Uberti 1875 ejector rods keep bending/breaking

Wagon Box Willy · May 11, 2014, 10:11:12 PM

Hody folks.

The ejector rods on my 1875 last only a couple of matches before they either bend and bind at the nut or break right off. Even though I now push them axially with the rod and not grabbing the nut (finger tab) the bend and seize after about two matches. When I straighten the nut back square with the rod the tenon which is pressed into the nut of course has lost any strength it had and will bend in short order. I even had one just drop on a table after I fired a round a couple of weeks ago.

Once they break I file a new tenon on the end of the rod and press it into the nut....really sucks as this is the highest failure item on the pistol....and it costs like 25 bucks from VTI

So I guess I'm asking if anyone else uses 1875's as their main match pistols and if they have the same issue with the ejectors. I shoot BP so there is more force required to eject the spent case than with smokeless I would guess.

King Medallion · May 12, 2014, 07:56:40 AM

I use 75's as my main guns for a couple years now and have had zero issues of any kind.

MJN77 · May 12, 2014, 08:20:14 AM

I've been shooting 1875 and 1890 Remington replicas with BP for almost twenty years and I don't even know how you could even bend the ejector rod on one.

Wagon Box Willy · May 12, 2014, 08:24:40 AM

Maybe I wasn't clear. It's the little 3/16" diameter tendon that bends, misalignment the nut and causing the rod to bind on the cylinder pin. Maybe the steel on the older guns was better.

But I assure you it happens to me all the time.

Forty Rod · May 12, 2014, 09:38:01 AM

I bought a matched pair of 75s in nickel plate back in 1975, and one had similar problem. I was working part time at The Flintlock In Hobby City in Anaheim, and the owner, Ray taylor, and I workd on that gun for over a year without any success.

I finally solved the problem by selling the guns to my Sergeant Major for his two sons and he had someone make him a whole new one out of stainless steel.

Looked funny, but worked very well.

Sevral subsequent guns (all blued) have not had any problem.

Wagon Box Willy · May 12, 2014, 11:05:45 AM

My guns are blued bought new from EMF around 2011.

I buy the replacements from VTI and often they need to be squared prior to installation...which probably weakens them.

Maybe next time I fix one I'll heat treat it to make it resistant to bending. I know that will make it brittle but that may be better.

I'm going to look around for some SS rod that I may be able to use.

Pettifogger · May 12, 2014, 11:06:52 AM

Quote from: Wagon Box Willy on May 12, 2014, 08:24:40 AM
Maybe I wasn't clear. It's the little 3/16" diameter tendon that bends, misalignment the nut and causing the rod to bind on the cylinder pin. Maybe the steel on the older guns was better.

But I assure you it happens to me all the time.

This is when a photo is useful to make sure everyone knows what you are talking about.

Wagon Box Willy · May 12, 2014, 11:37:02 AM

I'm on a plane so no gun handy

Item 164. The rod is pressed into the nut using a 3/16" tenon. Very weak if you use soft Uberti to steel.

http://www.vtigunparts.com/store/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=26&cat=Uberti+1875+Outlaw+and+1890+Police

St8LineLeatherSmith · May 12, 2014, 08:35:04 PM

I have big gorilla mitts and never had any problems with either of my Uberti 1875 clones I have the 5" barrel models.
apparently the tube is some way causing the block to bind up enough for you to apply enough force to bend the part.

Old Top · May 14, 2014, 12:11:33 AM

Hello All,

The ejector rod on the Remington is part of the sail on the pistol, it is a rod of mild steel that has been mill to be half round where it enters the cylinder to eject the spent round. It must be lined up exactly with the cylinder opening or it will hit the cylinder and bend a better piece of steel may be the answer.

Old Top

Wagon Box Willy · May 14, 2014, 05:18:18 PM

I emailed EMF and they were of no help other that to confuse the situation more and state that the 45 Colt rod is not ground on the end where it enters the frame, only the .357 versions are. Of course they sold thee guns in 45 colt with rods that are ground so that makes no sense and also VTI only has the ground ones.

I am going to write Uberti Italy and see what they have to say as well as look for some better steel rodto use for the next time it breaks. I also need to look on my reciept from EMF when I get home and see what their warranty is....I wouldnt consider the rod a wear item.

Pettifogger · May 15, 2014, 12:36:31 PM

Not sure on the Remingtons, but several of the Colt style guns use round rods for the .45 and ground rods for the .38. Simple reason, the hole on a .38 is smaller. A .45 Uberti could easily have ground rods because they ran out of the round ones. The ground rod will work in a .45, but the round one won't work in a .38. It would still be useful to have a few CLEAR photos as I am having a hard time visualizing the problem and the diagram on the VTI site is not very sharp.

Wagon Box Willy · May 15, 2014, 01:55:01 PM

Pettifogger, how's this (see attached)

St8LineLeatherSmith · May 15, 2014, 03:37:08 PM

Quote from: Pettifogger on May 15, 2014, 12:36:31 PM
Not sure on the Remingtons, but several of the Colt style guns use round rods for the .45 and ground rods for the .38. Simple reason, the hole on a .38 is smaller. A .45 Uberti could easily have ground rods because they ran out of the round ones. The ground rod will work in a .45, but the round one won't work in a .38. It would still be useful to have a few CLEAR photos as I am having a hard time visualizing the problem and the diagram on the VTI site is not very sharp.

that may very well be the case because I was loking at a 44-40 at a pawn shop that had a ground rod and both of mine have solid ejector rods

Pettifogger · May 15, 2014, 05:51:38 PM

Quote from: Wagon Box Willy on May 15, 2014, 01:55:01 PM
Pettifogger, how's this (see attached)

If it were mine and I was having that problem, I'd get a piece of drill rod, turn it so it had a small shoulder, drill out the hole in the plunger lever to match the rod and use Hi-Force 44 to solder it on.

Wagon Box Willy · May 15, 2014, 08:05:05 PM

I've considered that. The only issue is that I'd have to replicate the dimensions because there's not enough material to make the hole bigger. I do still think better material for the rod is the answer.

Wagon Box Willy · May 17, 2014, 03:09:56 PM

I got a piece of O1 drill rod and some solder coming.

Dusty Earl · May 18, 2014, 05:37:55 PM

I broke mine trying to stop it from binding. It seems that it binds on the cylinder pin about half way down.

Wagon Box Willy · May 18, 2014, 07:17:37 PM

Quote from: Dusty Earl on May 18, 2014, 05:37:55 PM
I broke mine trying to stop it from binding. It seems that it binds on the cylinder pin about half way down.

Yup. that's the symptom. I'm usually able to square up the nut so that it stops binding but doing so weakens the connection and it doesn't last much longer after that.

Gabriel Law · May 18, 2014, 11:41:42 PM

I just went to the lock-up and checked mine. the ejector rod runs very smoothly all the way to the bottom of the spring. I suspect you might be having a problem at the hole through the guide in the right side of the frame, through which the ejector rod travels. On my revolver, there is lots of clearance...maybe yours needs opening up a titch. I have removed cartridges that were jammed in the cylinder, by placing the button you describe against a bench or a tree and bashing on the butt, without damaging the rod or the button. I'm happy to be past that part of my reloading learning curve.