Belgian Centaur with Thuer Conversion

Hoof Hearted · January 13, 2014, 06:59:15 PM

Lefty Dude,

This was worth the work!

Early Belgian Centaur sporting a NEW IMPROVED Thuer®

This revolver also received a "factory" type bluing to set off the skill and craftsmanship of the Belgian workers!

Enjoy these closeups................

Lefty Dude · January 13, 2014, 11:11:40 PM

Very nice work, indeed.

Long Johns Wolf · January 14, 2014, 02:27:05 AM

Very nice HH, very nice.
This makes this the 2nd Centaure known to be converted to the Thuer System.
What is the serial number of this beauty and how did you make the cartridges?
Long Johns Wolf

Hoof Hearted · January 14, 2014, 08:21:06 AM

Quote from: Lefty Dude on January 13, 2014, 11:11:40 PM
Very nice work, indeed.

Thanks!
Was a pleasure doing work for you.........

Hoof Hearted · January 14, 2014, 08:25:23 AM

Quote from: Long Johns Wolf on January 14, 2014, 02:27:05 AM
Very nice HH, very nice.
This makes this the 2nd Centaure known to be converted to the Thuer System.
What is the serial number of this beauty and how did you make the cartridges?
Long Johns Wolf

LJW
This is a "NEW IMPROVED Thuer®" utilizing rear loading cartridges. The Army model is available in 45 Schofield (like this one) and 44 Colt Heel Base (a bit more tradtional).

I'll let Lefty post the serial number.

Regards, HH

Lefty Dude · January 14, 2014, 11:03:34 AM

LJW;

The SN of this piece is C 215.
I bought this piece in Sun City West, Arizona at a Garage Sale. The Widow was selling her Husbands Fire Arms. A shooting CAS/SASS Pard of mine and I were assisting her that day. At the end of the day only a few pieces were left, and the Belgium was one of them. I thought at the time it was an early Italian copy. I bought it for a very reasonable sum, under $100.00. The piece was on my work bench for several Weeks, when I decided to look the piece over. That is when I found the "Made in Belgium" on the butt. I decided early on that it would be converted to cartridge at some point in time.
The time was right when Gary announced his New Modern Thuer conversion modification system here.
I will be shooting 45 Schofield's loaded with a 200 gr.RNFP and APP or the Holy Black.
A note of interest, The previous owner was from Chicago, Ill., and this piece was unfired when I bought it.

Long Johns Wolf · January 14, 2014, 11:14:23 AM

She is a 1960 made Centaure Civilian 1st variation, Lefty Dude.
My congrats! See more about the Centaures over at www.1960nma.org.
Long Johns Wolf

Lucky R. K. · January 15, 2014, 04:02:50 PM

Hey Lefty,

I have SN F 144. My wife's cousin picked it up for me at a garage sale in Pittsburg back in the 1980's. It had a shoulder stock with it but its serial number, (F 186), is not the same as the pistol.

The old girl showed some wear when I got her and I still shoot her occasionally. I have not shot her in a CAS match because she is very prone to cap jams, even after tuning her up with Pettifogger's tips.

Lucky

Blair · January 15, 2014, 04:38:46 PM

Lucky,

Looks pretty good to me!

Often, two revolver were issued with only one shoulder stock. Only one revolver may have a matching SS# to the stock
My best,
Blair

Lefty Dude · January 15, 2014, 08:00:21 PM

Nice piece, Lucky. Mine has never been used for CAS/SASS. Now that it a cartridge piece I may shoot it in the Frontier Cartridge class a time or two.
I am a 44 shooter, and only have one 45 Colt a Cimarron 5 1/2", and now this conversion 45 Schofield. I'll shoot the Schofield's in both piece's.
I shoot Frontiersman so I have my 1860 holsters, belt & such.

Long Johns Wolf · January 16, 2014, 04:37:17 AM

Lucky & all: #F144 is a pretty Centaure Cavalry 1st variation 2nd sub-variation from 1961. The flat pair of 4th screws is typical for this variant. As opposed to the Cavalry 1st variation 1st sub-variation with the "long" pair of 4th screws your variant was usually not sold with a shoulder stock. This would explain the not matching S/N #F186 of the stock.
If you need background info visit www.1960nma.org or send me a PM.
Long Johns Wolf

Hoof Hearted · January 16, 2014, 08:00:59 AM

Lucky

I have a Thuer® conversion ready and waiting to be installed in that Centaur. Just give me a shout

HH

Lucky R. K. · January 17, 2014, 09:44:01 AM

Quote from: Long Johns Wolf on January 16, 2014, 04:37:17 AM
Lucky & all: #F144 is a pretty Centaure Cavalry 1st variation 2nd sub-variation from 1961. The flat pair of 4th screws is typical for this variant. As opposed to the Cavalry 1st variation 1st sub-variation with the "long" pair of 4th screws your variant was usually not sold with a shoulder stock. This would explain the not matching S/N #F186 of the stock.
If you need background info visit www.1960nma.org or send me a PM.
Long Johns Wolf

Thanks for the information, I appreciate it. I have visited the website and at one time sent them a picture of this pistol.

