Model P Cimarrons (MP537) - cylinder bushings frozen?

[MikeChandler]

I picked up a pair of used Model P Cimarrons, they have the cat 537 written on the box... they were a deal (I thought) at 700 for the pair from the used gun room of cabelas. Unfortunately they would not let me remove the base pins at the store. They did come with 45ACP conversion cylinders (that model comes with 45LC/45ACP cylinders).

Taking them home, and pulling the pins, I think they are the filthiest guns I've ever seen. In any case the bushings cannot come out of any of the cylinders on either gun.

So are they frozen, or does this gun NOT have a removable bushing? It sure looks like a separate bushing under the magnifying glass - I can see the line right around it, and it's reverse tapered at the top (base pin end).

If it's indeed a removable is there a safe way to get them out?

Thanks!

[Abilene]

On many new Ubertis the bushing is really tight.  I don't know what the proper gunsmith method would be, but one dealer I worked for had a wooden block with a hole in it for the bushing to move into.  The cylinder would be put face down on this block and a proper sized brass punch was used to knock the bushing forward from the rear.

[MikeChandler]

Good plan, I'll find some brass rod the right diameter and try giving it a (soft) whack. I read somewhere that spraying cold air can shrink the bushing and help.

These are the old model P revolvers.

[Bibbyman]

My Uberti Cattleman were like that when new.  I bumped them out using a method similar as stated above.  I did some light stoning until they slid in and out.  After firing another 100 rounds, they stuck again and again I did some stoning until they slid in and out.   They have broken in or I've stoned enough that they no longer stick.

[MikeChandler]

One down three to go. That did the trick, thanks.

[MikeChandler]

My Uberti Cattleman were like that when new.  I bumped them out using a method similar as stated above.  I did some light stoning until they slid in and out.  After firing another 100 rounds, they stuck again and again I did some stoning until they slid in and out.   They have broken in or I've stoned enough that they no longer stick.

Do you think polishing them up with a dremel might work? I don't know how to stone round objects.

[Bibbyman]

Do you think polishing them up with a dremel might work? I don't know how to stone round objects.

I just used an Arkansas stone and twirled the sharp edge of the back end of the bushing to knock of the sharp edge that I felt was the cause.  I held the bushing at some 45º angle and stoked it across the stone while turning it.  Not enough metal is removed to notice.  Just take enough light strokes until you've gone all the way around and try it.  If it slides in and out easily,  your done.  If it's better,  repeat step one and try again. .  If it's just as bad, then you may have to try something else.

It's not clear to me what causes this to happen.  But it seems to happen with new Ubirti single actions.   Maybe the cylinder moving (ever so slightly) under recoil peens the back end of the bushing against the ratchet part of the cylinder?   Once the bushing length matches the bore depth,  it stops peening.  That's my guess.

[Coffinmaker]

You need to stop by an auto parts store or a store that sells auto body work supplies or Wally World.  Pick up some 600 and 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper.  Cut the sand paper into strips about 1 inch wide.  Chuck up the fat end of the bushing in a 1/2 inch drill motor  wrap some 600 around the offending part of the bushing and run the drill at moderate speed.  Finish with 1000 grit or even 2000 grit.  Be careful not to remove too much metal.
The bushing should slide into the cylinder without binding.  I suggest you lube the bushing with a non petroleum base lube.  My personal preference is Mobil 1.  Great lube and plays well with BP and Subs.

Coffinmaker