Disassembly problem

[SimmerinLightning]

I have these two brand-new Uberti 1851's, and I am trying to take them apart to clean all the oil off, but I cannot get the wedges out. To my recollection, the one I had years ago popped out with (a great deal of) finger pressure. I can get these to move, but once they are about halfway out they bind up. It seems to me that once the wedge moves that first fraction of an inch it should loosen to the point that one can pull it out with thumb and finger, no? They won't tap out and I didn't want to pound on them too hard without asking some questions first.

I also found a video wherein the speaker removes the wedge screw first thing. That should not be necessary. The screw only serves to retain the loose wedge in the barrel, correct?

[Pettifogger]

When C&B's are new a LOT of them require a good deal of effort to get the wedges out.  After you have shot a few hundred rounds they will loosen up.  Yes, you "should" not need to remove the wedge screw.  However, sometimes sharp new edges make things hard.  I have a very lightweight plastic hammer that I use to tap on wedges until they loosen up enough to be pushed out by hand.  I have also had to use a pieced of brass that will fit into the wedge slot in the barrel to help tap out sticky wedges.  Again, shoot them a few hundred rounds and they will loosen up and then the wedge will be loose until you go in and correct an almost universal problem with Ubertis - improper barrel to arbor fit.  In almost all cases the arbor on Ubertis is to short.

[Coffinmaker]

Or the hole in the barrel lug for the arbor is too deep.  

But ..... Plus 2 to Pettifogger's post.  Uberti's Cap Guns are notoriously poorly fit.  You should not have to remove the wedge retention screw ...... but you do when new.  The screw is dragging on the very rough upper surface of the wedge spring that is some too heavy anyway.

Coffinmaker

[SimmerinLightning]

Okay then, I'll just pound them out with the ol' crescent hammer. Thanks for the information.

I'm going to have to do some research on the arbor fit issue. I have seen it referenced before but don't really understand the issue.

[Pettifogger]

http://www.theopenrange.net/forum/index.php?topic=7988.0

[rifle]

Piettas have a sharp angle (90 degrees) ton the end of the spring and that catches and stops the wedge from comin out. The end of then spring will make a broached ramp on the edge of the barrel top slot fer itself to get out. Makes a lil ramp on the edge of the top barrel slot.

Uberti usually has a more compatible angle to the end of the wedge spring so the spring lowers itself to get in the barrel slot so it's coming out. Maybe the end of the wedges in these Uberti's have the 90 degree end to the spring and it holds but......  in either case Uberti or Pietta pressing down on the spring tip while tapping the wedge out lets it come out. Then file an angle to the spring tip so it comes out easier.

I'd bet.....the barrel slots and arbor slots aren't flush and there's a shelf in there that the wedge spring is catchin on.

On the right side of the barrel it would be an arbor slot edge that's lower then the barrel slot there catching the spring. On the left side it would be a barrel slot edge lower then the arbor slot edge there catchin the spring.

Or the spring has the up turned end to it that's too high and there is just no room for the spring to lower to get out of the way of the slot edges so the wedge can get out.


Take something ,when the wedge is all the way in, and press down on the spring edge to see if it can clear the barrel slot edge. That's if the spring is out of the slots on the right side. If it ain't and the wedge won't come out it must be hangin up on a slot edge of the barrel or the arbor because they aren't flush.

The problem could be the screw really draggin on the wedge/spring like was mentioned.

If the wedge spring is the problem and the wedge just will not come out then use a lil pin punch or something lil and kick the pin that holds the spring in the wedge "out".That way the wedge comes out without the spring needin to come with it. The gun would need supported the right way and you might need three hands to get the pin that holds the spring out while the wedge is in the gun.

Careful use of a drill press can drill the pin out of the wedge that holds the spring.

Sometimes the ill fit of the spring in that slot in the wedge means the spring can't lower to let the wedge out. If the spring is sticking out of the gun on the right side sometimes carefully sticking the end of the wedge in the vise and squeezin the spring tip down in the wedge slot will keep the spring in so the wedge comes out. Look to see that there isn't some thing in the little space under the wedge spring first off.

Sometimes you'd swear it was not possible to get a wedge like that in in the first place but....weird things happen.

I have at times had to use a steel drift punch and a little steel hammer to get steel to steel to whack a danged wedge out even if it would break the spring. Careful to not whack marks on the new gun makes fer some anxiety.

[Jubal Starbuck]

   I have used  half of a clip clothespin and a light mallet to tap tight wedges out.  They are sized about right, they don't mar the bluing and they are reasonably cheap.

[rickk]

A few taps with the back of a heavy plastic handled screwdriver should get it moving without fear of denting metal.

[AKexpat]

I am a noob when it comes to any model C&B revolver, but I have been reading all the info I can find about them, replica Colt 1851 guns in particular.

In December I bought a Pietta 1851 Navy steel .36 from Cabela's on sale. [I have since bought a nicer looking grip off EBay (although it is a reddish-brown stained piece of white hardwood) as the original European walnut grip was rather straight-grain plain wood.]

When I received the pistol, all metal finishes were excellent, but the wedge did not protrude at the right side of the frame at all. After conferring with Mike  http://www.goonsgunworks.com/  via forum/email/phone, and I was satisfied judiciously sand both side edges of the wedge and the barrel lug now allows the wedge to protrude on the right side to about 1/32" to include the tip of the wedge spring, which is still pretty darned tight. As I have not shot the pistol, I will go no further than that modification and have cold-blued the wedge/spring until then (Birchwood Casey paste blue works well).

The folks that have suggested using a small plastic mallet, a wood clothespin, or small wood dowel are right on. Common knowledge that I have learned is that the wedge/arbor slot tolerances will increase with the number of firings.

rifle is pretty much spot on, IMO.

Jim