Breaking in a 66?

Oregon Bill · February 15, 2014, 04:23:00 PM

If a feller had a brand-dang new Yellerboy in .44 WCF in hand, what might he do to break her in and smooth her up, besides getting out and shooting her?

Blair · February 15, 2014, 04:57:32 PM

Perhaps, pulling her down and giving her a good inside and out cleaning?
My best,
Blair

Coffinmaker · February 16, 2014, 01:13:12 PM

There isn't any real "breaking in" with a '66. Brass gun (gunmetal actually) well machined, it's all ready smooth. The stiffness comes from springs better suited to a dump truck. Those heavy springs will also cause premature wear of internal parts. After 16+ years working on these rifles! the absolute flirst thing to do is a complete teardown and clean the casting sand and machine swarf out. Get the magazine plug out and clean the rust out of the mag tube and lube the mag tube with Boeshield T-9. (Right on with the Dustin & cleaning Blair). Then get the stock springs out of the gun. I'd recommend Slixsprings (Longhunter shooting supply) for the lever side springs and "The Smith Shop" for a lighter main spring.
I haven't looked at a recent manufacture '66 but the loading gate from the factory is/was crap. Get an aftermarket ladle (loading gate) from VTI Gunparts.

Coffinmaker

Cliff Fendley · February 16, 2014, 02:21:21 PM

The loading gates on the new ones are still crap, or at least they were up to a year ago. Either solder a little gusset on the back of the tab on the loading gate or buy the upgraded one from VTI.

As the others have said, a complete tear down and good cleaning is in order. The uberti guns, especially the brass frames are always full of mill shavings.

Oregon Bill · February 16, 2014, 05:54:35 PM

Gracias for the advice boys. Guess I better learn how this baby comes apart ...

Mean Bob Mean · February 16, 2014, 06:07:45 PM

Quote from: Cliff Fendley on February 16, 2014, 02:21:21 PM
The loading gates on the new ones are still crap, or at least they were up to a year ago. Either solder a little gusset on the back of the tab on the loading gate or buy the upgraded one from VTI.

Is this true for the 1873s as well??

Major 2 · February 16, 2014, 06:52:19 PM

I've not heard of the 73 gate failing.

Blair · February 16, 2014, 07:45:28 PM

I have not heard of the gate failing on the '66's either.
There does seen to be an issue with the .38/.357 in both the '66 and 73's, based on my experience only.
My best,
Blair

Mean Bob Mean · February 16, 2014, 09:00:57 PM

Thank you Major and Blair,

The depth of experience is a great panic eraser to the uninitiated such as myself.

Mean Bob

Cliff Fendley · February 17, 2014, 09:09:45 AM

The 73 is different so no worries. I've seen the 66 loading gate tabs fail. I was aware of the problem so I've corrected my own guns before it ever became an issue. It's probably not top priority but something to think about correcting it before putting a lot of rounds through it. Might save some aggravation.

Mean Bob Mean · February 17, 2014, 03:14:52 PM

Quote from: Cliff Fendley on February 17, 2014, 09:09:45 AM
The 73 is different so no worries. I've seen the 66 loading gate tabs fail. I was aware of the problem so I've corrected my own guns before it ever became an issue. It's probably not top priority but something to think about correcting it before putting a lot of rounds through it. Might save some aggravation.

Surely there are other issues for brand new 1873s from Uberti though?

Coffinmaker · February 17, 2014, 07:24:54 PM

Well ...... Of course there are

. It's an Italian manufactured copy of a '73 right?? Starting at the front, the magazine comes from the factory with rust at no extra charge. The head space is probably wrong, the loading gate is too stiff, the lever side springs belong under a dump truck. The firing pin return spring is too heavy. The tip of the firing pin is the wrong shape. The firing pin extension needs fitted to the Breach Block (Bolt). The spring for the trigger block safety is too heavy. The inside of the frame need dressed so the hammer won't drag on it. The main spring belongs under a 3/4 ton Ram. Other than the fore going, there perfect

Coffinmaker

Coffinmaker · February 17, 2014, 07:29:41 PM

I almost forgot. After replacing the springs, "Positive Slam Down" needs to be added to the carrier block arm. Very important to rifles chambered for straight walled cases like .45 Colt and .44 Special.

