Taylor's 1860 Army review

[will52100]

A buddy of mine is head over heels in black powder, just starting out.  He asked for a recommendation for where to get a cap and ball 1860.  I suggested Taylor's from everything I've heard about them.

He came over yesterday and I was expecting to have to do a little light tuning to it like I've had to do to every cap and ball revolver I've ever owned.  Well, out of the box it was beautiful, nice case colors, good finish, excellent action that felt a lot like my second gen colt.  In other words good to go rite out of the box.  Only thing he did was clean it after receiving it.

On to the range and 3-4 cylinders he put it on paper.  Load was aprox. 28 grains 3F Graf's, swaged round ball.  He's not into casting yet, but I'm making progress.  Anyway, 6 shots, all bull's eye, 1 1/2" wide x 2" tall group at 15 yards off hand.  Several more cylinder fulls at the same target pretty much eat the center out of it.  Of course he was aiming at the bottom of the target.  Not bad at all for a bone stock out of the box revolver.

I need another cap and ball revolver like I need a hole in the head, but when I do get another I know where I'll be getting it.

[pakm]

I picked up a 7.5-8 inch taylors (in .44, which is a .452 round ball) with full fluted cylinders and it too was good right out of the box. very accurate.  but it's good for only about three cylinder loads(18 shots) before the cylinder binds on the dirt on cylinder pin(that ain't right but I calls them like I sees them), but I like it. but be very careful about how you wash it afterward. I put mine in the sink and with just a litttle water poured liquid soap on it. the liquid took the bluing(charcol blue) right off.  now my gun is personalized(gold and blue). but I still loved it.

[will52100]

Not sure why your having issues after only 3 cylinder fulls, normally I can run through a dozen or so with out issue. 

One thing to check is the step down on the cylinder arbor in front of the cylinder face.  If it's protruding past the face of the cylinder take a needle file and lightly relieve it.  If it is protruding you should have a bit of flame cutting there as well.  What it does is helps deflect fouling from between the arbor and cylinder.  Had a walker that was like that and it wouldn't go a complete cylinder full without fouling to a stop.  Finally noticed the step down and the flame cut was just back about a 1/16" from the step, a little work with a file and it'll run all day as long as I use plenty of lube over the balls.

Also if your not doing it, I highly recommend a dab of crisco on top of the balls before shooting.  Not to prevent chain fires, which is virtually impossible from the front unless your using the wrong sized balls or have a chamber issue, but to keep fouling soft and keep the arbor lubed.  Also lubing the arbor with a stiff grease like bore butter or tallow helps.  Those felt wads are OK, but don't contain nearly enough lube to keep a BP gun running.

[pakm]

well, this is four years late but maybe you'll get it some day! I was able to shoot my two tone 1860 over 70 shots the other day. I use 30 gr's of 2Fg blk powder(this gun doesn't seem to like 3Fg powder). put a felt wad in and a dab of grease on top of the wad. then I camber the front of the cylinder to wedge the whole ball into the cylinder,(no cresco on top of the ball.) the barrel stays clean with BP or triple 7 very easy clean up. mostly clean up the nipples(the caps are not suppose to be corrosive but they are.) these loads are quite accurate in this gun.(I shoot plate racks which are 6-8inch steel plates at 10 yards) I hit all six with 6 shots 6 times in a row! with out cleaning the 1860.