SAA clone jams when/whist firing

[Coffinmaker]

Why??  If the OP is less than skilled, and cannot resolve the problem, why drag out the Q & A process to no resolution.  Tiz time for a visit
to the Smithy.  You know, one of those people with the knowledge, tools and skills to fix it.

Coffinmaker

PS:  Two pages of SWAGs, the problem isn't resolve and none of us can fix it over the wire.  Pointless to drag out the inevitable.

[Blair]

Perhaps, a request for photos earlier in this thread would not have required "Two pages SWAGs" Without a solution to the OP's original question.
How does that do for "why??"
My best,
Blair

[Coffinmaker]

Nah.  This one is still gonna take a trip to the Smithy.  Lil late me thinks, at this point.  Of course, our continued speculation does give us something to do.

Coffinmaker

[llanerosolitario]

I would check gap between cylinder and barrel forcing cone. If it is too tigth, the gun will jam when firing as the cylinder will suffer a small dillatation form heat. It should have at least 0,1mm of gap or it wont work properly.
 
printing paper is about 0,1mm and should run free between cylinder and cone when the hammer is atfull cock and loaded with empty cases..

It is easy to solve with a fine file with some touches in the forcing cone just keeping it well flat over it and wont affect accuracy.

It is the way they do the final fitting sometimes in the factory.

In my experiencie 0.15 mm works well.

[russ1943]

Was this problem ever resolved.  I had Navy Arms Uberti 1875 Remington that backed out the primers in 2 out of six cylinders,  right out of the box.  The normal fix is replacement recoil shield, but the Uberti  doesn't have one.  I had to send it back to Navy Arms, and they finally replaced it, with a EMF 1875.  As I remember I thought the Frame was off, base pin holes were off, since 2 chambers in the cylinder were not the same after removing the cylinder and putting it back in order to clear the jam. Navy Arms never explained what was wrong, even after three inquiries.

Please post the result

Thanks

[Fox Creek Kid]

Was this problem ever resolved.  I had Navy Arms Uberti 1875 Remington that backed out the primers in 2 out of six cylinders,  right out of the box.  The normal fix is replacement recoil shield, but the Uberti  doesn't have one...

No it's not. The "normal" is to ask about the ammo. Light loads? As well measure & examine the FP. Then I would look at the chambers and indicate them to see if only two chambers were causing this or is it happening at random in all chambers, i.e., ammo of FP related.

[August]

My experience with eyetalian guns is that the cylinder bushing often does not protrude far enough forward to ensure a proper cylinder gap once the gun is put into action.  As rounds are fired, and the primers back out, the cylinder is gradually forced forward.  If the cylinder bushing is not properly fitted, the front of the cylinder contacts the back of the barrel and the gun binds up in just the way you are describing.  The solution is to properly shim the cylinder bushing so that proper cylinder gap is maintained while firing.  Bushing shims are available from: http://michigancenteroutdoors.com/cylinder_shims.html#S9  Strongly suggest you get the multipack as there is wide variation is the slop on these guns.  One of my pistols required a .002 shim to operate consistently and one required a .004 shim in order to work.  Buy the variety pack.

You can confirm the problem by using a feeler gauge to measure the cylinder gap while you push the cylinder forward as far as you can.  You'll probably find there is zero gap when the cylinder is pushed forward in this way.  This won't give you any information about the proper shim size, however.  Once you've confirmed that the cylinder is, in fact, "bottoming out" on the barrel, you can hold the cylinder forward and try to gauge the remaining gap between the bushing and the frame.  It is tough to do this.  Trial and error with various shim thicknesses was required for me to arrive at an harmonious solution.  That's where the variety pack comes in.

Alternatively, if the pawl is not properly retracting after each cycle, it will begin to drag on the ratchet.  Be sure the channel the pawl runs in is perfectly clean (gun must be disassembled for this) and that there is sufficient clearance between the pawl and the three walls of the channel that it runs in.

My money, however, is on problem one -- given my experience with these guns.

[Abilene]

Well it has been over a year since the OP started this thread, and these are his only posts on Cascity.  I guess we'll never find out what exactly was wrong with his gun.