Where to get hand for 60 RM?

[will52100]

Hand spring broke on my 60 RM, and also broke the tab that holds it in place on the back of the hand.  I tried converting to plunger type coil spring, but that didn't work.  There was drag about midway through the cycle, only thing I can figure is I got a few though out on the hole or the plunger is binding on the back of the swamped curve on the hand.

I've looked high and low and haven't found anybody that's got a replacement hand and spring.  I guess I could machine a new one, but I'm up to my ears in projects as it is.  Or is there a trick to installing the coil spring and plunger I'm missing?

Thanks

[Lefty Dude]

De-burr the plunger frame hole on the hand channel side. Or you have a Burr in the hole at the bottom. I have done several of the hand plunger mods to my 51's & 60's. The RM is very close to the C&B pieces.
Also you must smooth the back side of the hand where the plunger rides. If there is any burr or divit on the plunger back you will feel this in the hammer as you go to battery.
If you have the hole in the frame for the plunger, I doubt that an original hand spring will ride properly in the hand slot because of the plunger hole.
The plunger is your best course of action.

[Coffinmaker]

Suggest you hop on over to "The Open Range."  It's still there with it's reverence library.  The exteemed Larsen E. Pettifogger did the best tutorial I've ever seen on the Plunger and Spring modification.

The OEM Hand and spring will run right over the hole you drilled, so long as you have de-burred the hole.  You may get some funny wear in the slot and on the hand spring.

Coffinmaker

PS:  Forgot.  Original Question:  RM Hand, Taylor's, Cimarron, VTI replica gunparts and perhaps Brownells.

[will52100]

Thanks, I deburred the hole on the inside of the hand channel, and it looks like an OEM hand and spring would be OK.  It's been a while since I tinkered with it so I might give it a go.  I think the issue is the wasp waist, or S curve of the OEM hand back.  Without the cylinder it it looks and feels like it works fine, with the cylinder in it binds up about half way through earing the hammer back.  I may see if I can grind a continuous curve on the back of the hand and see if that makes the difference.  Or it might be I need to lighten the spring up a bit.

In any even I'm ready to get it back in service.

[will52100]

OH, I tried all the usual places to get a hand and spring for some time and there all listed as being out.

Anybody have a link to the articles on converting to coil spring and part numbers to order?  I'm on the water rite now and it's a PITA to order online with very limited bandwidth.

Thanks

[Abilene]

OH, I tried all the usual places to get a hand and spring for some time and there all listed as being out.

Anybody have a link to the articles on converting to coil spring and part numbers to order?  I'm on the water rite now and it's a PITA to order online with very limited bandwidth.

Thanks

Tried Cimarron and Taylors for the hand?

Here's Pettifogger's articles: http://www.theopenrange.net/forum/index.php?topic=7988

It is in four parts.  Part 2 covers the hand spring conversion.  Here is some text from the article regarding part numbers:

"Take the frame out of the vise and insert a standard Ruger plunger and spring.

(Brownell's part numbers 780-012-104 or 780-012-105. Midway also carries Ruger parts
although it will have a different part number.) This plunger and spring is found in virtually all
Ruger single actions. If it drags in the frame at all, take the number 35 drill between your fingers
and spin it back and forth while moving it in and out of the hole."

[will52100]

Thanks.  I'll see about ordering.  I know I've got the parts somewhere at home, but where?  I've got tons of parts and pieces for guns going back 20 years or more and it's a PITA to keep up with and find small parts.