Loading Data for the 50/95WCF

Started by Grizzly Adams, May 09, 2014, 06:24:29 PM

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ndnchf

I feel your frustration. I ordered reloadable 32 rimfire cases over 2 weeks ago for another project. They are still sitting in a USPS distribution center. Grrr..
"We're all travelers in this world.  From the sweet grass to the packing house, birth till death, we travel between the eternities"  Prentiss Ritter, Broken Trail

King Medallion

I'm re re re re re-reading the thread again, I'm seeing the alloy used is 20:1. I'm adding that to my things to get. Shopping around I see that there are bars of this pre mixed/made. Is that how you guy buy your lead? Seems like the easy way to go for a beginner like me.
King Medallion
I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken.

ndnchf

 I've bought pre-alloyed lead when I see it at a good price. But more often, I mix my own. 30 minutes ago I finished a 30-1 alloy casting session using an antique .38 S&W mold and a Rapine 515350.  This batch was made from 6lbs of WW, 6lbs pure lead and 6.2oz of tin. That comes out to about 30-1. Ive seen no real difference between 20-1 and 30-1 in my rifle.
"We're all travelers in this world.  From the sweet grass to the packing house, birth till death, we travel between the eternities"  Prentiss Ritter, Broken Trail

King Medallion

Another 1st for me today. I slugged the bore of my new Presidio .50/95, and it measures .513. I used a fishing sinker bought specifically for this job. Funny how the first hunk of lead through the bore is going the wrong way!  ;D
King Medallion
I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken.

ndnchf

Mine is .5137", pretty close. I use .514 or. 515 bullets. Both work equally well.
"We're all travelers in this world.  From the sweet grass to the packing house, birth till death, we travel between the eternities"  Prentiss Ritter, Broken Trail

King Medallion

Dies arrived today! Time to make some bowwits!
King Medallion
I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken.

ndnchf

"We're all travelers in this world.  From the sweet grass to the packing house, birth till death, we travel between the eternities"  Prentiss Ritter, Broken Trail

Joey

Please forgive my ignorance. And also it's great to be a part of this great page and to be amongst all the vast knowledge here. So I am extremely new at reloading 50-95 express. So new that I have not done it yet . I have reloaded 45 colt and 45 ACP for about a year and love it. Anyhow back to the subject. I found some 50 Alaska brass at Wild West Guns (store) in Alaska, I bought that and a set of 50 Alaskan 3 die set made by hornady. Got an RCBS case trimmer bought the appropriate shell holder. Found some 50 caliber cast bullets 450 grain, diameter is .512. I'm trying to figure out what the case length of the 50 Alaskan brass needs to be? I have a 28 inch barrel Stoger 1876 made in 2019. Tried to call Uberti and couldn't get anyone. Called Cimmaron and they told me the bore diameter of the rifle is .507 from the bottom of the grooves.  So would this bullet work? Will the 50 Alaska. Does work? And what should the case length be? 1.92-1.94? I'm really confused and any info is greatly appreciated. 
Respectfully,
Joey

ndnchf

Case length should be 1.920". The .50 Alaskan cases have a smaller rim. Ive never used them, but other have. Is your rifle made by Uberti? If so, groove diameter is likely larger than .507". You can't go by what someone else says it should be, each rifle is different. You need to slug your barrel to find out what it is. Generally speaking, soft bullets of groove size up to .002" over work well. Even soft bullets .001" under groove size may work well with black powder. But you need to slug your barrel and go from there. Mine is .5136"  I shoot .514" and  515" bullets.
"We're all travelers in this world.  From the sweet grass to the packing house, birth till death, we travel between the eternities"  Prentiss Ritter, Broken Trail

Joey


Thank you very much Sir. I did slug the barrel and the widest spot was .514
So I ordered the 51-350CL from Tom at accuratemolds.com.  I appreciate the case length specifications. My next question is will I need the RCBS legacy 3 die set for 50-95 or will the 50 Alaskan dies work? I'm thinking I will need the 50-95 dies for sizing? Again thanks for all the tips and help.

King Medallion

King Medallion
I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken.

ndnchf

Yes, use the proper dies. I use these.
"We're all travelers in this world.  From the sweet grass to the packing house, birth till death, we travel between the eternities"  Prentiss Ritter, Broken Trail

King Medallion

Does Lee make a Factory Crimp Die for 50/95? I don't see it listed on their site.
King Medallion
I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken.

ndnchf

Don't think so. Ive found the ch4d dies to work fine.
"We're all travelers in this world.  From the sweet grass to the packing house, birth till death, we travel between the eternities"  Prentiss Ritter, Broken Trail

hpbear101

Quote from: King Medallion on January 21, 2021, 04:31:42 PM
Does Lee make a Factory Crimp Die for 50/95? I don't see it listed on their site.