The gun does have the "long" pair of 4th screws you mentioned but I have made a pair that do not "stick up" which makes it easier for me to grip the gun.

Again, thanks for the information.

Lucky

Hoof Hearted · January 17, 2014, 09:54:05 AM

OK

So..........back to the subject of this post

Lefty, your package left TEXAS Wednesday and I bet you see it before the weekend!
Please post your thoughts and maybe a range report when you receive it.

Regards, HH

Lucky R. K. · January 17, 2014, 09:54:17 AM

Quote from: Hoof Hearted on January 16, 2014, 08:00:59 AM
Lucky

I have a Thuer® conversion ready and waiting to be installed in that Centaur. Just give me a shout

HH

Thanks for the offer Hoof but I mostly shoot Frontiersman and just don't shoot the open tops that much. My Old Armies and 1858's have spoiled me by making it so easy to load the cylinders out of the gun.

Looks like you guys are making a quality product and I am sure you will sell a bunch of them.

Lucky

Thumper · January 17, 2014, 10:30:11 AM

HH, would you mind sharing the way you filled the slot in the hammer face?

Lefty Dude · January 17, 2014, 11:47:24 AM

If I may, HH;

When I got the piece it had the original Centaur cones in place. We found that the originals were long, and if a cap was attached the cylinder would not rotate. I have no idea what they used for caps in Belgium in the late 1950's. None of the modern caps would give enough clearance.
I then ask Pettifogger to look at the piece, I shoot with him here in Arizona.
It was decided that ROA Tresco nipples would be a viable replacement. They are shorter than the Uberti or Pietta's. The threads were different, so a proper size tap was used to chase out the holes to accept the Tresco's. Now the hammer face was short.
Pettifogger soldered a new face plate on the Hammer.
This was all done before I sent it to HH for conversion.

Hoof Hearted · January 17, 2014, 01:18:37 PM

Quote from: Lefty Dude on January 17, 2014, 11:47:24 AM
If I may, HH;

When I got the piece it had the original Centaur cones in place. We found that the originals were long, and if a cap was attached the cylinder would not rotate. I have no idea what they used for caps in Belgium in the late 1950's. None of the modern caps would give enough clearance.
I then ask Pettifogger to look at the piece, I shoot with him here in Arizona.
It was decided that ROA Tresco nipples would be a viable replacement. They are shorter than the Uberti or Pietta's. The threads were different, so a proper size tap was used to chase out the holes to accept the Tresco's. Now the hammer face was short.
Pettifogger soldered a new face plate on the Hammer.
This was all done before I sent it to HH for conversion.

Ah yes...........Pettifogger did so nice a job on the hammer that I didn't even notice it!

I just zip them up with a MIG welder, dress them back off and Kasenite harden.
Be sure you do not add any appreciable length or you can cause issues with the bolt leg not falling off the cam and the action "tying up".

HH

Thumper · January 17, 2014, 08:24:02 PM

Thanks...don't have a mig but know someone who does

Pettifogger · January 23, 2014, 09:32:15 PM

I don't have a mig or a tig anymore and since I'm retired can't justify the price of buying another one. I had a couple of local shops tig the tips of the hammer faces. The problem I was having is that they apparently weren't use to welding up small slots and the weld bridged. When I milled the faces flat I had a lot of pits and sometimes fairly large holes. So, I just started soldering on hard faces to the hammers. Lately I have been using a mill to bore a flat bottom hole in the hammer face and soldering in a piece of round drill rod into the hammer face and then milling everything flat. Welding would be easier, but necessity is the mother of invention.

Found a couple of photos. First picture shows the hole bored. It is bored on the center line of the nipple. The second photo shows the drill rod inserted and milled flat. The insert extends slightly below the old bottom of the hammer. This way it fully seals the cap to the back of the nipple. Since I done a few with the inserts, they are reliable enough that I seldom install cap guards anymore.