did spend close to an hour on each to clean up the sharp edges and burrs thogh. I hate getting cut on these things. At the end of the season I'll strip them down for detail cleaning and look for any areas that don't appear to be wearing correctly, and cleanup any nicks, etc. I missed on the first go-round.

Slim

[Coffinmaker]

After working to repair, tune, and just plain set up CAS guns over the last 15 - 20 years, I have yet to encounter a factory Main Spring that was "too light."  The exact opposite has been the case in every case.

As posted by 45Dragoon, there are extenuating circumstances (didn't know I knew those big wurds?).  Drag and interference.  If you look at the sides of the hammer at this point, you may notice scratch and scrape marks from the hammer dragging in the frame and in the hammer channel.  Attention from a fine stone may be called for.

Having the incorrect caps for your particular guns as mentioned by Pony Express can also cause you grief.  If your Jervous and Nerkey about the amount of pressure seating the caps, you've probably got the wrong caps for your guns.  I am also NOT a fan of the OEM nipples.  I change out the nipples on EVERYTHING to SlixShot.  Then I run Remington #10 caps.  Although, just for fun, I'm gonna piddle with a tin of Remington #11s.  See what happens.

As mentioned by 45Dragoon, the amount of energy soaked up by the Trigger/Bolt spring and excess drag in the lockworks can also bring one to tears trying to get a Cap Gun to run.  A set of small Diamond Files can go a long way.

Hopefully, you won't have to "Start from Scratch" setting up your guns.  If you do however, the reward of a nice running Cap Gun is sweet indeed.

Oh, almost forgot, also take a peek at where the Arbor joins the hammer channel.  Look for shiny spots that need to be dressed down for full hammer travel.

Coffinmaker

[SimmerinLightning]

The caps in question are CCI #11's, the only ones I could find in this area. They seem to fit just fine: slide right on without spreading open, but don't fall off either. I'm just not too keen on using more than moderate finger pressure is all.

[Lefty Dude]

Do not use your fingers to seat caps, BIG NO-NO !
We all use a push stick of some sort, and a gentle push to bottom out the cap on the nipple.
Some use a cut-off pencil, with the rubber eraser as the pusher. Me, I use a piece of Deer antler. The point cut off flat and polished.

[Coffinmaker]

Holy Crapola!!  Whoa there Lightning.

DON'T EVEN THINK about seating caps with ...... (gasp) ..... Fingers or Thumb.  We have a fella here at CAS City with a swell photo of his thumb.  Most of one side of the tip is ..... MISSING!!  Caps can make a righteously big BANG.

Push stick of some sort.  You'll also be a lot less Jervious 'n' Nerkey seating your caps.  Please ..... NO APPENDAGES!!!

Coffinmaker

[Professor Marvel]

Thanks Coffinmaker-
here's the lovely foto of Cuts Crooked's left thumb:



"That's a picture of what's left of my thumb after a cap detonated under it while loading my old 58 Remington years ago."

from this thread
http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,1620.0.html

graphical and foto-graphical examples oft' hit home

hope this helps
prof marvel

[SimmerinLightning]

Well geeze, guys, I suppose I misspoke, but at the same time you're both bringing up the exact point I was trying to make in this thread as well as the one about the alleged capper. Right now I'm putting caps on by hand, which I really don't like doing, and seating them with a popsicle stick. I do not want to use a push stick because the popsicle stick allows me to come from the side rather than directly behind the nipple. And I don't REALLY close my head or turn my eyes, but I do have a fair amount of trepidation when capping. I am worried about where the cap and gas will go as well as where the ball is going. I am only guessing that it would come out and hit the edge of the barrel assy and ricochet who knows where.

[SimmerinLightning]

Thanks Coffinmaker-
here's the lovely foto of Cuts Crooked's left thumb:



"That's a picture of what's left of my thumb after a cap detonated under it while loading my old 58 Remington years ago."

from this thread
http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,1620.0.html

graphical and foto-graphical examples oft' hit home

hope this helps
prof marvel

Okay, what the hell is "hammer seating"? That just doesn't even sound right.

[Professor Marvel]

Ah My Good Simmerin -

Fear Not.
We are just "piling on" .
It's what we do
after a while you'll get used to it.  

As long as you are utilizing some sort of stick-like-thumb-saving-device, all will be well.
If the cap should go off whislt you are loading , the ball will by design traverse the length of the revolver harmlessly ,
at a rather low velocity, ( I seem to recall, on the order of 150 or 200 fps? )
hopefully into the dirt at which thou shouldst' have had it pointed there-at.

ah - hammer seating is actually cylcing the cylinder and using the hammer on the pistole'  to GENTLY seat the caps. I do not care for it myself.

and now I must take out the garbage....

yhs
prof ( too much information) marvel

[SimmerinLightning]

ah - hammer seating is actually cylcing the cylinder and using the hammer on the pistole'  to GENTLY seat the caps. I do not care for it myself.

Yeah where I come from they call that "firing".

[Montana Slim]

Thanks Coffinmaker-
here's the lovely foto of Cuts Crooked's left thumb:



"That's a picture of what's left of my thumb after a cap detonated under it while loading my old 58 Remington years ago."

from this thread
http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,1620.0.html

graphical and foto-graphical examples oft' hit home

hope this helps
prof marvel

I'm thinking this is a right thumb..not left....and being a "righty" myself, wondering if a "lefty" would not cap with their right hand similar to the other 90%. Just wondering...what say the lefties.

[SimmerinLightning]

I'm thinking this is a right thumb..not left....and being a "righty" myself, wondering if a "lefty" would not cap with their right hand similar to the other 90%. Just wondering...what say the lefties.

I am left-handed and I cap with my right hand, due to how the gun is made. Loading is a bit of an inconvenience for me because I hold the gun in my right hand and pour powder with my left. Seating the ball is almost comical because I keep shifting the gun from right to left and back. I will develop a system at some point.

I tend to believe that the average left-handed person is more ambidextrous than the average right-hander, out of necessity. You might be surprised, as a right-handed person, just how many everyday items are "hand biased" but which might not jump out at you. Lawn mowers, for instance. Pretty much have to pull the rope with your right hand. Every vending machine I have ever seen has the coin/dollar/return slots on the right side. Even pens and pencils, believe it or not. Hold a pencil in your left hand, and the logo or printing on it will be upside down.