A friend tried to order a set and Lee advised they don't make one for that size of cartridge. I think their web site says the will make them up to .501 diameter (S&W magnum).

Tom

ndnchf

A few years ago Bernie Rowles made me a .50-70 collet crimp die that works great.  Maybe he could make a .50-95 version? You might ask him if you feel you need it. 
"We're all travelers in this world.  From the sweet grass to the packing house, birth till death, we travel between the eternities"  Prentiss Ritter, Broken Trail

King Medallion

Not that I really NEED it, I just like to bullet seat and crimp in 2 steps. Just my preference.
King Medallion
I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken.

greyhawk

Quote from: King Medallion on January 22, 2021, 08:11:34 AM
Not that I really NEED it, I just like to bullet seat and crimp in 2 steps. Just my preference.

I do it that way with the normal dies

hpbear101

Quote from: Joey on January 18, 2021, 09:41:10 PM
Please forgive my ignorance. And also it's great to be a part of this great page and to be amongst all the vast knowledge here. So I am extremely new at reloading 50-95 express. So new that I have not done it yet . I have reloaded 45 colt and 45 ACP for about a year and love it. Anyhow back to the subject. I found some 50 Alaska brass at Wild West Guns (store) in Alaska, I bought that and a set of 50 Alaskan 3 die set made by hornady. Got an RCBS case trimmer bought the appropriate shell holder. Found some 50 caliber cast bullets 450 grain, diameter is .512. I'm trying to figure out what the case length of the 50 Alaskan brass needs to be? I have a 28 inch barrel Stoger 1876 made in 2019. Tried to call Uberti and couldn't get anyone. Called Cimmaron and they told me the bore diameter of the rifle is .507 from the bottom of the grooves.  So would this bullet work? Will the 50 Alaska. Does work? And what should the case length be? 1.92-1.94? I'm really confused and any info is greatly appreciated. 
Respectfully,
Joey

Joey, I too have a Stoeger/Uberti in 50-95, unsure of production time frame as I bought it from an on line auction and have no information on it's past other than it appeared unfired. Here is what works for me.

I use RCBS 50-95 dies, Accurate 51-350 CL mold, and 50AK brass trimmed to 1.865. Lee will make a custom trim setup for this caliber but they can't/wont make a FCD over .500, the trimmer setup was inexpensive and works well. Cut your 50AK brass a little long then trim to you specified length, I didn't have to do anything else to the brass. I would recommend you make up 5 cases to try out and make sure all is well before doing the rest of them. 50Ak brass is slightly undersized at the base so after firing it will have a slight bulge forward of the rim but it doesn't cause any problems.

The original length of 1.92" was for at 300 grain bullet sitting over a compressed load of BP, then crimped over the ogive. I came up with the 1.865 case length from the following: OAL should be around 2.25" to feed through the 76, the crimp groove on the 51-350CL is .385" back from the flat nose 2.25"-.385"=1.865" it works for me, feeds fine and seems quite accurate. My bore slugs .511 and I would recommend that you check/slug your bore as you will want to be approximately .001" over your bore diameter, I size to .512". I find the 51-350CL works fine for smokeless but really doesn't hold enough lube for BP. If I were going to shoot strictly BP I would recommend looking at some different molds. I also have a Rapine 300 grain mold, as well as a RCBS mold for my 50-100-450 that throws a 450 grain bullet that seems slightly more accurate for the twist rate in the Uberti. However, I'm kind of old school and not too sure a steady diet of 450 grain bullets is all that good even in a modern 76 so I stick with primarily the 350 grain and some 300 grain, YMMV just my opinion.

Good luck with the project, the 76 in 50-95 (or any CAL for that matter) is quite a treat to own/shoot.

Tom

DTS

Quote from: ndnchf on December 31, 2020, 11:02:53 AM
I've bought pre-alloyed lead when I see it at a good price. But more often, I mix my own. 30 minutes ago I finished a 30-1 alloy casting session using an antique .38 S&W mold and a Rapine 515350.  This batch was made from 6lbs of WW, 6lbs pure lead and 6.2oz of tin. That comes out to about 30-1. Ive seen no real difference between 20-1 and 30-1 in my rifle.

Exactly. At the low velocities of these rounds, quite soft bullets can often be found to be the most accurate as their "obturation" reaction to the expanding powder gasses continues up the bore.
30:1, even 40:1 should give as good or maybe better results.
I have mixed Cdn. WW (crimp-on lead alloy) with pure lead, 50:50 for a brinel maybe 7 or 8 & got excellent accuracy right up to 2,000fps - in a .50 Alaskan. That was a plain based bullet, shielded by
a 1/10" card wad. Oh yeah - an 1,800fps load with those, went into just under MOA at 200yards from the rolling block.
Just saying, softer alloys should be tried.
DTS

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