New 73

[mustanggt]

I decided to get a 73 in 44spc. to match my revolvers. I love my 92 in WCF. Accurate and fun to shoot plus being an original almost 100 years old I should take it easy on her. I called Buffalo Arms a few weeks ago to put myself on the list to get one whenever Cimarron came out with them again. Lo and behold they got me the last one at Cimarron. I picked it up today and really like the case colors. I had hoped they looked nice as I've seen some of them look pretty plain before. Bluing is nice also. The action is quite a bit slicker than I thought it would be. I have a 94 Marlin that's rougher than a cob so I'm happy with that as well. Here's the but... the wood is as plain and grainless as I've ever seen. It almost looks like plastic. It's so plain the forearm has more figure in it than the buttstock. However it won't hurt when I eventually ding and dent it along the way. I will put some nicer wood on it sometime in the future as I am learning how to checker and fit stocks and forearms. Once I've worked my way through all the old practice stocks I have I will tackle this. Next stop will be the range. I know it didn't happen without pictures but my battery needs charging so they will have to wait.

[Coal Creek Griff]

PICTURES! !

[mustanggt]

Ok here is my first attempt at posting pictures on this site.

[Abilene]

Good old 44 Special (mine is a '66).

You said the wood was very plain.  A little hard to tell from the photos but looks kinda like some figuring under the poly finish.  I bet if you strip that and give it an oil finish it will look nice.

Enjoy!

[mustanggt]

I have an Uberti Open Top that I stripped or should I say tried to strip. I started a thread in the gunsmithing section noting my frustration with that poly crap http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,52290.0.html. I needed to stop the stripping of the finish and remount the grips so I could go to my first match. In the process I managed to chip out a corner of the grips which really put me in a dandy mood. But I said what the hell they look like they have been well used so they look more "authentic" to me. So I really hesitate to try that here. I've never understood the red tint or the poly stuff. Sorry for the burr under my saddle about the finish but if you're intent is to build a replica of one of the most iconic firearms in our history why put red poly on it? I'm sure that has been discussed here to death so I'll end it now. Thanks for listening.

[Coal Creek Griff]

That is a fine looking rifle. Thanks for the pictures!

CC Griff

[mustanggt]

Coal, Thank you. I do like it a lot. I'm sure it will work as well as it has worked for everyone else out there. Red Poly should be my alias after all my whining about it. 

[Major 2]

Mines in 44 Spcl , I like that round

I have a Rocky Mountain front sight on my 20" Barrel, great pointability & sight picture.

[Mean Bob Mean]

Sweet rifle bud!  Figure or no, they look terrific. 

[mustanggt]

Thanks for the compliments. There is no doubt the 1873 is a very classic rifle. I'm glad to have it despite my crankiness over the wood.

[Blair]

mustanggt,

The finish "most" of the Italians use is a hard oil. It's historical counter part is Boiled Linseed Oil.
However, it is somewhat thicker and the wood is dipped instead of being hand rubbed like the originals.
This causes the finish to be quite thick looking. More like a Poly/Epoxy like coating.

I have found this thick Poly like coating is rather easily removed with an Oven Cleaner like "Easy OFF".
I have had great success with removing this type of finish on full length Civil War type Muskets and Rifle Muskets stock wood that were made in Italy.
My best,
Blair

[mustanggt]

Do you rinse with water afterwards? Anything else special you do?

[Blair]

Yes. Wash with hot tap water and let dry.

I also use a cheap acid brush to work in the oven cleaner and to help remove it during the washing.
My best,
Blair

[Mean Bob Mean]

Blair, do you put some beeswax in linseed oil to refinish the wood? 

[Blair]

I steel wool the wood, after it is dry, with 0000 to smooth the wood.

I like to apply a coat or two of Boiled linseed oil mixed about half and half with Turpentine to the dry wood.
I then use a product call French Red. It is a grain filler and Brownell carries it.
This is a boiled linseed oil based product that is quite think when mixed properly.
Apply with the grain of the wood, let stand for a short while (Do Not Allow to Dry), then wipe off the excess against the grain of the wood.
This adds color to the wood, fills the grain and helps seal the wood. Let this dry for about 24 hours and add Boiled linseed oil as a finish coat.

To help water proof the stock, I make up a mixture is bees wax, Boiled linseed oil and turpentine. Melt these together, at room temp it should be like a paste wax. Wipe this on the stock as needed with a clean cloth and let dry.

I am including a photo of an 1866 type II Winchester I did using the method.
My best,
Blair

[Blair]

For those that maybe interested, I have photos that I can provide of customized Italian repro's as well Custom built CW firearms I have built.
The method I used is the same, except for the Custom built guns, they don't require being striped of their finish before construction.
Just let me know if you would like me to Provide this info.
My best,
Blair

[mustanggt]

I would be interested Blair. Thank you.

[Blair]

Image # 2,
This is a "used" M-1861 Springfield, Army Sport I bought. I could see it had some very nice grain in the wood under the thick Italian finish.
Army Sport seems to use some poly in their finish. It took two sessions with the "oven cleaner" to remove all of the old finish.You may be able to see the results of the complete stock re-work  with this after the job re-work.


Image # 1,
Is of a custom built Model 1855 Rifle type I, (brass mounted Rifle).
This did not require the stock to be striped with "oven cleaner". This stock was built up from scratch, however, it was finished using the method I described.
My best,
Blair  

[mustanggt]

Got to the range today run a few rounds through it. I shot some Trail Boss loads through it and they were ok. Like shooting a 22rf. I then loaded some 2F Goex and 3F KIK loads through it and that was a lot of fun. They were more accurate too. I've loaded black powder for two Sharps rifles I have for several years but this is the first for revolvers and lever guns. I might leave the smokeless to my other guns and stick to the black for this.