Coffinmaker

Mean Bob Mean · February 17, 2014, 07:40:08 PM

Quote from: Coffinmaker on February 17, 2014, 07:29:41 PM
I almost forgot. After replacing the springs, "Positive Slam Down" needs to be added to the carrier block arm. Very important to rifles chambered for straight walled cases like .45 Colt and .44 Special.

Coffinmaker

What is Positive Slam Down?

Coffinmaker · February 18, 2014, 02:28:14 PM

HA!!
I knew someone would ask. Positive Slamdown is when the front face of the lever is in constant contact with the carrier block arm. Stock Uberti -- on closing the lever taps the top of the carrier block arm and starts the carrier down. The rest of the carrier travel is powered by the side spring.
Modified -- the top of the face do the carrier arm has a little button welded and then dressed to fit. I don't weld, so I drill and tap the carrier arm for a set screw which is dressed to fit. After modification, the lever stays in constant contact with the arm and "drives" the carrier down.
With spring power, if the carrier and mortise get fouled by blow-by, the carrier sticks half way down and the rifle stops. The springs aren't strong enough to push the carrier arm all the way through the "goo." Modified, the lever (your hand squeeze) powers the carrier down thru the goo (unless your a true wimp).
Once modified, the correct "fit" is when the lever seats against the lower tang, and when you grip the carrier, it just barely moves at the bottom of the mortise. Presto!! A rifle that doesn't jam in the middle of a match

Coffinmaker

PS: I commented earlier on what needs looked at on the Uberti '73 rifle. The same things need to be addressed in the '66. Understand, the guns will work right out of the box. With the right attention, both will become incredibly user friendly.

Mean Bob Mean · February 18, 2014, 02:35:16 PM

Quote from: Coffinmaker on February 18, 2014, 02:28:14 PM
HA!!
I knew someone would ask. With the right attention, both will become incredibly user friendly.

Do you feel comfortable saying what the ballpark cost would be to have this work, and the aforementioned work (sans cleaning), done by a competent smith?

Thanks for all your help,

Bob

Coffinmaker · February 19, 2014, 10:43:39 PM

Why yes I do. Before I retired, I called that much work to be a a complete action job & tuneup. I charged $175 for the work. Today I'd probably charge between the 175 and 200. I didn't replace the springs though. I tuned the springs that came with the gun, with the exception of the trigger block safety spring. That sucker is a nuisance so I replaced it.

Coffinmaker

Mean Bob Mean · February 20, 2014, 07:26:47 AM

Quote from: Coffinmaker on February 19, 2014, 10:43:39 PM
Why yes I do. Before I retired, I called that much work to be a a complete action job & tuneup. I charged $175 for the work. Today I'd probably charge between the 175 and 200. I didn't replace the springs though. I tuned the springs that came with the gun, with the exception of the trigger block safety spring. That sucker is a nuisance so I replaced it.

Coffinmaker

Obliged

Oregon Bill · February 21, 2014, 12:41:07 PM

Wow! Mebbe I'd best just look at mine and not risk shootin' her ...

Driftwood Johnson · February 21, 2014, 05:54:41 PM

QuoteThere isn't any real "breaking in" with a '66. Brass gun (gunmetal actually) well machined, it's all ready smooth. The stiffness comes from springs better suited to a dump truck.

Howdy Coffinmaker

A few years ago I had the brass from an Uberti rifle chemically analyzed. Turns out it was brass, not bronze. The old 'gunmetal' used in the original Henry and 1866 rifles was a type of bronze because when chemically analyzed it consisted of an alloy of copper and tin. When I had some metal from a current Uberti rifle analyzed, the results came back copper and zinc, no tin at all. I don't remember the exact ratio, but today's guns are being made of brass, not the old bronze gunmetal.