I'm Super excited!

[Pitspitr]

Yeah, the trigger pull might be about as heavy as your NS  

I forgot to mention the holster.

It's probably designed for the New Service.  I think it's too old to have been for the 1917. The K-frame is plenty loose in it. The holster has been "modified". The belt loop was cut just above the original rivets then riveted back tpgether and the brass "button" on the toe plug that the thong goes on was cut off almost flush with a hack saw. The leather is healthy though and I don't see any loose stitching.

[Pitspitr]

Sounds good Colonel-I haven't found one of those worth buying for the right money yet!

Yeah, it definitely isn't a collectable one, but this way I'm not afraid to shoot it and it was in my price range. I usually can't afford guns as nice as nice as the ones you typically buy. I'm a happy camper today for sure! 

Your turn of the century Smith & Wesson shoots the Colt .38-

My turn of the century Colt shoots the Smith & Wesson .38!

Ironic, ain't it? 

[Delmonico]

Was told an idea to try when looking at an old gun to buy:

"And how much for it with out the story?" 

[Charles Isaac]

I was told the leaf trigger rebound spring had something to do with the heavy pull on those.


Ned Niederlander's M1902 S&W  had an unbelievably smooth action-what if that M1899 ends up the same way!? Sure would help a whole lot when you start wheelin' that mother!

[Pitspitr]

Ned Niederlander's M1902 S&W  had an unbelievably smooth action

The nickel plated one? I own it now and yes it was one of the ones I was comparing it to. My new 1899 is really smooth, it's just also really heavy.

[Pitspitr]

Was told an idea to try when looking at an old gun to buy:
"And how much for it with out the story?" 

Actually, in this case the dealer had the story wrong and it saved me some money. He said that the serial numbers didn't match. According to S&W's forum one number he thought was a serial number was actually a production number and meant nothing after leaving the factory. In other words it wasn't a serial number and therefore the only serial number it has IS correct.

CORRECTION: There are 3 serial numbers and they all match!

[pony express]

So what's the verdict on the bore size? .375, .358, or something in between? Cylinder bored straight through, or with a "shoulder" ?

[Pitspitr]

The cylinder has a shoulder. 38 special won't fit. I haven't had time to slug the bore yet. I got it cleaned. The bore and the cylinder do have pits. Doesn't look like I'm going to have a chance to shoot it this weekend.

[pony express]

Having a shoulder should mean that it's not a .375 bore then, normal .358 bullets should work. You just won't be able to crimp the shorter cases with the dies you have.

[Pitspitr]

Yea!!

I don't have a mic but my dial calipers say it slugs out a .357

[Delmonico]

Accurate enough, you got lucky.

[pony express]

Great! then all you have to do is load some "short" .38 special! If your crimp die is already screwed in, do you have a 9mm die? You could crimp with that. Or as Bat suggested, machine a bit off the bottom of the one you have already. Another possibility, if you can seat the bullet without belling the case mouth too much, maybe just don't crimp them.

[Niederlander]

How close is the .38 S & W?  If it's close, maybe just get a seater die for that.  Lee sells such things separately.  I've got .38 S & W dies if you want to try it.

[Pitspitr]

Its way closer to 38 special. Slightly bigger around and slightly shorter

[Drydock]

Ah, just get a set of these and be done with it.  (Or call Lee and just order the crimp die)

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/123113/lee-carbide-3-die-set-38-short-colt-38-long-colt?cm_vc=ProductFinding

[Niederlander]

That was my next suggestion.  It's usually easier to just get the proper dies.

[pony express]

The .38S&W seater die would work fine, there's only something like ten thousandths difference between that and .38sp. Close enough that, depending on tolerances, sometimes you can use .38 S&W brass in one. I used .38S&W in my 1892, until I got some actual LC brass. Woudn't fit in most of my other .38SP guns, though. As for substituting other caliber dies, I think one of the dies that came in my .38S&W set(lee) is marked ".38 auto" I guess Lee thought they were close enough!

[Pitspitr]

Ah, just get a set of these and be done with it.  (Or call Lee and just order the crimp die)

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/123113/lee-carbide-3-die-set-38-short-colt-38-long-colt?cm_vc=ProductFinding

Yeah thats what im thinking too. Just haven't had a chance yet. I've bought 250rounds   and 500 brass so as,soon as i can get the dies(and the time) ill start reloading. I shouldn't have to change the shell plate or the powder measure and with the lock and load bushings i should be able to change from special to long colt in minutes.

[pony express]

Depending on what you load in the specials, you might need to reduce the charge a bit for the smaller case.

[Pitspitr]

I'll use a trailbosss load that works for the 38LC in both it and the 38 special.